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Center the saw blade
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 2:06 pm
by sawlab
I just got a hand me down Mark V 6 weeks ago. Playing with to get used to using how it works so far. One thing that would be nice is way to auto stop the headstock on the way tube that would center the saw blade in the saw insert. My idea is to cut a peace of PVC and slide it on the way tube between the headstock and end peace.
sawlab
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 2:12 pm
by wa2crk
Sawlab;
There should be a rubber ring on the machine that will do just what you want to do. The ring will be on the lower rear tube as you face the machine. It provides a cushion to prevent metal to metal contact between the headstock and the table carriage as well as indexing the blade. It should be available from Shopsmith direct or the PVC will work ok but not provide as much cushion.
Bill V
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 2:28 pm
by sawlab
Thanks Bill V,
Should have known SS would have some thing like it. I will get one from SS.
My SS is a 1953 vintage and was sitting in storage for some 15 years. I have spent a lot of time bring up to spec. and I am about to start doing my first project.
Sawlab
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 2:34 pm
by dusty
sawlab wrote:I just got a hand me down Mark V 6 weeks ago. Playing with to get used to using how it works so far. One thing that would be nice is way to auto stop the headstock on the way tube that would center the saw blade in the saw insert. My idea is to cut a peace of PVC and slide it on the way tube between the headstock and end peace.
sawlab
The one that Bill refers to is known as a Carriage Stop Ring and its part number is 516667 and it sells for $2.99.
I thank you for posting this question. I need to order one along with the various labels for a unit that I am reassembling.
Opps. That may be the wrong part number. I don't know if this part is the same on older vintage machines. Shopsmith customer service will be able to help. 1-800-543-7586.
Just found
this thread, same subject. The other part number is 504165 (which has now been changed to 516666).
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 3:27 pm
by SDSSmith
sawlab wrote:Thanks Bill V,
Should have known SS would have some thing like it. I will get one from SS.
My SS is a 1953 vintage and was sitting in storage for some 15 years. I have spent a lot of time bring up to spec. and I am about to start doing my first project.
Sawlab
On the earlier vintages like those from 1953 the spacing was provide by an headless screw and jamb nut screwed into the carriage (facing the headstock). I have seen quite a few carriages with a piece broken out in this area because of hard contact between the headstock and carriage. The stop ring was and is an improvement over the original design.
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 8:32 pm
by mickyd
SDSSmith wrote:On the earlier vintages like those from 1953 the spacing was provide by an headless screw and jamb nut screwed into the carriage (facing the headstock). I have seen quite a few carriages with a piece broken out in this area because of hard contact between the headstock and carriage. The stop ring was and is an improvement over the original design.
Wonder how many you saw that were broken and repaired but you didn't even know it, like
this one.
Black 2" ABS works really well.
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 10:40 pm
by allsas
2" ID Black ABS pipe, 1 1/2" long, works very well when its cut to length and about 45 degrees / 360 degrees cut out of the cylinder. The cut out allows you to slip it over the way tube (to put it on) and take it off when you need to move the headstock right next to the carriage for lathe operations.
Better than the real thing. IMHO.
Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 10:20 am
by sawlab
Good Morning All,
Thanks for the input it was a big help.
Collectively all you all know everything there is to know about the SS. I wish I had found this web site 6 weeks ago when I got my SS, I would have saved my self a ton of time and some money.
I have had to modify my SS. I live life in a wheelchair so working with a SS is to tall for me. An example would be when using the SS as a table saw I was working around 42” high. That but it at the level just blow my face and my arms were at shoulder level, a very unsafe working posture.
I cut 10” out of the center of the legs. By doing this I was able to keep the top and bottom of the leg geometry so it bolted on as designed and the caster setup still work.
It looks a little goofy but it works well and is much safer.
I notated there are a lot of you with a military background. I want to thank you for your serves and keeping us free.
Sawlab
Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 10:33 am
by mickyd
sawlab,
Great that you were able to develop alternatives to help you get around your situation. Where there is a will, there is a way.
Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 1:12 pm
by beeg
Sawlab, just to let ya know. There's a lift-assist ya can get get to make it easier to go to the vertical mode.