I tried to post this question on Feb 1, but it apparently did not get posted. So here goes again:
When I use my new speed reducer (Mark V) in roughing out irregular shaped pieces, it shakes and vibrates itself loose from the head stock. This happens every 2 or 3 minutes.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to remedy this?
Thanks.
LDLinford
Repost: Speed Reducer Disconnect
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- JPG
- Platinum Member
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Are you clamping it to the way tubes?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
You are not giving us to much to go on here.
Have you attempted to balance the piece some before mounting? Bandsaw, chainsaw, handsaw to get it to say 8 sided or rounded for a bowl?
The speed reducer is locked at the quill side and the clamp is tightened to help hold it in place on the tubes.
The more unbalanced the work piece the slower you must start, use low on the shopsmith.
Machine sitting on a flat location and off the casters?
What are you using to drive/mount the piece? Faceplate, screw, ???
Are you using the tail stock? If so make sure the headstock is locked in position, the workpiece is tight between centers and as mentioned before the clamp on the speed reducer is tight. Nothing should move.
Are you setting up for the cut by getting the tool rest up close but not touching? Roughing gouge? Height just above center. Tools sharp. Taking light cuts and having control of the cut?
Own the universal lathe tool rest?
Just how big is the piece you are working on?
Pictures can be helpful if you can provide them.
I know, not much help just a bunch of questions...
Ed
Have you attempted to balance the piece some before mounting? Bandsaw, chainsaw, handsaw to get it to say 8 sided or rounded for a bowl?
The speed reducer is locked at the quill side and the clamp is tightened to help hold it in place on the tubes.
The more unbalanced the work piece the slower you must start, use low on the shopsmith.
Machine sitting on a flat location and off the casters?
What are you using to drive/mount the piece? Faceplate, screw, ???
Are you using the tail stock? If so make sure the headstock is locked in position, the workpiece is tight between centers and as mentioned before the clamp on the speed reducer is tight. Nothing should move.
Are you setting up for the cut by getting the tool rest up close but not touching? Roughing gouge? Height just above center. Tools sharp. Taking light cuts and having control of the cut?
Own the universal lathe tool rest?
Just how big is the piece you are working on?
Pictures can be helpful if you can provide them.
I know, not much help just a bunch of questions...
Ed
- terrydowning
- Platinum Member
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What all have said so far. I put a 12" log on with the speed reducer to make it round. I ran it at the lowest speed until it was round and balanced. Very little vibration at the lowest speed. Once it was balanced, I increased the speed. In general larger pieces should be turned slower. The RPM is measured at the spindle, add 12 - 16" to that and the tip velocity gets pretty wicked.
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Terry
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1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
What SDSSmith said - - Let the speed reducer run without attachments.
I was very sensitive to vibration of the Speed reducer when using it attached to the bandsaw to reduce vibration. I found when first started up, the SR had some vibration (more like shaking). Thinking it may be caused be set in the two poly-V belts, I let it run for a while until it heated up a bit. The shaking got less as it ran. So I thin my guess was correct.
The Speed reducer has two poly-V belts that could take a set after sitting on the shelf for a long time.
Also suggest you re-read the Speed Reducer manual an make sure all parts are secured.
I was very sensitive to vibration of the Speed reducer when using it attached to the bandsaw to reduce vibration. I found when first started up, the SR had some vibration (more like shaking). Thinking it may be caused be set in the two poly-V belts, I let it run for a while until it heated up a bit. The shaking got less as it ran. So I thin my guess was correct.
The Speed reducer has two poly-V belts that could take a set after sitting on the shelf for a long time.
Also suggest you re-read the Speed Reducer manual an make sure all parts are secured.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA