Miter wont go past 90 deg
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boozeclues
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Miter wont go past 90 deg
so im sure this is a dumb question but the shopsmith gauge wont go past 90 on the one side. theres that metal block with the adjustment screws there. how do i get it so i can make a miter joint when cutting something like moulding where its not flat on both sides.
Btw im new to shopsmith. I just bought a greenie that runs (after i replaced the switch to a high amp one)and is rust free
Btw im new to shopsmith. I just bought a greenie that runs (after i replaced the switch to a high amp one)and is rust free
Hi,
I read your post and I think that you are referring to the miter gauge not going past 90 deg on one side. If this is correct that when you loosen the lock knob and the protractor head will not move to one side then you will have to check the stop pin in the head of the miter gauge. There is a pin that sets the protractor to 90, 45 left and 45 right under the handle of the miter guage. If this pin is stuck then you can only move the protractor in one direction, the other direction of movement will be blocked by the pin to establish the 90 deg angle.
If you have a manual you can check in the alignment section that describes setting the miter gauge stops and you will see the pin that I am referring to.
Bill
I read your post and I think that you are referring to the miter gauge not going past 90 deg on one side. If this is correct that when you loosen the lock knob and the protractor head will not move to one side then you will have to check the stop pin in the head of the miter gauge. There is a pin that sets the protractor to 90, 45 left and 45 right under the handle of the miter guage. If this pin is stuck then you can only move the protractor in one direction, the other direction of movement will be blocked by the pin to establish the 90 deg angle.
If you have a manual you can check in the alignment section that describes setting the miter gauge stops and you will see the pin that I am referring to.
Bill
- JPG
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Are there two questions here? if so:boozeclues wrote:so im sure this is a dumb question but the shopsmith gauge wont go past 90 on the one side. theres that metal block with the adjustment screws there. how do i get it so i can make a miter joint when cutting something like moulding where its not flat on both sides.
Btw im new to shopsmith. I just bought a greenie that runs (after i replaced the switch to a high amp one)and is rust free
1)Pull the pin out on the front of the mitergauge. When pushed in, the stop prevents motion in that direction.
2)The molding has flat portions which can be pressed against both the mitergauge and the table.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
A bit of trivia on the Miter gage's stop-pin.
Very old miter-gages (e.g., Greenies) have their stop-pin's flat-face bearing against a roll-pin inside the aluminum block. Newer gages have the stop-pin's flat-face bearing against one of the 2 screws holding the aluminum block onto the miter-bar.
In case of a "jam" inside that aluminum block, the old greenies are a tad harder to service on account of that roll-pin.
Very old miter-gages (e.g., Greenies) have their stop-pin's flat-face bearing against a roll-pin inside the aluminum block. Newer gages have the stop-pin's flat-face bearing against one of the 2 screws holding the aluminum block onto the miter-bar.
In case of a "jam" inside that aluminum block, the old greenies are a tad harder to service on account of that roll-pin.
Chris
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boozeclues
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- mickyd
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boozeclues wrote:thanks for all the responses. if after tinkering i cant get the pin to pull out i think ill just buy a gently used one ........ )
Remember, if you buy one, DON'T discard your old one. There are plenty of folks who would have use for the one you have now. It's functional with a little TLC.
Mike
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boozeclues
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well i fixed it after removing the two screws from the bottom of the bar that attach the block containing the pin, I put the block in my vise and with a little wd-40 and a 2lb hammer gently tapped the pin down then flipped it over the other way and repeated till it went in and out slowly.
works like a charm now!
works like a charm now!
- JPG
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GREAT! Did you need 2# hammer to "tap gently"?;)boozeclues wrote:well i fixed it after removing the two screws from the bottom of the bar that attach the block containing the pin, I put the block in my vise and with a little wd-40 and a 2lb hammer gently tapped the pin down then flipped it over the other way and repeated till it went in and out slowly.
works like a charm now!
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╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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boozeclues
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- Location: Tinley Park IL
[quote="JPG40504"]GREAT! Did you need 2# hammer to "tap gently"?]
LOL probally not but even with the 2lb it took quite a bit of force to get it to break free. the paint on the side that i couldnt over to was completely unscratched which makes me think the pin was never moved to that side by the original owner.
LOL probally not but even with the 2lb it took quite a bit of force to get it to break free. the paint on the side that i couldnt over to was completely unscratched which makes me think the pin was never moved to that side by the original owner.