Shopsmith Forums

Is it better to rip a 60^ bevel on the table saw or the band saw?

Looked at another way you are ripping a 30^ degree bevel.


I would do it in table saw mode. Make sure you have outfeed support and ideally little or no waste on the uphill side of the blade.

Another option: use your jointer with the fence tilted.

dafixer wrote:Is it better to rip a 60^ bevel on the table saw or the band saw?

You have not said what size piece of stock you are trying to cut but regardless I would do it on the table saw all the time unless we are talking about really small pieces. The table saw will give you a nice smooth cut. For small pieces (3-4-5-6 inch pieces) I would use the band saw.

jsburger wrote:

dafixer wrote:Is it better to rip a 60^ bevel on the table saw or the band saw?

You have not said what size piece of stock you are trying to cut but regardless I would do it on the table saw all the time unless we are talking about really small pieces. The table saw will give you a nice smooth cut. For small pieces (3-4-5-6 inch pieces) I would use the band saw.

Depending John on how accurate he needs it, drift, I would even do 5-6" on a TS, less maybe the BS or if he has a bit with the right angle, router table.

ERLover wrote:

jsburger wrote:

dafixer wrote:Is it better to rip a 60^ bevel on the table saw or the band saw?

You have not said what size piece of stock you are trying to cut but regardless I would do it on the table saw all the time unless we are talking about really small pieces. The table saw will give you a nice smooth cut. For small pieces (3-4-5-6 inch pieces) I would use the band saw.

Depending John on how accurate he needs it, drift, I would even do 5-6" on a TS, less maybe the BS or if he has a bit with the right angle, router table.

I don't disagree. However, I almost always cut stock longer than the finished length so there is no issue. Think planer snipe. It is only on the last inch of the stock if it occurs. Mostly no problem with my Pro Planer.

John, I did not think of that, even though I know that, use a longer piece, shape it and cut to length. I have not been in the shop since fall, and spring aint coming here soon!!! To be in the garage, 37* today and should be 57*, May does not look much better, El Nino winter, warm, historically with it comes a cold spring and it is true so far.

ERLover wrote:John, I did not think of that, even though I know that, use a longer piece, shape it and cut to length. I have not been in the shop since fall, and spring aint coming here soon!!! To be in the garage, 37* today and should be 57*, May does not look much better, El Nino winter, warm, historically with it comes a cold spring and it is true so far.

I also don't use extremely long stock. First I use mostly rough sawn stock. 4/4, 6/4, 8/4 etc. I mill my stock with the jointer, the planer and the table saw. Square up the stock and use it. This is not rocket science, it is really simple but you can't use big box store wood that is S4S and crocked.

I'm putting a 60^ bevel on 3 pieces 7" long, 3" wide and 3/8" thick to form an equilateral triangle-shaped small tower. I kinda like the idea of using the jointer but I was wondering how to do this on the table saw for a future 4' long piece that I'll eventually cut up into 7" long pieces.

(Mark V 520, Bandsaw, Jointer/Planer, Scroll Saw, DeWalt 733 planer.)

I'd tilt the table to 30 degrees. Then run the workpiece, on edge, against the fence. But first, fasten the workpiece to another board that serves as a "sled" for fence-runner duty. Use screws, clamps, double-sided tape, hot glue, or whatever suits your needs. Then you can cut the bevel all the way to a sharp edge, and the "sled" still provides a flat edge to guide against the table top.

Thanks to all y'all!