Shopsmith Forums

Anyone here have one of these that you have adapted to work on the SS? If so what did you replace the miter bar with to fit the SS miter slot?

Thanks
Jack

I have one and it fits fine in both my 510 Shopsmiths with no miter bar mods. It also work very well cutting thin strips.

Brent

I have one and it fits fine in both my 510 Shopsmiths with no miter bar mods. It also work very well cutting thin strips.

Brent

Hi Jack;

I have one of these...have only used it a couple of times, but it worked well. The bar that fits in the miter slot expands as you tighten down the knob to set the width of the strip. No problem getting it snug in the slot on my 500 table. Works just like the SS featherboards.

I have also tried ripping uniform thickness strips by turning a SS featherboard around and using the rounded ends (opposite the feathers) as a guide sort of like the roller guide on the Rockler jig. That works, but is much more of a fussy set up than the Rockler jig.

Hope this is helpful.

Thanks guys! That settles it. The jig is $7 off so I will order today.

Jack

I'm curious... why would this method be preferable to just putting the fence close to the blade and cutting the thin strip between the blade and fence? It seems to me that repeatable cuts would be easier that way as the setup would remain constant. Using that jig, you'd have to move the fence for each strip.

heathicus wrote:I'm curious... why would this method be preferable to just putting the fence close to the blade and cutting the thin strip between the blade and fence? It seems to me that repeatable cuts would be easier that way as the setup would remain constant. Using that jig, you'd have to move the fence for each strip.

The value is a safety issue. The thin cut off is NOT between the fence and the blade. Thin (light weight) cut offs that are between the fence and the blade are OFTEN shoot out like a kickback.

With this jig, you would have to relocate the fence for every cut but the jig remains in place (at the desired thickness) and provides a very repeatable cut.

What dusty said. Not to mention the fact the the piece can ride up on the blade and feather boards and push sticks just won't get the job done safely. I've had exactly one close call and no longer cut thin strips close to the fence. I have suspended cutting thin strip on the table saw until I address the safety concerns.

There are only 2 approaches I would use to cut thin strip now. Grrrriper or a jig similar to this.

If you think a jig or safety equipment is expensive, just price out an ER visit for any number of injuries.

Would not a push block (not a stick - a block that has a lip on the back end to keep pushing the stock forward like this one), and standing out of the "line of fire" address those safety concerns?

I use a push block for almost everything I push through the table saw, and I never stand in line with the blade or the stock going through it if at all possible.

I'm not challenging anybody. I'm just trying to learn and understand.

heathicus wrote:Would not a push block (not a stick - a block that has a lip on the back end to keep pushing the stock forward like this one), and standing out of the "line of fire" address those safety concerns?

I use a push block for almost everything I push through the table saw, and I never stand in line with the blade or the stock going through it if at all possible.

I'm not challenging anybody. I'm just trying to learn and understand.

The push stick/block definitely helps, but when you are cutting really thin strips on the side of the blade opposite the fence, the strip can fall away from the blade without binding against anything. It greatly reduces the chance of kick-back (from the strip) and as an added bonus, there is less chance of burning from contacting the trailing edge of the blade.
Also, there is less chance for the unsupported thin strip from bouncing around and getting dinged up by the trailing edge of the blade.