This is an indulgence I waited for, for some time....
- My best piece of Cocobolo, selected to show inner and outer woods
- Bored 10mm holes with Power Pro, an exceptionally effective drill operation using the built-in Speed Chart
- Penn State Big Ben Rhodium plated kit
- Sanded to 600 grit, then EEE-Ultra Shine Paste Wax*, then Shellawax liquid
* I put off this expensive little tub for years. Wow, it does work!
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKSWEEE.html
- Dust mask on the whole time just in case I'm allergic
- Soothing quiet Power Pro sound during the turning
[ATTACH]10485[/ATTACH]
Pen from Power Pro
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RobertTaylor
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:28 am
- Location: North Canton, Ohio
Come to think of it, yes! However on pens I usually do lengthwise manual sanding after rotary sanding for each grit, too. The cocobolo was super-smooth; probably a coarser-grained wood would show off the reverse sanding's benefits better.charlese wrote:Pretty pen Chris!!! Did you use the reverse sanding too?
Chris
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horologist
- Gold Member
- Posts: 431
- Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2007 6:36 pm
- Location: Melrose, FL
Chris,
Nice pen, I expect we all have wood waiting for just the right project.
Reverse sanding is a new one for me, a quick Google search didn't yield much. For some it is merely putting the lathe in reverse while hand sanding, with no mention of how or why this is beneficial.
Others (bowl turners) do it while sanding in the lathe with a power sander, reversing both the power sander and lathe rotation between grits. This is to change the pattern of scratches between grits, ensuring that the scratches are removed instead of being reinforced. This at least makes sense to me.
If you are using scrapers on end grain I suppose the tool could be pushing the fibers of the wood down, then sanding lightly in the same direction might not remove this condition allowing the fibers could pop back up during finishing?
Can you (or anyone else) explain this further?
Troy
Nice pen, I expect we all have wood waiting for just the right project.
Reverse sanding is a new one for me, a quick Google search didn't yield much. For some it is merely putting the lathe in reverse while hand sanding, with no mention of how or why this is beneficial.
Others (bowl turners) do it while sanding in the lathe with a power sander, reversing both the power sander and lathe rotation between grits. This is to change the pattern of scratches between grits, ensuring that the scratches are removed instead of being reinforced. This at least makes sense to me.
If you are using scrapers on end grain I suppose the tool could be pushing the fibers of the wood down, then sanding lightly in the same direction might not remove this condition allowing the fibers could pop back up during finishing?
Can you (or anyone else) explain this further?
Troy
The best equipped laundry room in the neighborhood...
Here is something quoted from Issue 9 of Woodturning Design magazine (Ask Dale):horologist wrote:
Reverse sanding is a new one for me, a quick Google search didn't yield much. For some it is merely putting the lathe in reverse while hand sanding, with no mention of how or why this is beneficial.
Others (bowl turners) do it while sanding in the lathe with a power sander, reversing both the power sander and lathe rotation between grits. This is to change the pattern of scratches between grits, ensuring that the scratches are removed instead of being reinforced. This at least makes sense to me.
If you are using scrapers on end grain I suppose the tool could be pushing the fibers of the wood down, then sanding lightly in the same direction might not remove this condition allowing the fibers could pop back up during finishing?
Can you (or anyone else) explain this further?
Troy
Q: I have a “reversing” feature on my lathe, which allows me to change its direction of spin. Short of sanding, is this a practical feature? How safe is it to turn “backwards”?
A: Reversing a faceplate turning is usually done during the sanding process. This technique was introduced to the American woodturning scene about 30 years ago. While sanding, the rotation causes some of the flat grain fibers to lay down rather than being cut off by the abrasive paper. Spinning the bowl in reverse will cause these fibers to be cut off and produce a smoother surface for finishing. However, be sure that the chuck or faceplate does not unscrew from the spindle. Be sure the chuck is on really tight or, better yet, add a set screw to the chuck or faceplate to lock them onto the lathe spindle.
At the 2005 AAW symposium, I watched a turner using the reverse technique for hollowing out hollow forms. Because this is a scraping technique, there is no problem with getting in position to rub the bevel and shear cut as when using a gouge. For reverse turning, the cutter is mounted similarly in the positions used for regular turning, only the cutting area is on the back inside of the hollow form. This allows the tool handle to be positioned toward the front of the lathe, making for less leaning and reaching and providing a more comfortable position as well as a better view of the cutting tool. Some people with shoulder problems have adopted the reverse procedure because it better meets their needs.
Keep in mind that this method requires scraping tools and technique as well as the set screws installed in the chuck or faceplate to prevent the set up from spinning off the spindle. Safety is a primary concern when reverse turning or sanding!"
All of the above reminds me, with a Mark V or a Mark 7.... the tool-rest options are many -- with 2 holes in the carriage.
Chris