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Sanding
Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 2:21 pm
by paulrussell
I've written before that I've got limited stamina due to a chronic autoimmune disorder called Dermatomyositis. Nothing wears me out faster than sanding, so I'm trying to figure out the most economical ways to sand and finish wood to fine-furniture standards. I realize there is no way to get completely away from sanding, but what I want to do is minimize it.
So far to that end I've acquired standard sanding disk with velcro set, a conical sanding disk, and a SS belt sander with a variety of grits. I"ve also a set of cabinet scrapers and am accumulating/restoring a basic set of quality planes.
I've seen the SandFlee, but its cost is currently a barrier, but the v sander seems like a possibility.
The problem is that I don't know enough to formulate a good plan, and I don't have the endurance to try out a bunch of options to see what works best for me. So any hints/tips/etc are much appreciated.
Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 3:52 pm
by Gene Howe
My V Sander is the Bee's knees.
You can build it to include a port for a vac or DC hose. I didn't and the dust just collects in the box and I vacuum it out occasionally.
Mine is a stand alone, but it can be built to use the SS for power, saving the cost of the motor.
Anything you want to know about construction/operation, I can
probably help. It ain't brain surgery, or I'd never been able to build it.

Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 4:40 pm
by mickyd
Soooo, what's a V sander?

Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 6:07 pm
by paulrussell
mickyd wrote:Soooo, what's a V sander?

V sander
Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 8:31 pm
by charlese
I see you have a planer. With use of the planer to get all boards of a project the same thickness, you shouldn't have to do much sanding until the project is assembled. At least that's the way I do it.
Most of my sanding is done after assembly. I bought a cheap Ryobi "Corner Cat" a few years ago and it is still running! I'll use various grits (as available from Home Depot) down to 150. Easy paper changes as the machine has velcro and paper comes with a cloth back. Before finishing I'll use 220 with the grain - on a wood sanding block (sometimes padded with felt). Doesn't take much.
Best Wishes!
Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 9:16 pm
by fjimp
Paul,
The Sand Flee and the V sander seem to have numerous similarities. The fixed income piece is about to smack me in the face. Currently I have energy limitations that force me to decide which ideas and projects allow me the best use of energy. I love my sand flee. I doubt seriously I would be willing to invest energy in the V sander if weighing that against other projects I have on the to do list. I wish you the best of luck and know you will make the choice which best suits your energy level, finances and priorities. Good Luck, Jim
Right here...
Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 12:50 pm
by robedney
There's a thread right here on this forum that describes building a V sander/Sand Flea like device to be powered by your SS. I've been reading it with interest, and will likely follow suit. It's done appropriately on the cheap -- using pvc pipe and off the shelf bearings. The only downside I can see here is that the pvc pipe might not totally prove-out, but that's an easy modification later. Check it out:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=5342
Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 1:15 pm
by Ed in Tampa
Paul
Using a plane (hand or power), cabinet scraper, jointer should produce a burished surface that doesn't have to be sanded.
Many of the fine furniture craftsmen will argue that sanding reduces the surface prep rather than enhancing it. Hand planing and using a cabinet scraper should produce a surface that if it needs anything might need roughing up a little to make the finish adhere.
Also don't forget about sanding sealer. It is a lot easier to sand paint than it is even soft wood. To many times hobbiest try to sand away normal wood openings (pores) instead of filling them.
Also don't try to achieve a mirror like finish with the first coat of finish. Apply several coats, let them dry totally ( often more an 24 hours) and then sand the finish to a mirror like lustre instead of trying to get the wood that way to start with. Again it is easier to sand finish than wood.
Make sure you know how to use a cabinet scraper and hand plane. If you get them right you can pretty much tose your sand paper. But I'm not sure what is easier guideing a power sander or using a cabinet scrapper.
Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 3:31 pm
by paulrussell
Thank you to all who have replied. It's difficult to reply with quotes when I'm using my cell phone (now) so I apologize for not naming all names.
WellM for now my plan is to see how far I get following Ed's advice. I recently reconditioned a Stanley 4 smoothing plane and have a 9 1/2 block plane on the way.
For those of you savy to the ways of the plane, is there much to be gained from adding a #5 or a low-angle block plane?
I saw a beautiful low-angle block plane that has optional tote & knob for use as a small smoothing plane as well, but it was not cheap. I think the brand was Varitas or something like that.
Lifting a sandflee or v-sander around might be every bit as tiring as using a small plane, and I can sit on the porch with the latter.
As far as sealer - I am assuming this is for the so-callled 'open grain' woods? Or can all benefit to some degree?
Again my thanks for a lot of terrific advice.
Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 3:36 pm
by paulrussell
A bit of an aside - I have a hard time feeling too bad about my health. It is what it is, and although the limitations are considerable, if not for my disability I wouldn't have the time for this wonderful passtime.