Pen turners advice

[rmojo]

I am looking to start pen turning. My question is should I get a mandrel with a live center or the mandrel saver? let me know what you guys think, thanks.

[dstensland]

I am looking to start pen turning. My question is should I get a mandrel with a live center or the mandrel saver? let me know what you guys think, thanks.

You can use either. My kid started turning pens this summer. He's done about 15 of them so far. At first he used the live center but he soon preferred the mandrel saver as it seemed a bit less prone to the noise of skew chatter. He doesn't even touch the live center anymore.

That said, the live center can be used for other types of turning. However, you could probably adapt your projects a bit to use the mandrel saver to perform the same function.

-Dave

[terrydowning]

Is cost/price an issue?

If you're only ever going to do pens on a mandrel a mandrel saver is great.

If you want increased flexibility, get the 60 degree live center. Works for turning between centers, can be used as a cup center (if you manufacture a cup for it)

If the cost/price is not that big of an issue and you can afford both then start collecting lathe bits and pieces now and buy both you won't regret having the capability.

[benush26]

I agree with Terry and might add the Nova 10 piece (??) set that has live center and a variety of tips. I think I paid $50 so it is spendy, but I occasionally use two live bearings when turning really frustrating wood, that is prone to exploding chips (maybe caused by operator error). I put the nova in the 4 jaw chuck and the BIG 60 degree in the tail stock.

The idea of buying what you need as your needs change is a wise idea. For most slimline wood and plastic, I use the mandrel saver. For blanks that I, in the past, have had too many blow outs (trying hard to NOT admit user error ), I use two live centers so that I don't have to worry about chips.

I think what I like most about pens, is that you can let you imagination run wild when you start to think of different ways to make designs using varieties if species and even materials sandwiched in between. I go to I.A.P. and am in awe of what people come up with.

[Cavediver]

I agree with Terry and might add the Nova 10 piece (??) set that has live center and a variety of tips. I think I paid $50 so it is spendy, but I occasionally use two live bearings when turning really frustrating wood, that is prone to exploding chips (maybe caused by operator error). I put the nova in the 4 jaw chuck and the BIG 60 degree in the tail stock.

The idea of buying what you need as your needs change is a wise idea. For most slimline wood and plastic, I use the mandrel saver. For blanks that I, in the past, have had too many blow outs (trying hard to NOT admit user error ), I use two live centers so that I don't have to worry about chips.

I think what I like most about pens, is that you can let you imagination run wild when you start to think of different ways to make designs using varieties if species and even materials sandwiched in between. I go to I.A.P. and am in awe of what people come up with.

Wait a minute... If you put the material between two live centers, doesn't it just stop spinning when you touch it? I think I'm missing something here

[terrydowning]

I think he means he puts just the 60 degree tip in the scroll chuck (to use as a dead center). Not the actual live center assembly with the bearing. Very clever.

I made a dead center out of hardwood for turning tubes between centers.

[Cavediver]

Ahhhh. Interesting idea. I'd think it would slip, but I guess there's not that much force on an object that size. Thanks for the clarification!

[benush26]

I think he means he puts just the 60 degree tip in the scroll chuck (to use as a dead center). Not the actual live center assembly with the bearing. Very clever.

I made a dead center out of hardwood for turning tubes between centers.

Yep! It's a good thing there are wise members who can explain what I leave out. I find I either drone on and on covering every little thing (that should be glossed over) or speed through it omitting usually crucial info.
The dual point method works well, not much slipping once the blank gets up to speed but great safety if I happen to make a mistake. It did take some finesse when I was learning how much pressure to apply on the quill, but after a while it becomes second nature. I also use carbide tipped tools for the initial stock removal and shaping, so that might be part of the reason for success.

I did see a wooden dead center that Terry describes and I think because of the added friction, it would work much better than my metal point in the chuck. Making and using one makes great sense. Not only because of the friction standpoint, but also, the tip is short enough that I only have a small portion sticking out and sometimes I get closer than I like with a tool.

Thanks Terry! Next project is my attempt to make a wooden 60 degree dead center!

Ben

[terrydowning]

Mine's not even close to perfect. it just has to fit in the hole.

The brass tubes can dig into the wooden center, i just touch up from time to time. I have to clean off the finishing left overs anyways.

Advantages to Turning between centers (TBC)
More accurate than the mandrel (no run out or mandrel flex)
Shorter setup time, (you're not fiddling with the mandrel)
You can square the ends to the tubes using your turning tools

Disadvantages

You can only turn one barrel at a time this makes it more difficult to turn 2 barrel pens like the slimline and cigar, you really have to pay attention to the size of the barrels where the centers meet.

More difficult to use standard bushings (I don't typically use bushings when turning pens)

Just how I do pens, YMMV everyone picks their own best way eventually figuring out what works best for them. I'm always willing to try new things on the lathe.

[rmojo]

Terry can you post some pictures how you do this?