Shopsmith Forums

I am so excited I got my 10ER earlier then i thought. I was not getting it till next week and I was able to pick it up today!!! The person I got it from included the original owners manual, what looks like a flyer (that was 10 Cents back in the day, says it in the top right corner) What looks like the motor tag (Type FH,FHT,&FJ)some ShopSmith Tools, non name brand tools, a new set of carving tools unopened tools that say ready to use, and of course all the attachments just no band saw. Might have to order that!

You can tell the unit has been sitting the rails had a bunch of top rust. WD40 took that right off, and during his move the power cable was ripped out. My neighbor was able to solder them and heat shrink them together to make it safer. She started right up with some squeaks as she starts up but then runs what I believe is fine! There really is to much rust just some on the motor housing and some one the headstock. The only other problem is the Feed Knob has been stripped out for all but 1 hole.

How do I get the rust off the Headstock and motor housing? Also the tail stock quill supposed to be non turning?

Thanks
Brian Miller

Congrats. I ordered one three weeks ago, can't wait for it to get here. I hope it gives you years of fun.

Check out the rebuild threads here for some idea about bringing it back to factory or better. I would suggest checking the bearings in the headstock, you don't necessarily need to replace them, but I am sure they are dry.

Looks like a nice machine .... enjoy it!

Welcome Brian and congratulations with your new toy!!! I have several and love each one...

If you haven't done so yet, Wipe down the quill tube with light weight oil and check to see if the rack teeth have some grease where they mesh with the quill feed pinion teeth.

Lots of good information and friendly folks here...

Mike

On the bare steel I use a maroon scotch brite with penetrating oil. On the painted surfaces I would use a less abrasive scotch brite pad with penetrating oil.
Enjoy it.

Jeepmiller09 wrote:I am so excited I got my 10ER earlier then i thought. I was not getting it till next week and I was able to pick it up today!!! The person I got it from included the original owners manual, what looks like a flyer (that was 10 Cents back in the day, says it in the top right corner) What looks like the motor tag (Type FH,FHT,&FJ)some ShopSmith Tools, non name brand tools, a new set of carving tools unopened tools that say ready to use, and of course all the attachments just no band saw. Might have to order that!

You can tell the unit has been sitting, the rails (way tubes) had a bunch of top rust. WD40 took that right off, and during his move the power cable was ripped out. My neighbour was able to solder them and heat shrink them together to make it safer. She started right up with some squeaks as she starts up but then runs what I believe is fine! There really is (not) too much rust, just some on the motor housing (motor bracket) and some on the headstock. The only other problem is the Feed Knob has been stripped out for all but 1 hole.

How do I get the rust off the Headstock and motor housing? Also the tail stock quill (cup center) supposed to be non turning?

Thanks
Brian Miller

Welcome aboard.
Looks to be in good shape, with just a bit of surface rust. I would wipe it down with a rag and some solvent, try a wire brush on the lock levers and on the shafts.
It looks to be quite complete. I see you got a pen mandrel and the rubber block (used to clean the sandpaper on the sanding disk/sanding drum.)

Accessories that are nice to have are:
- the speed changer (gives a wider range of speeds, nice for turning. ).
- the front table extension, (makes it harder to drop the miter gauge on the floor. )
- face plate. (for turning bowls)
- tailstock chuck arbour. (used to mount the drill chuck in the tailstock)

Items that I don't see in the pictures are:
- rip fence
- saw arbour
- upper saw guard/splitter (lower saw guards are very rare, they were an optional accessory and only offered for a short time.)
- key for the drill chuck
- table riser arm? it may be mounted on the table tubes, we can't see that side in the pictures.

The cup center in the tailstock does not turn, lubricate where it contacts the wood with some wax.
Live centers are available and nice to have, the bore in tailstock accepts accessories that have a #2 Morse taper which is very common.

Originally there would have been two Feed Knobs, one at the front and one at the back. They are available on Ebay Feed Knob

I can't help with your restoration, but have to comment on what we are seeing here.

Wow! This speaks LOUDLY about the durability and usefulness of a 50+ year old woodworking machine. Pray tell, what other woodworking machine would be able to make such a splash. Not only is a single person very happy over possessing such a machine, but quite a few others are proud owners of similar machines and are eager to offer help to each other. What other machine has achieved this longevity? What other brand has achieved such a popularity and support?

Shopsmith was, and is, one of the very best woodworking devices. We are all proud of this brand and are happy to help one another.

Best Wishes!

For derusting the way tubes, a 2" pvc pipe plugged at one end and a threaded plug at the other cut to about 5' lemgth. Insert way tube. Fill with evaporust. Insert a plugged 1" pvc pipe to reduce amount of evaporust needed.

Let soak over night.

Or cut up some potatoes, place them in pipe with tube and fill with water.

Let it rot for a month.


Finally remove and rinse off the water or let the evaporust dry.

When ready very light polishing will reveal all the steel that was there when you started, but minus the oxidation.

Abrasion works, but does remove good material as well.

BTW do not sweat small pits. Coat with penetral to prevent them from growing.

Finally keep em waxed.

The cast iron, clean with mineral spirits, wash, then paint. Lastly keep waxed also. Johnson's ORIGINAL Paste Wax(Floor Wax).

JPG wrote:For derusting the way tubes, a 2" pvc pipe plugged at one end and a threaded plug at the other cut to about 5' lemgth. Insert way tube. Fill with evaporust. Insert a plugged 1" pvc pipe to reduce amount of evaporust needed.

Let soak over night.

Or cut up some potatoes, place them in pipe with tube and fill with water.

Let it rot for a month.


Finally remove and rinse off the water or let the evaporust dry.

When ready very light polishing will reveal all the steel that was there when you started, but minus the oxidation.

Abrasion works, but does remove good material as well.

Abrasion removes material, but only removes about 4 thousands or so of material in my experience, hardly enough to make a difference especially with the ER tubes ....

rjent wrote:

JPG wrote:For derusting the way tubes, a 2" pvc pipe plugged at one end and a threaded plug at the other cut to about 5' lemgth. Insert way tube. Fill with evaporust. Insert a plugged 1" pvc pipe to reduce amount of evaporust needed.

Let soak over night.

Or cut up some potatoes, place them in pipe with tube and fill with water.

Let it rot for a month.


Finally remove and rinse off the water or let the evaporust dry.

When ready very light polishing will reveal all the steel that was there when you started, but minus the oxidation.

Abrasion works, but does remove good material as well.

Abrasion removes material, but only removes about 4 thousands or so of material in my experience, hardly enough to make a difference especially with the ER tubes ....

'Polishing' only takes less than 5 minutes. How long to remove that 0.004"?