Need a finish that will take some heat
Moderator: admin
Need a finish that will take some heat
I am in the process of making a 3d tumbling block design trivet out of walnut, hard maple, and lyptus. I would like some type of finish to make the pieces "pop" but don't know what would happen to a finish when a hot pan, bowl or whatever is placed on it. Suggestions for a heat resistant finish.
Regards,
Dwight
Regards,
Dwight
I agree - I'd think an oil based finish would be your best bet but not sure that will fullfill your desire for "pop"
'78 Mark V 500 #27995 (my Dad bought new)
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner
- curiousgeorge
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 880
- Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 1:00 am
- Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Try some Watco Danish Oil on a test piece. I think that may give you what you want. It's easy to apply. Just wipe or brush on with no brush marks. It soaks in really deep, seals the wood and is easy to maintain, if needed, by simply wiping on another coat. There are several shades as well as a neutral color if you want to keep it natural.
Another really good choice might be wipe on poly for many of the same reasons.
I use both often because they are both pretty much idiot proof.
Another really good choice might be wipe on poly for many of the same reasons.
I use both often because they are both pretty much idiot proof.
George
Ft. Worth, TX.
Go TCU Froggies
Ft. Worth, TX.
Go TCU Froggies
- terrydowning
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1678
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
Mineral oil is always my choice for cutting boards or anything else that will have direct food contact.terrydowning wrote:Plain old mineral oil is another option.
'78 Mark V 500 #27995 (my Dad bought new)
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner
Thanks for all the replies. I will agree a film finish would not be the best choice so I think I'll go with mineral oil. Cheap, easy to obtain, touch-ups and refinishing would be easy. I'm still working at getting it together. A lot of pieces, joints and alignments. Thanks all for the input.
Regards,
Dwight
Regards,
Dwight
- Jack Wilson
- Gold Member
- Posts: 186
- Joined: Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:40 pm
- Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
- derekdarling
- Gold Member
- Posts: 318
- Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 2:53 pm
- Location: Surrey, BC