Horizontal boring setup question
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Horizontal boring setup question
I need to bore a 1 1/2” diameter hole about 2” deep through a turned 2 ½” spindle. How do you attach a Jacobs’s chuck (with a spade bit) to the SS tailstock so you can move the quill, where the turned spindle is mounted on a faceplate, through the spade-mounted bit to drill the hole?
I’m making a grommet that fits a hole in the center of a patio table that holds the umbrella. I turned a spindle that is 2 ½” in diameter with a 3 1/4 “ diameter 3/8” thick lip. The lip is to keep the grommet from falling through the tabletop.
My first attempt at creating the grommet was moderately successful. I turned the spindle and then attempted to bore the hole through the grommet using the drill press mode. The hole was not centered. Needless to say, I was not happy!
Suggestions welcome.
I’m making a grommet that fits a hole in the center of a patio table that holds the umbrella. I turned a spindle that is 2 ½” in diameter with a 3 1/4 “ diameter 3/8” thick lip. The lip is to keep the grommet from falling through the tabletop.
My first attempt at creating the grommet was moderately successful. I turned the spindle and then attempted to bore the hole through the grommet using the drill press mode. The hole was not centered. Needless to say, I was not happy!
Suggestions welcome.
Bob
San Diego
San Diego
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Bob, you need a Lathe Arbor. With that, you can attach your Jacobs Chuck to the tail stock, or you can attach your 4-jaw chuck to the tail stock and use the Jacobs chuck on the Quill.
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Aspiring Sandcarver: Breaking glass one grain at a time.
Black Powder Shooter (love the smell of burning sulfur).
Hi, Bob! Two suggestions:
1) Buy a Tail Stock Chuck Arbor http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/dr_tailstock_chuckarbor.htm
2) Fix a handscrew the way Ed (rieble) has shown in another post and use the vertical drill press. https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=68165&postcount=1
1) Buy a Tail Stock Chuck Arbor http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/dr_tailstock_chuckarbor.htm
2) Fix a handscrew the way Ed (rieble) has shown in another post and use the vertical drill press. https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=68165&postcount=1
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Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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Use a Forstner bit. The spade bit will wander severely. I know, they be expensive(the good ones)!
P.S. or you could drill the 'hole' before 'turning'.
P.S. or you could drill the 'hole' before 'turning'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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paulmcohen
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rdewinter wrote:I need to bore a 1 1/2” diameter hole about 2” deep through a turned 2 ½” spindle. How do you attach a Jacobs’s chuck (with a spade bit) to the SS tailstock so you can move the quill, where the turned spindle is mounted on a faceplate, through the spade-mounted bit to drill the hole?
I’m making a grommet that fits a hole in the center of a patio table that holds the umbrella. I turned a spindle that is 2 ½” in diameter with a 3 1/4 “ diameter 3/8” thick lip. The lip is to keep the grommet from falling through the tabletop.
My first attempt at creating the grommet was moderately successful. I turned the spindle and then attempted to bore the hole through the grommet using the drill press mode. The hole was not centered. Needless to say, I was not happy!
Suggestions welcome.
Any Jacobs chuck with a #2 Morse taper will fit in the tailstock. You will also need a 4 jaw chack for the headstock.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
JPG40504 wrote:Use a Forstner bit. The spade bit will wander severely. I know, they be expensive(the good ones)!
Although I have always used Forstner bits for end boring on the lathe, I recall a post from Nick that said Forstners are not designed to be used in end grain. He recommended spade bits with more obtuse angles, you can easily make with a file.
That said, I still use the Forstners and have had no issues, however I don't understand why a spade would wander more, they have a longer side edge than a Forstner. Those edges will ride on the circumference of the hole, thus keeping the bit straighter. -(I think!) Spade bits also usually have a longer spur than most Forstners.
Here's Nick's Post - from 2008 https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=9516&postcount=18
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Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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charlese wrote:Although I have always used Forstner bits for end boring on the lathe, I recall a post from Nick that said Forstners are not designed to be used in end grain. He recommended spade bits with more obtuse angles, you can easily make with a file.
That said, I still use the Forstners and have had no issues, however I don't understand why a spade would wander more, they have a longer side edge than a Forstner. Those edges will ride on the circumference of the hole, thus keeping the bit straighter. -(I think!) Spade bits also usually have a longer spur than most Forstners.
Here's Nick's Post - from 2008 https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=9516&postcount=18
Actually the spade bits ride the circumference, but only contact at two narrow points at a time. A forstner bit will ride the circumference all the way around(that is why it doesn't need a lengthy spur once started). IMHO the BEST bit is an old fashioned auger bit(with plain center spur). It will ride the circumference like a forstner, but can more agressively cut the end grain. They have the outer spurs like a forstner also. But then they have been out of favor due to cost. An old brace type bit with a trued shank and 'unthreaded' center spur will do well.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Hi Bob,rdewinter wrote:I need to bore a 1 1/2” diameter hole about 2” deep through a turned 2 ½” spindle. How do you attach a Jacobs’s chuck (with a spade bit) to the SS tailstock so you can move the quill, where the turned spindle is mounted on a faceplate, through the spade-mounted bit to drill the hole?
I’m making a grommet that fits a hole in the center of a patio table that holds the umbrella. I turned a spindle that is 2 ½” in diameter with a 3 1/4 “ diameter 3/8” thick lip. The lip is to keep the grommet from falling through the tabletop.
My first attempt at creating the grommet was moderately successful. I turned the spindle and then attempted to bore the hole through the grommet using the drill press mode. The hole was not centered. Needless to say, I was not happy!
Suggestions welcome.
I have a tailstock chuck arbor you can borrow if you would like to give it a try before you buy one.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
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SDSSmith wrote:Hi Bob,
I have a tailstock chuck arbor you can borrow if you would like to give it a try before you buy one.
Rob will do anything to get an impressionable shopsmith owner into his lair!:D Wish I was near San Diego!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange