Split washer removal

[saminmn]

In doing my a first set of alignments and adjustments on my used model 500, I noticed that anti-kickback pawl on the right side is not being held in place by the torsion spring. I would like to remove the spring and see if needs replacing. In order to do this I need to remove the split washer, part 513524. Is there a secret to this? BTW I think it probably would work, as gravity pulls it into position, but do not want to rely on that.

[reible]

Hi,

Is this what you are seeing?

[ATTACH]17168[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]17169[/ATTACH]

If so then I have to say I've never attempted to take one of these apart. Don't want to try taking mine apart either.

I don't want to guess either so lets wait and see if someone experienced with this chimes in.

Ed

[beeg]

Hi,

Is this what you are seeing?

[ATTACH]17168[/ATTACH]

Ed

I'd say squeeze the top legs together to remove. Then buy a new replacement.

[saminmn]

Yes, that's the bugger. I tried spreading the gap and pushing off with a hammer tap to a screwdriver against the open end. My one attemp a using pliers on the on the opposite sid of the pin being held did not yield anything except that it was hard to get ahold of it very well.

I don't think I can get a good picture of the spring, but it seems to be pinched against the pin being held by the split washer. I will give it another go in the morning. I will plan on replacing the spring apnd the split wasaher unless I have better luck than today.

Thanks!

[dusty]

I would rethink this. Is it really worth it?

[saminmn]

Well that is the thing. As a newbe, I do not know how much it matters whether the anti-kickback pawl is being held down on workpiece. Or did you mean I should replace the entire upper guard?

[dusty]

Well that is the thing. As a newbe, I do not know how much it matters whether the anti-kickback pawl is being held down on workpiece. Or did you mean I should replace the entire upper guard?

I do not have this sort of guard so I do not speak with experience but:

If the images posted by reible are representative of your guard AND the spring is in place, you should be able to determine if spring action keeps the pawl in place. If it does, I don't believe you need to replace anything.

Does yours look exactly like the images posted in this thread? You state that the pawl on the right hand side is not being held in place. Are the two pawls completely separate devices - each with their own spring? Does the other pawl seem to operate as you think it should?

More questions than answers - I know.

After studying the pictures some more, I have another question. If you drove the pin out, would that not release all the tension on the spring and allow you to adequately inspect the spring?

Incidently, the upper saw guard on the 510 does not employ a spring on the pawls. Gravity does all the work BUT the pawls are shaped a bit different so that may not mean anything.

[saminmn]

I have been struggling a little, but here are pictures of the problem. First picture is shows the pawl up against the spring. When the saw guard is in its normal upright position the pawl is about resting on the roll pin.[ATTACH]17180[/ATTACH]
the second picture [ATTACH]17181[/ATTACH]
shows the problem as good as I can get it. One can see the spring for the other pawl has 3 winds visible, but there are only 2 winds visible for the problem side. I think the third winging is trapped under the other windings between the pawl and the shank the pin goes through.

In the third & fourth pictures one can see the the spring is not pressing on the pawl when it is against the roll pin.[ATTACH]17182[/ATTACH][ATTACH]17183[/ATTACH]

[beeg]

Can ya tap the pin down to give clearance to give the pawl ONE additional twist?

[saminmn]

Without removing the pin, I have tried backing the spring around and it will only go about half to two thirds of the way towad an additional loop.