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I have access to a bunch of 30mm saw blades. is there an arbor that can be gotten to have these work on my Shopsmith?

fightingseabee wrote:I have access to a bunch of 30mm saw blades. is there an arbor that can be gotten to have these work on my Shopsmith?

I've not heard of a 30mm arbor that fits the 5/8" spindle, especially the taper on the spindle.

I see three possibilities,

One, take an existing arbor to a machine shop and ask the cost to make one using 30mm instead of 1.25"

Two, take an existing 1.25" arbor and have them mill down and re-cut threads at 30mm (no clue about the pitch but they should have a good idea what would safely work) and machine a new secure nut to match the 30mm threads.

Three, if the blades are cheap enough, have you given any thought to enlarging the arbor hole? Any quality blade sharpening shop or machine shop can increase the 30mm to 1.25". Though depending upon the cost of the blade, enlarging the hole could get to be pricey.

I have not done any machining of a bushing for a saw blade but I have been using bushings or sleeves to mount different wire brushes or grinding wheels on smaller diameter shafts for years. Many times, I can find a bushing or sleeve that has the right ID or OD and I just machine the other side for a perfect fit.

I believe a bronze thrust bearing with 5/8" ID and 1 3/16" OD could be machined/filed/sanded down to 30MM without too much effort. See http://www.mcmaster.com/#thrust-washers/=o041pe for thickness and specs.

benush26 wrote:I've not heard of a 30mm arbor that fits the 5/8" spindle, especially the taper on the spindle.

I see three possibilities,

One, take an existing arbor to a machine shop and ask the cost to make one using 30mm instead of 1.25"

Two, take an existing 1.25" arbor and have them mill down and re-cut threads at 30mm (no clue about the pitch but they should have a good idea what would safely work) and machine a new secure nut to match the 30mm threads.

Three, if the blades are cheap enough, have you given any thought to enlarging the arbor hole? Any quality blade sharpening shop or machine shop can increase the 30mm to 1.25". Though depending upon the cost of the blade, enlarging the hole could get to be pricey.

thanks for the tips. making or modifying the arbor will be costly. these blades are free so I will send them home and when I get there sometime in October I will try drilling them. I may be set for life there are that many.

I still believe the use of a 5/8" ID insert in the 30mm ID saw blade will be must quicker and cheaper. You can switch the insert to another blade when replacing the blade with a new blade. I have not had any problems with using a insert/bushing/sleeve setup for smaller shafts.

billmayo wrote:I still believe the use of a 5/8" ID insert in the 30mm ID saw blade will be must quicker and cheaper. You can switch the insert to another blade when replacing the blade with a new blade. I have not had any problems with using a insert/bushing/sleeve setup for smaller shafts.

Here is one locations for such a bushing. A lot cheaper than custom machining an arbor.

I will have to wait for a couple months till I get home and check everything over and see what the best options are. thanks for all of the input

SDSSmith wrote:Here is one locations for such a bushing. A lot cheaper than custom machining an arbor.

That's a great link!!! For $5.29 I think that's the way to go!

SDSSmith wrote:Here is one locations for such a bushing. A lot cheaper than custom machining an arbor.

Thanks. I have been looking for a store that sold these bushings/inserts that was the correct size. I bookmarked the store. I knew I had seen one some years ago. Having a metal lathe has worked for me but it takes a lot of patience and setup time. Much quicker to just buy some.

I too have the same problem living in the UK where we can only get 30mm blades. Whilst modifying the arbour is a possibility it could prove expensive if not done right and another needed from the US. Craft Supplies no longer exist it seems

the 30mm blades are cheap enough but I was advised by local engineering shop that reaming out to 1 1/4 would not be possible due to the blades' tool steel wrecking any reamer to be used.