Shopsmith Forums

I'm using ebony wood plugs to conceal the screw heads in a white oak board. The 5/4 plain sawn board is 56" long and 10 1/2 " wide. The board is used as a decorative cap to a stub wall separating two rooms.

Using the drill press mode of my SS, I drilled 8 holes about 5/8" deep with a 1/4" mortise bit, than drilled each hole thru for the screws. Using a 1/4" plug cutter, I cut the ebony plugs without paying attention how deep (or long) they were relative to the 5/8" deep mortise I made.

I have already stained the board and I am going to finish the board before installing in place. I now realize I didn't leave room for the screw head and when I put the plugs in the holes, they will not be flush with the board.

I'm looking for suggestions on how I can install the plugs flush with the board. The best solution I can think of is to shorten the length of the plugs. But how? I don't really want to deepen the mortise holes for fear of elongating or messing up a perfectly good drilled hole. Suggestions please.

Bob
San Diego

So the problem is once you put the screw in, then put the plug in, the plugs will sit proud?

How about a flush cut hand saw? Then sand (or plane) them flush.

I also use a flush cut saw and then sand the plugs smooth to the table top.

Yes, that is the problem--the plug will sit proud if I leave them the current length. I thought about flush cutting them but that, most likely, will scratch my current stain. I think I need to reduce the length of the plugs before inserting.

It just occurred to me--would it work if i drilled 1/4" holes in a scrap of wood, inserted the plugs leaving them proud by 1/8" and then used the disc sander to remove the 1/8"?

heathicus wrote:So the problem is once you put the screw in, then put the plug in, the plugs will sit proud?

How about a flush cut hand saw? Then sand (or plane) them flush.

Heathicus
you suggested planing the plugs flush. If I used a power planer or even if I used a hand planer, wouldn't that chip or damage the proud plug?

Bob
San Diego

If the depth of your holes is uniform with the screws in them you can drill a hole the size for your plugs and depth you require in some scrap wood. Then using your sanding disk level them to the scrap board. You will need to drill a small hole though the board at the bottom of the hole you made for the plug so you can use a nail or something to push out the plug once it is flush to the surface. The flush cut trim saw is easier if you have one.

rdewinter wrote:Heathicus
you suggested planing the plugs flush. If I used a power planer or even if I used a hand planer, wouldn't that chip or damage the proud plug?

Bob
San Diego

I dunno. I'm new at this too. I'm just throwing out ideas!

There is two ways
One the idea you have about putting them in a holder and sanding them down will work. But if you sand them down too much they may sink into the hole and cause another problem.

The other was put them in the piece then get a cigarette pack's clear plastic wrapper and cut a hole in it and put it over the plug. Then use a saw that has teeth which have no SET and saw them off. The plastic which is very thin will protect your wood and it's finish. Then go back and give each plug an extra rap with your mallet to set them flush.

I have successfully done the above even without the wrapper. I waxed the saw and the wood where I was going to cut and I was able to saw off about 10 plugs perfectly with no damage to wood and the plugs were perfectly set. The success or failure of this resides in the saw. A good super thin blade with no set to the teeth glides scratch free over the wood.

Use a counter-sink that is a smaller diameter than the plug hole and drill the holes little deeper and perhaps use a screw with a smaller diameter head and it will naturally be down more into the hole.
Mark

Just use a layer or two of blue painters tape to cover your finish. The tape will protect the finish as you cut the plugs flush. The blue tape will not leave any residue on the finished surface.