Shopsmith Forums

My shop is still in an unusable state and I needed to borrow my father-in-law's crummy tiny tables to rip some boards. Not real long, about 3' to 4' or so. He has no outfeed support and I was by myself. The method I used was to stand beside the table to get the rip started. Then moved around behind the table to pull the boards on through.

I've read that you should NOT do this, but I don't understand why. I become the outfeed support and remain in control of the board. I can manually pull the boards apart so they don't pinch the back of the blade. Any kickback would throw the board away from me. And I don't have to reach over the blade and try to control a board that is trying to teeter-totter.

It is definitely not something I'd want to do on a regular basis - I value my outfeed table. But in a pinch, what is the real problem with doing this?

If it should ever bind and try to kick back, are you quick enough to let go?

heathicus wrote:My shop is still in an unusable state and I needed to borrow my father-in-law's crummy tiny tables to rip some boards. Not real long, about 3' to 4' or so. He has no outfeed support and I was by myself. The method I used was to stand beside the table to get the rip started. Then moved around behind the table to pull the boards on through.

I've read that you should NOT do this, but I don't understand why. I become the outfeed support and remain in control of the board. I can manually pull the boards apart so they don't pinch the back of the blade. Any kickback would throw the board away from me. And I don't have to reach over the blade and try to control a board that is trying to teeter-totter.

It is definitely not something I'd want to do on a regular basis - I value my outfeed table. But in a pinch, what is the real problem with doing this?

I do that quite a lot Heath. Never had a problem. It's about understanding what can go wrong and either a) avoiding it or b) being prepared for it. I personally prefer a.
Of course the alternative is to cut half way, end for end the board and cut the other half.

Paul M

It's the "move around" with a board inserted into a spinning sawblade that I find less than wonderfull.

I don't think you're in any danger of getting pulled into the blade from the backside of the table (I've watched wood go flying, you won't be hanging onto it). I do think there is danger is the transition.

heathicus wrote:My shop is still in an unusable state and I needed to borrow my father-in-law's crummy tiny tables to rip some boards. Not real long, about 3' to 4' or so. He has no outfeed support and I was by myself. The method I used was to stand beside the table to get the rip started. Then moved around behind the table to pull the boards on through.

I've read that you should NOT do this, but I don't understand why. I become the outfeed support and remain in control of the board. I can manually pull the boards apart so they don't pinch the back of the blade. Any kickback would throw the board away from me. And I don't have to reach over the blade and try to control a board that is trying to teeter-totter.

It is definitely not something I'd want to do on a regular basis - I value my outfeed table. But in a pinch, what is the real problem with doing this?

I might have done this when I was young and fleet afoot but no more. I don't move around so well anymore; therefore, this sort of foot work maneuver is out of the question.

Remember, all you want from an outfeed table is support for the stock as it comes off the table. Most anything works well, even a stack of boxes.

I do this all the time. Especially ripping 12 foot long laminate for a countertop. Never had an issue and any binding has been managable. I actually feel safer on that side of the saw. It's a 3hp larger saw so there is heft to the machine and a large table surface.

Yep... Done it a thousand times.
Planning it out of the new shop though but more for convenience than from any real concerns.
About all of us can find things we can do to improve how we do things to be safer in all kinds of things. As I age I keep asking myself as I work (or drive) "Is there anything I should be doing differently?" I am still quite strong (but with less long term stamina) but I am a bit less strong than I was say 10 years ago. That calls for minor adjustments. I also find that I am a bit less able to multitask and feel that I need to be more cautious in circumstances such as driving with a car full of chatting people. I find that I am more easily distracted.


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When doing this, do you (need to) use a feather board to keep the infeed side against the fence?

I've set the saw up just as if I was on the push side. Normally I start the cut pushing, feed it until the out feed is past a manageable point..say 2 feet or so. Then I move to the pull side. Now, I do have a series of tables that a 12 foot long piece of laminate passes over to support it. I have just created a sort of walkway between the supports that I walk backwards through. As you can imagine, being many feet away from the saw there is a tendency for the cut to waver but I account for that and leave myself material to trim flush.

I've done this a time or two also. But, I agree with Foxtrapper. It is that transition time you stop pushing from the feed side and transition to the back to finish the cut. If anything is going to go wrong that would probably be the most critical time it would happen while the blade is spinning.

A second person when doing this type of procedure (when somebody is available) would be the best way to go. When I was in the business of building decks with a friend, we would work together when ripping long material on the tablesaw. However when I am by myself at home and I do not take the time to set up the table extension, I will othen use a couple of roller stands to support my work piece on the outfeed side.