Shopsmith Forums

I got some new lumber to start a few projects for x-mas. Planed down to my desired thickness and the went to joint one side of each board before moving to the tablesaw tonight. I have been running sheetmetal through lockforming machines for 30 years on and off, pressure-smooth-consistant, and a nice seam or lock. Jointing, I get a few that look great and would glue up well and then I get a few I could pass through all afternoon and plane a 6" board down to an inch probably trying to get a "wave" out of it. There is a mysterious gremlin who pushes down somewhere on somethin' and can ruin an edge just like that. I keep wondering, as this is the only jointer I've ever used, is this the way they all are? I won't get a dedicated jointer, but for pete's sake....
I have no extended fences or feather boards and mine does not have the upgraded swingy fence thingy. I would think I could use this tool right out of the box for its intended use without add-ons, but apparently I'm lacking sufficient technique to support this thought. It's crazy but if I run a board through and get it, it's awesome. If I screw up the first pass....then I'm just chasin my ass..
Anyone have tips and techniques or videos or wanna come by my house tonight.
Thats what we need, a travleling SS instructor/repairman that works for milk and cookies and lives reeeal close

You might want to try squaring the stock first on the table saw and then taking a very light cut to eliminate the saw marks with the jointer. That way, you're starting with a straight edge and only have to keep it that way. The small size of the Shopsmith jointer makes is tough sometimes to straighten an irregular edge.

Here are instructions from Shopsmith on using the jointer -- http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/jointers/020303.pdf

When you hold the wood down on the bed which bed are you holding it down on, Infeed or outfeed?

Infeed side of the wood has the waves, warps and things you are trying to joint out.

Start the wood throught jointer and minute you get enough wood over the out feed table shift your downward pressure to that bed.

If you maintain pressure on the infeed table side you will end up with waves and such.

I almost made myself crazy before I learned this when I first used a jointer. I kept the infeed side tight against my table and didn't concern myself with the outfeed (much like a table saw) and I ended up with boards that had wave and warps nearly the same as before I jointed them on now the wave and warp was slightly offset from it's orignal position.

The jointer is not like that seam machine. Only the 'operator' controls the procedure.

The first step is to determine what part of the edge requires 'modification'. If the center is bowed out, that section requires removal first. If bowed in, the ends require removal first.

Realize that the infeed table provides an incoming 'angle of attack', and the outfeed table provides a reference exit direction. Should the angles change mid pass, the edge will never be straight.

Once the bow is 'minimized', a firm pressure against the infeed table is needed until sufficient new surface is over the outfeed table to allow transfering the hold down effort to that end.

Yes there is some technique involved and some practice required to acquire it.

And all this time I thought I was just incompetent when it came to jointer operations. It turns out, I'm just ignorant and too inconsistent to pick up a pattern on the boards that came out correctly.

Thanks for the great replies Ed and JPG.

HERE is a video that will help show you the in's and out's of the jointer. Charles Neil is one of the best... IMHO.

Thx for the video