Shopsmith Forums

On my "new" 10e I loosened up the allen screw on the adaptor above the drill chuck and tried to get it to slide off the shaft - taking the drill chuck with it. I even tapped it lightly with a hammer. Nothing. Am I missing something that is holding the adaptor/chuck in place? Any suggestions of how to get it off?

Also, how is the drill chuck held in place on the adaptor - is that just a press fit or is there some allen screw or key that holds the drill chuck to the adaptor?

Thanks

If there is signs of rust, try some PB Blaster or other penetrant oil. Not familiar with the 10e , so not sure if it's attached differently from a MarkV headstock.

Open up the jaws all the way on the chuck, there may be a screw inside holding it to the adapter.

I'm sure others will chime in today on that problem.

My 10ER drill chuck is the same as my V. I would remove the screw and fill the hole with PB Blaster and every other type of product you can find and let it soak for a couple of hours. Spray around the shaft where it meets the base of the chuck as well and let it leach into the recess. I'm sure it's just rusted on. Unless the 10E is different than the 10ER.

If your chuck is the usual one supplied, it has a 5/8" hole in it and just slides on the 10ER shaft and is held on by the set screw. There is no "adapter".
It would look like this:
[ATTACH]22050[/ATTACH]
I have also seen non Shopsmith chucks screwed on an adapter like on the left in this pic:
[ATTACH]22051[/ATTACH]
Once the setscrew(s) removed you can put penetrating oil in the hole and both types should come off eventually if rusted in place.

By the way, (re the "adapter above the drill chuck") if you are looking at the ring pointed at by the red arrow in this photo:
[ATTACH]22052[/ATTACH]
It is not an adapter or part of the chuck. It retains the spindle bearings and is not removed.

All good advice so far. The 10E/ER spindle and drill chuck is exactly like the Mark V/5/VII/7 etc. Unless it's a one off thing done by a previous owner. In that case, we would need pictures. Actually pictures, even with standard equipment would help.

I agree with others that it's either rusted on, or there's a burr from the set screw. Either way it's going to take a little time, patience, persuasion, and chemicals.

It it's not too rusted, try some penetrating oil. I've had a lot of luck with Kroil but others haven't. I have had no luck with PB Blaster, but others have. Whichever penetrating oil you try, take the set screw all the way out and fill that hole with it. If it seeps out, even slowly you're not in too bad shape.

If it's very rusted, get some Evapo-Rust (Harbor Freight carries it, Lowes used to, and it might be available elsewhere). You have to submerge the rusted part in the Evapo-Rust, so situate the headstock so the quill is pointing down (like in drill press mode), cut off the top of a plastic water bottle, put the Evapo-Rust in it, and prop everything up so the drill chuck is submerged in the Evapo-Rust. Let it sit for an hour or so up to overnight if it is significantly rusted. Rinse it off, then try your penetrating oil.

If it's a burr, then hopefully you can get the chuck moving a little. You may be able to rotate the chuck slightly until it stops, then rotate it the other way until it stops again. If that's the case, use your penetrating oil and keep working at it.

beeg wrote:The only thing I can add to the advice is. Put the HAMMER AWAY.

And the pipe wrench!:D


Pix will help us help you!;) It eliminates us guessing what you have!

I WD40ed and LiquidWrenched in the allen keyhole. After about an hour it slowly moved and then pulled off. The pix helped since I did not know what was under it. Looks like a Jacobs 33b chuck or or something like that may made in Conn.?

beeg wrote:The only thing I can add to the advice is. Put the HAMMER AWAY.

Although I can't remember ever disagreeing with beeg before, I do recognize a small ball pein hammer a help in cases like this. The metal to metal vibration from a tap does loosen stuck objects. Same reasoning as an impact hammer. but in this case, a tap with the hammer is enough we don't want to damage the spindle or the chuck.

Try this again after the soaking recommended above.