Shopsmith Forums

I finally set up my Shopsmith sharpening guide (acquired about a year ago) and decided to try it out. I had set it up with the intention of sharpening my bench chisels, but they are too short to work with this guide. So I sharpened a few of my old lathe chisels. Then I decided to set aside my trepidation and actually use them now that they were sharp.

I had never used the lathe before. It always sort of terrified me. Now, I don't know what I was so scared of! And what fun! My stock was a piece of cedar about 2"x2"x10" that I knocked the corners off with the band saw to make it octagonal. I used a spur drive center and a live center.

I didn't make anything in particular. Just rounded the stock and tried out the different chisels making random lines and "hills" and "valleys" (beads and coves?) But it really was a lot of fun and I can see why it is addicting!

One question, though... Where do you typically focus your eyes while you're turning? I tend to focus them on the opposite side of the spindle from the chisel so I can see the effect of the cut.

heathicus wrote:Just rounded the stock and tried out the different chisels making random lines and "hills" and "valleys" (beads and coves?) But it really was a lot of fun and I can see why it is addicting!

One question, though... Where do you typically focus your eyes while you're turning? I tend to focus them on the opposite side of the spindle from the chisel so I can see the effect of the cut.

That's exactly what ya should have done. Just play around and cut beads and cove till it's second nature. Also you should be looking where ya were. At the top. Here's a site where ya can find a local turning club where ya can learn more.

http://www.woodturner.org/community/cha ... apters.asp

I do the same as you do. Look at the work as you engage the tool. after the tool is cutting you can shift your focus to the rear of the turning to watch the shape. This will become automatic as you gain experience but I would focus on the tool and the contact at the cutting point for now. Tool control becomes better with experience.
Sometimes when doing lathe work I put a contrasting medium below the work to be able to see things better. A dark background for light colored woods and a light background for dark woods.
Bill V

I typically focus on the profile (top edge of the turning). Do remember to occasionaly glance at the tool rest and verify the following.

Distance of tool rest to work. This is VERY important, the closer the tool rest is to the work, the better result you will get and the safer you will be. As the spindle reduces in size, you need to adjust the distance of the tool rest to the work. I try to stay within 1/2" Anymore than that and you're introducing tool chatter and an opening large enough for a finger to get pinched. Bowls and hoolow form are the exception here, do take light cuts when the edge of the tool is extended past the tool rest and DO pay attention to where your fingers are.

Check tool position and angles (although once you get a feel for optimal cutting, this becomes less important.)

Soft woods are great for learning on. If you can successfully turn pine, fir, or cedar without catches and tear out (fuzzies), you're well on your way to successful turnings of other materials.

Last but not least, don't fear the skew, learn to use it properly. You will save a lot of money on abrasives. Although there are times when the 80 grit skew is your best option.

I too was using the "chisel shortening guide" --oops -- I mean "chisel sharpening guide" this weekend (on the belt sander).

I have a love hate relationship with the sharpening guide. I find it works quite well for the skew and parting tool and even the round nose scraper. However, I can't for the life of me get the hang of it for the two gouges. Can't quite get enough rotation to get a smooth, conisistent bevel all the way around.