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Have wanted a wooden mallet for years. Funds are simply not available, but a neighbor had a live oak removed. I watched for pieces that I thought would be a manageable size. Snagged a couple of pieces from the workers. Below is about the size I started with. Pictured is dogwood with a bug that clicks and lays eggs that creates dust. This pictured piece will be in the fire this weekend. The pictured piece is only to give approximate size.
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Now I have chisels to sharpen and more mallets to make.

Any ideas on how to keep this from cracking? Will the paper bag trick work?

Take all those shavings and stuff them in a brown paper bag with the mallet, tape it close and put it up on a shelf in your garage or workshop for a few months. I have 9 green bowls in various stages of drying that haven't cracked yet. Nice first turning job. Yes, that oak will dull your tools fast.

Looks Good!!

Another turning addict in the making.

One of these days I'm gonna make a potato masher mallet.

Here's what I know about wet wood. If the pith is still in the wood the chances of cracking are much higher.

Some dimensional change and cracking can occur even without the pith. You can try the paper bag trick, microwaving (Not the one you use for food a separate one for shop use), Soaking in denatured alcohol to remove the water. food dehydrator, etc. There are lots of methods for drying wood.

For mallets, candle sticks and other spindles and solid objects, you are better off waiting for the wood to dry and become stable before turning, solid objects take longer to dry due to the increased thickness of the material.

If you want to use wet wood, try to use pieces where the pith has been removed, turn over size, wait for it to dry and stabilize and then do a final turning.

A word of warning about branch wood. Wood from branches and limbs is under severe tension and this tension will be released during the drying process causing rather extreme warping of the wood. Wait for branch wood to completely dry before even processing it, unless your intention is for the warp to be a feature.

Thanks everyone for your compliments. And, yes, I'm now looking for other pieces of wood to turn. While turning this, you could really smell the green of the wood. This live oak and water oak around here really warps while drying. Found another piece yesterday and will try to turn another today. Yes, son wants one.

I have folks come to the back gate while I'm working, stand behind me until I turn off the machine and then they speak. Was thinking of a gun, but I think I'll drill a hold in the end of the handle, tie in a piece of leather string for a hanger and have ready when the next person pulls that trick.
Have decided to put one by the bed just in case I need to throw it. They may get me first, but if this hits them, they will feel the pain.

Thanks, everyone for your good suggestions on drying out the wood. The bag trick, how long do I leave it in the bag? Would coating with an oil, shellac or lacquer help to slow down the drying? May have to sand and recoat later, but that's just not a problem.
Soaking in denatured alcohol: how long? Then how does it dry?
Another addict in the making? Absolutely! When the chisels are sharp, it is tons of fun. Need to get a skew and try my hand at that.

Thank you for all your help. Will start trying them to see what works and how.

The methods below are for projects that have been cut to rough size or finished. These methods (other than sealing the ends) are not typically used for drying green wood that is left for seasoning and will be worked later when "dry".

Here is my timing for bag drying YMMMV depending on humidity and temps.

Date the bag with the date you put it in, weigh the bag, project and shavings, record the results. Wait a month and weigh again, it should weigh less. wait 2 more weeks and weigh again, weigh every week to 2 weeks after that until it is the same approximate weight for 2 consecutive weigh ins. It has now reached Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC)and is as stable as it will get. It can take months for bag drying to reach EMC.

You can seal the end grain with a product called "anchor seal", wax, or latex paint. Just the end grain though, the wood needs to breathe for the moisture to leave, sealing end grain will slow the drying process. I typically seal end grain on boards and other stock, that I have not done anything with. Once turned, I don't usually seal it up, I want it to dry.

Denatured Alcohol (DNA) Method: Weigh your project before submerging in DNA. You need DNA enough to completely submerge your item, this can be kinda pricey depending on the size of your project. Put your item in a bucket, fill with DNA until covered. Cover the bucket to reduce loss from evaporation. Let sit in the DNA 24-48 hrs, this allows the DNA time to enter the wood and absorb and displace the natural moisture. Remove from the bucket, and let dry. Once dry to the touch, weigh, then weigh daily until you reach EMC. The alcohol will dry much faster than the water, this is why you weigh daily. The DNA can be reused for drying or as a cleaning solvent, (I use it for drying until it no longer smells like alcohol) I would not use it for mixing shellac or other finishes as it is contaminated with water at this point and will continue to dilute after each soaking session.

Best of luck!!

. . .for the clear explanation. Makes perfect sense and this is a new area for me. Will begin my experimentation.

Addict? Yes, I roughed out a piece of dogwood today. It now is in a bag and will get turned by my son who wants to make his own. It's a good feeling when your children want to learn trades.

Thanks, Gents, for all the info. Will try to learn and retain.