Shopsmith Forums

Greetings,
I realize that using my SS may be a little underpowered for routing, but I'm going to try it anyway taking several passes with small cuts for the roundover I need to do.

So I just built a router fence around the plastic piece that the standard sander/shaper fence uses. When I actually tried to use it with my roundover bit, I realized that I couldn't push the fence out enough to get a very small cut since the fence hits the plastic of the router shield. I'd rather leave the shield on for these sorts of operations but removing it seems like my only option Any ideas?
thanks
jens

Hi Jens! Glad to have you on the Forum - WELCOME!:D

What do you mean when you built a fence around the plastic piece? The standard sander/shaper fence is just the thing to use all by itself. http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... rfence.htm
I assume you are going to have the router bit located between the fence halves and barely protruding. Proceed against the rotation of the bit (left to right in this case) and go slow with small bites.
You can remove the red plastic piece to make set-up easier.

If your workpiece is wider than 3" and your hands are at least that far from the bit, you should be safe. Don't ever try to rout the edge of a narrower piece. If the piece you want to construct is narrow molding like 3/4"X5/8" - Rout the shape on a wider piece and ripsaw off the desired molding.

It is a good idea to set the shield down to the top of the fence where it will serve as a guard for flying chips and as a guide that you should not slide your fingers beneath.

A push block and a featherboard are also good things to use when routing with the Mark V.

It's not that the Mark V is underpowered for this job - it's speed (rpms) is a bit slower than optimum for a two bladed bit. The shaper bits (with 3 cutters) work smoother.

I am confused as to just WHAT you did to make an addition to the router/shaper fence AND WHY?

As to the 'red plastic shield', as Ed said it IS removable(taking his word for that as my 45 yr old shaper/molder fence never had one). That makes it non essential for functionality and is only there to protect careless ones from themselves.

Are you by any chance attempting to shape the stock sitting long side vertical?????:(

P.S. Sorry guys I was thinking(?) under table spindle!:( aka speed increaser

Hi,

If you happen to have the current PTWFE book take a look at chapter 10 Routing. If you don't have the book put it on your list of must own items.

Since you will not want to wait for the book to arrive you can have access to it from here:
http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/welcome.htm

I'd still get the book but at least this might get you going on the subject at hand.

If this doesn't help can you shoot a picture and post it here so we can all see just what you are doing and what you are doing it with? There are lots of ways of doing things but it is important to do them in a safe way. In most cases that means leaving guards and shields in place.

Please if I have not addressed your issue post again and the collective we will try to get to your issue in a more direct way.

Ed

Greetings and thanks for the responses,
I've attached a photo to clarify what I was talking about in my initial question. I don't have the SS router fence, but I used that same red plastic insert (I got it with some accessory pack or another) as the centerpiece of my home-made fence. Thus, in my setup, this red plastic insert is glued to the wood fence pieces, and is not removable as it may be with the official SS router fence package. See the red on the fence in the photo? So it's that red plastic piece on the fence that hits the back side of the router shield when I try to adjust the fence to take a tiny cut with the roundover bit.
Thanks again for your help with this.
jens

Put a 'shim' board on table to raise stock above the bottom of the fence(same as lowering quill, but effectively decreases fence height at rear. You might want to raise finger board as well.

I guess I still am not sure what part is hitting what part. My best guess is where the arrow is... is that right?
[ATTACH]3117[/ATTACH]

Add some narrower board to the fence face to move the work further away from the cutter then you can bury the bit behind the fence and still have the shields in place.

Or place a board on the table to raise the work up so you can lift the quill higher allowing the shield to clear the fence.

Either method works.

I simply added aux faces to my fence Then using a dremel I cut (notched) the clear plastic shield to fit over them. I made mine so I can actually slide them together, thus cutting the bit profile into my aux fence pieces. The makes it even safer (less bit exposed) plus it then becomes backup support to the wood so there is less tear out.

Now I finally understand! You need a fence that is not that tall. My suggestion is to put your fence on a shelf somewhere and make a simple fence like the one shown at the link below. It will be nothing more than a 3/4" board clamped on it's face. Or if you wish, use a jointed 2/4 but lay it on it's 3 1/2" face rather than on it's edge.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... uter_2.htm

When you get to that Sawdust Session - go to #5 on the blackboard. The instructions for downloading the plans are written on the blackboard before you run your cursor over a number.

Hi,

Has your question been answered? If not get back to us, it might take a while but we will find the answer... If so give us a report.

Thanks,

Ed

jhilke wrote:Greetings,
I realize that using my SS may be a little underpowered for routing, but I'm going to try it anyway taking several passes with small cuts for the roundover I need to do.

So I just built a router fence around the plastic piece that the standard sander/shaper fence uses. When I actually tried to use it with my roundover bit, I realized that I couldn't push the fence out enough to get a very small cut since the fence hits the plastic of the router shield. I'd rather leave the shield on for these sorts of operations but removing it seems like my only option Any ideas?
thanks
jens