Shopsmith Forums

I'm lazy, so when I was at the local Lowes branch getting some Shelac for my biplane project, I got a can of spray poly for a mallet I made over the weekend. Good choice? Why swipe if you can spray!
Pics only after the finish.

Let us know how that stuff works. I have been hesitant to try it due to the removal of the normal gasses that have been used in spray products in the past.
Am wondering if it will atomize well or if the industry is still using the flammable products for the vehicle.
Bill V

Use it all the time. Even the oil based dries well. If you get your spray technique down right, it can easily be polished out or even left as is. I use it to build up layers quickly.

I made an expandable table for our grandchildren to use when at our house. I primed the surfaces white and let theme decorate then as they pleased with colored markers. I used around 5 coats of spray poly to protect the 'artwork.'

It does protect but that many coats left a light yellow color.

It really does a fast job but don't use too many coats if color is important. Test on similar finish first.

Forrest

Spray poly was a success. I just sprayed outside over the grass, doing half at a time. I hit it a couple times with some light sanding between. I mean, its a hammer right.

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Nice mallet!

Looking at the handle wedge in the head a question occurred. What grain direction is best for a hammer handle?

I have a preconcieved notion, but wonder what y'all think?

JPG40504 wrote:What grain direction is best for a hammer handle?

I have a preconcieved notion, but wonder what y'all think?

I wood say cross grain of the handle.

Really nice job, Mr. Hart. Have one on the drawing board for a neighbor.

The problem I have with "spray" anything, if you mean rattle cans, is the outrageous price you pay per oz. If you want to spray poly, shellac or lacquer in small quantities, buy a gravity feed touch-up gun at HF for about the price of a can of spray poly and a quart of poly and some thinner. You'll get the same (or probably better) results for a lot less money.

Paul M

JPG40504 wrote:Nice mallet!

Looking at the handle wedge in the head a question occurred. What grain direction is best for a hammer handle?

I have a preconcieved notion, but wonder what y'all think?

I remember back 35 years ago when I went to the New York State Ranger School when I studied forest technology. One of things we had to bring to school was an axe. In one of the classes we had to sharpen it. We then received a grade not only on how we sharpened it but also on the geometry of the head and the grain of the handle. The head had to be convex, which I lost points as one side of my axe had a flat spot - there was no way to add metal to a poorly formed head. I also lost points as my axe handle had the grain perpendicular to the direction of swing - the handle breaks easier that way. Aside from that I had done a pretty good job of sharpening it and received a B+.