Shopsmith Forums

Been considering buying one for awhile...Any thoughts on this one? I really know nothing about them.

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/tls/4702275312.html

aaronm wrote:Been considering buying one for awhile...Any thoughts on this one? I really know nothing about them.

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/tls/4702275312.html

I know very little about the 10 but for that price I believe I would be going to get it. Holy Cow, it was brand new in the 50s; that means that it is not over 65 years of age. A couple guys here on the forum will tell you that that is not even enough time to break it in.

There are others here on the forum that will offer you a more definitive evaluation and recommendation.

The cabinet works looks pretty good too.

Thanks. Hope somebody gives me some info..

'Decent' condition. Minimal rust. Appears well kept. Seems complete with a shaper/jointer fence extra.

Non lockable casters 'may' be a problem.(A wedge will work around that)

$275 is high.

Good as they are, they just do not command high $. i.e. It is a buyers market!

Offer $150 and go get it!(JMHO)


$ varies by location.

Now for the other stuff!

This is a model that has been out of production for over a half century.

However there is much always available on e-bay used.

This model only has three speeds(although a speed controller is an option as well as a DC motor). That would each double my suggested $ above.

None of the current SPT's fit this model, although there are rare adapters out there(more doubling) or they can be made(home brew).

Question is, how would you intend to use it. It makes a good lathe, an excellent drill press and horizontal boring machine, 12" sanding disc etc. but the table and saw blade(8") are small. It 'can' also be used as a shaper/router, but the speed range is lacking.

i don't think you'll find one in too much better condition .how likely are you going to buy one from the original owner also? If it had the speed reducer it would be perfect.you can add that on when you find one.I think the 10er's are cooler than the 500s although probably not as useful all around.
Be careful when you use it.They don't have many of the safety features of today's tools.
Just go get it at his best price.It's a little high but it's in NJ.REverything's a little higher there ,right?

IMHO - nice condition and the cabinet is very neat.

BUT I think the price is too high and I personally would not be very happy with it's performance. Again just my opinion but these old 10's are only good as a reasonably capable drill press (permanently mounted on the wall). They are somewhat ok as a lathe but only sort of. As for the other functions - sanding - ok. Saw? Forgetabout it. Doesn't have the speed changer so that is a negative. You do have a fair number of good parts there that you could part out - I see a molding head down there as well as a drill chuck.

Overall I would pass it up unless I got a killer deal. But again this is just my opinion.

bobgroh wrote:IMHO - nice condition and the cabinet is very neat.

BUT I think the price is too high and I personally would not be very happy with it's performance. Again just my opinion but these old 10's are only good as a reasonably capable drill press (permanently mounted on the wall). They are somewhat ok as a lathe but only sort of. As for the other functions - sanding - ok. Saw? Forgetabout it. Doesn't have the speed changer so that is a negative. You do have a fair number of good parts there that you could part out - I see a molding head down there as well as a drill chuck.

Overall I would pass it up unless I got a killer deal. But again this is just my opinion.

Let's talk to someone who has had one (or 6!)

Saw, weakest point on ANY Shopsmith, more so right here! 8 inch blade max, and a table smaller than a cheap end table! If you need a CHEAP trim saw, this is it. Ain't gonna sugar-coat it. As a table saw, this rates slightly better than a skil-saw. And, except for a completely USELESS upper guard, has NO safety equipment! (Yes, I still use mine, and also have ALL my fingers! But, I'm ALWAYS wary.) As anyone should be, doing ANY woodworking.

Lathe? OK, who has USED a Model 10, and thinks the lathe is NOT the best of any Shopsmith? Your silence is deafening. Fred, you've got the new M7, and a Model 10, yet use your antique ER for all the heavy stuff. Why?

Drill press? Look at the junk at Harbor Freight and (dare I say it) Sears now-a-days. This one is less money. (Those are "cheaper," but you'll spend more cash.) Horizontal D-P? Find one for less than $1000, that doesn't say "Shopsmith" on it somewhere.

Sanding, same as any other Shopsmith. It mounts on the spindle, and uses the same discs as any other SS. Works EXACTLY the same. (Yes, the Model 10 came with an aluminum disc, but the later Mark Series discs mount the same, and use the same sandpaper.)

OK, flexibility. Since the Model 10 is SO simple, it is VERY EASY to adapt to something it wasn't designed to do, and do it well. Here's one for you, some of the first-made 10 E models, never left the factory, and built the rest. Kept on building Shopsmiths, even the new M7 series. Since 1947! (Try that with a new aluminum Mark series.)

Oh, Model 10 refers to the 10 E, as well as the 10 ER. The Mark Series is all the later (Mk2 through MkV/5/VII/7.) Model 10 has LOTS of HEAVY (you'll REALLY like lifting it into vertical D_P mode, use Hz D-P mode whenever possible) cast iron. Mark Series, aluminum. Lighter. See just how many are being used in the factory. Wonder why? Aluminum.

Now, the price. This one doesn't have too many extra goodies, and I would not offer much more than what JPG suggested, or $150.00. You NEED a speedchanger, and the metal legs. However, with a decent DC variable-speed motor conversion, you won't need the speedchanger. And, the DC motor is worth every bleeping cent it costs!

If you want help restoring a Model 10, there are TONS of sources. If you want help restoring a Mark Series, again, TONS of sources.

steve

OK, I just went and looked at the other pictures.

You've got the "jointer/shaper" fence, and the jointer head.

You also have the mortising attachment, with at least one chisel/drill.

You have the "MagnaDado" dado blade, too.

Don't go over $200.00. Try for $150, you could get that price.

The nameplate is askew, and the switch is horizontal, instead of vertical. Wonder why? (Bargaining chips. Both are VERY easy fixes.) The upper screw or rivet on the nameplate is missing. See if there is a hole behind the plate. HANDY hole to have.

steve

As proud as you guys are of your 10s, you sure are cheap when recommending a price.

It seems to me that a superior drill press alone is worth $275.