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Bevel advise wanted
Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 5:04 pm
by saminmn
I have a need to bevel or miter as indicated in photos:
[ATTACH]18089[/ATTACH][ATTACH]18090[/ATTACH]
the 2x4s are not yet attached to each other, but they will be. The board needing the bevel has been cut to match the other at about 5". When I cut the boards, I had not determined the needed bevel angle. Can I safely make this cut or do I need to start over with longer piece of 2x4?
Also, in the second pic one can see saw marks on end grain where the cut was complete (an ark). The opposite face of the crosscut(not in picture) is clean. I am guessing this is telling me I am not quite square on the miter alignment.
Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 5:49 pm
by greitz
If I'm understanding this correctly, the board which needs to be cut is 5" long? If so, I'd stand it on end (as pictured) and cut it on the bandsaw.
Gary
Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 6:16 pm
by saminmn
Yea, it would be a good excuse to find out how well BS works;)
Not sure though. It happens I had been reading yesterday about BS alignment, blade changing, etc. in the SS BS manual. Had not thought about getting feet wet on this. Still, it should be safer on BS. I guess I will run some scrap 2x4 through on edge and see what it feels like:D I have never used a band saw before!
Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 6:52 pm
by JPG
FWIW, the bandsaw table does 'tilt'.
Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 7:11 pm
by saminmn
[quote="JPG40504"]FWIW, the bandsaw table does 'tilt'.]
And the advantage here would be that I could set up a fence instead of working freehand??
Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 7:57 pm
by greitz
Good point, JPG!
Sam, how accurate does the cut need to be, and does it need to be "glue quality"? The bandsaw will likely leave a less-than-perfectly-smooth surface, even using a fence which is perfectly adjusted for blade drift. If you're going to sand anyway, just freehand cut close to the line, then sand to the line with a disk or belt sander.
(And if you're going to sand anyway, you could use a hand saw for the cut, and save setting up the bandsaw for another project.)
Gary
Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 8:23 pm
by saminmn
greitz wrote:Good point, JPG!
Sam, how accurate does the cut need to be, and does it need to be "glue quality"? The bandsaw will likely leave a less-than-perfectly-smooth surface, even using a fence which is perfectly adjusted for blade drift. If you're going to sand anyway, just freehand cut close to the line, then sand to the line with a disk or belt sander.
(And if you're going to sand anyway, you could use a hand saw for the cut, and save setting up the bandsaw for another project.)
Gary
Glue quality is a requirement. But, I am needing to do simple tasks like this just to be "doing" with my new toys.
I will plan to sand flat. I am going to mount an axle in the block and I need the angle to get the axle to horizontal - thickness of the block is not crucial, so if I butcher the cut, I will sand a little more. (If I had my jointer checked out and upgraded guard in place, I could flatten boards there.
) gotta start somewhere:D
Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 8:50 pm
by greitz
Check the "safety rules" for the jointer also before using it, I think they recommend a minimum 12" length there also.
Gary
Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:38 pm
by SDSSmith
If you don't mind a little dust, you can also do it with the disc sander (conical would be better). And at 5" long, you could also use your belt sander.
Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 12:09 am
by saminmn
greitz wrote:Check the "safety rules" for the jointer also before using it, I think they recommend a minimum 12" length there also.
Gary
Good point. I am planning to grind it off to flat with disk sander and a course grit paper anyway. Just wishing I had skills with all my tools at once:)
But if I had some knowledge/experience with my Belt Sander....