Pattern Sanding Jig used to Make Compact Compasses
Posted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 9:13 pm
Pattern Sanding Jig on ShopSmith to Build Compact Compass(es).
A few Compact Compasses for drawing or for use as dividers seemed like a good project after seeingJohn Heisz's planor his YouTube Video.
I was thinking that the ability to make different sizes would be useful as well as using a pattern to replicate the arms. I wanted to use the Overhead Fence Principle that Nick Engler used on the ShopSmith because I have used it to make duplicates and used it to make different sizes from the same pattern.
The Pattern Sanding jig, upper row, consists of a base and a fence. The fence a thin strip of 1/8” plywood glued to the base. The base was mounted to the ShopSmith table with ShopSmith T slot nuts. I drilled and countersunk the machine screw holes parallel to the fence. An indent on the sanding disk side of the fence was made by extending the quill and sanding disk. I used only the upper ½ “ of the disk, to avoid feathering the underside of the materials used to make the Compact Compass legs. [ATTACH]22032[/ATTACH]
Upper Row: Pattern Sanding Jig with indent from Sanding Disk
Middle Row: Rounded toes, Oversize : Sharp Toes, Oversize : Rounded Toes, Pattern Size : 2 - Sharp Toes , Pattern Size,
Bottom Row: Pattern Size Prototype, Paper Pattern, Reduced Pattern used to make Pattern sized Compact Compasses.
Initially, two prototypes, based on the pattern in John Heisz's PDF plan, were used to make a pair of Compact Compass legs. The prototypes were used to make the Compact Compass on the left. This first Compact Compass, has rounded toes, because the pattern's point was used to shape the toes.
At this point, I realized that the pattern sanded legs would always be larger than the plan, so I drew a border on the paper pattern and made a smaller pattern, bottom row, right. The smaller pattern was used to make the three Compact Compasses in the middle row. The middle one has rounded toes because the point of the pattern was pressed against the fence.
The second, Compact Compass from the left was made by holding the legs of the pattern sized Compass against the pattern sanding fence, but not the point. This created longer pointed legs. The rest of the Compact Compasses were made using the sides of the pattern(s) to make longer legs without rounded toes.
1. I am trying other changes: E6000, a evaporative solvent glue is being used to hold the #10 – 24 machine screw in the countersunk pivot.
2. Small wood screws are being used as the center point for the Compass.
3. The proposed # 10 – 24 x ½ “ machine screw is the right size, I used 3/4” because I thought that the materials I used may need a longer machine screw.
4. The pencil hole in the toe opposite the center point pivot is a 1/8 “ hole with a countersunk upper surface to allow the pencil used to draw the circumference enough penetration to reach the stock surface.
The E6000, was used instead of epoxy. It takes longer than epoxy to set up, but there is no mixing. Its the big risk because the machine screws and small wood screw must stay in place for to prevent the machine screw from turning and the small wood screws from being forced out of the compass toe(s).
I had to match and sand pairs of legs, even though they were made by pattern sanding. The pattern(s) were held to the material using double faced tape. Double faced tape in smaller quantities was used to hold pairs together for tune up sanding.
Double faced tape was not applied to the point of the pattern to avoid breaking the point of the pattern off when the pattern and leg are separated. The double faced tape on the pattern was good enough for multiple legs. Or maybe that was why I had to tune up sand pairs of legs.
The big surprise was how small the compasses are, really compact compasses.
Copyright C 2013 Joel N. Gessele
All Rights Reserved
A few Compact Compasses for drawing or for use as dividers seemed like a good project after seeingJohn Heisz's planor his YouTube Video.
I was thinking that the ability to make different sizes would be useful as well as using a pattern to replicate the arms. I wanted to use the Overhead Fence Principle that Nick Engler used on the ShopSmith because I have used it to make duplicates and used it to make different sizes from the same pattern.
The Pattern Sanding jig, upper row, consists of a base and a fence. The fence a thin strip of 1/8” plywood glued to the base. The base was mounted to the ShopSmith table with ShopSmith T slot nuts. I drilled and countersunk the machine screw holes parallel to the fence. An indent on the sanding disk side of the fence was made by extending the quill and sanding disk. I used only the upper ½ “ of the disk, to avoid feathering the underside of the materials used to make the Compact Compass legs. [ATTACH]22032[/ATTACH]
Upper Row: Pattern Sanding Jig with indent from Sanding Disk
Middle Row: Rounded toes, Oversize : Sharp Toes, Oversize : Rounded Toes, Pattern Size : 2 - Sharp Toes , Pattern Size,
Bottom Row: Pattern Size Prototype, Paper Pattern, Reduced Pattern used to make Pattern sized Compact Compasses.
Initially, two prototypes, based on the pattern in John Heisz's PDF plan, were used to make a pair of Compact Compass legs. The prototypes were used to make the Compact Compass on the left. This first Compact Compass, has rounded toes, because the pattern's point was used to shape the toes.
At this point, I realized that the pattern sanded legs would always be larger than the plan, so I drew a border on the paper pattern and made a smaller pattern, bottom row, right. The smaller pattern was used to make the three Compact Compasses in the middle row. The middle one has rounded toes because the point of the pattern was pressed against the fence.
The second, Compact Compass from the left was made by holding the legs of the pattern sized Compass against the pattern sanding fence, but not the point. This created longer pointed legs. The rest of the Compact Compasses were made using the sides of the pattern(s) to make longer legs without rounded toes.
1. I am trying other changes: E6000, a evaporative solvent glue is being used to hold the #10 – 24 machine screw in the countersunk pivot.
2. Small wood screws are being used as the center point for the Compass.
3. The proposed # 10 – 24 x ½ “ machine screw is the right size, I used 3/4” because I thought that the materials I used may need a longer machine screw.
4. The pencil hole in the toe opposite the center point pivot is a 1/8 “ hole with a countersunk upper surface to allow the pencil used to draw the circumference enough penetration to reach the stock surface.
The E6000, was used instead of epoxy. It takes longer than epoxy to set up, but there is no mixing. Its the big risk because the machine screws and small wood screw must stay in place for to prevent the machine screw from turning and the small wood screws from being forced out of the compass toe(s).
I had to match and sand pairs of legs, even though they were made by pattern sanding. The pattern(s) were held to the material using double faced tape. Double faced tape in smaller quantities was used to hold pairs together for tune up sanding.
Double faced tape was not applied to the point of the pattern to avoid breaking the point of the pattern off when the pattern and leg are separated. The double faced tape on the pattern was good enough for multiple legs. Or maybe that was why I had to tune up sand pairs of legs.
The big surprise was how small the compasses are, really compact compasses.
Copyright C 2013 Joel N. Gessele
All Rights Reserved