Shopsmith Forums

beeg wrote:I have 4 table legs to taper on the inside of the leg. The legs now are 2.75 inches square and 36 inches long. The feet need to be 1.5 inches square and tapered on 2 insides to zero at 30 inches from the feet. I thinking of doing this on the TS or BS. Any suggestions on how to do this?

I vote for the bandsaw!

Start with a 'scrap'(sacrificial) rectangular board 30" long and at least 2" wide. Cut a wedge shape from one end to a point 1 1/4' in from the same edge. Thus the board will be 1 1/4" narrower 30" from the opposite end.

Place the wedge(now a taper jig!) between the fence and the workpiece. Position all that so the blade will enter the workpiece at the 30" position. The narrow end of the wedge is pointing towards the in feed direction. The workpiece will exit the blade at the 1 1/2" cut line. Do this on the side that will NOT need to be flat against the table for the 'second' cut.

Make sure the 'wedge' does not move relative to the workpiece while cutting the tapers.

Orrrr if you be more adventurous, cut the first free hand, and use the cutoff as a 'wedge' for the rest!:D

I've had good luck with the Rockler Precision Taper Jig. At less than $25 it isn't too expensive, it's reusable, and it can be adjusted for different taper angles as required.

I've never had any luck with table saw taper jigs.

As a matter of fact, I'm just completing a 48"x33" sewing table with 29" legs tapered on two sides. I drew my saw line and cut down it on the bandsaw. With a 5/8" wide blade I can cut a surprisingly straight line. I then took the cut edges and cleaned up the saw marks on the jointer, set to take off only about 1/32"

I couldn't be happier with the result.

Another way to do this is on the tablesaw. You want to make a sled using plywood, MDF, or solid wood that is longer than your table legs and about 6" wide, although it can be narrower or wider.

If using a 6" wide piece of plywood, set the rip fence at something like 5 7/8" and make a rip cut. Now all you have to do is line up one of your legs at the desired taper along that freshly cut edge of your sled, attach some scrap wood to it to keep your legs in place, leave the saw fence in place, and cut away. You'll get consistent results with very little cleanup required. Turn the leg 90 degrees and make the second cut.

You'll want support behind the leg along its length and also a cleat to hold the bottom of the leg as well. A couple of toggle clamps to hold the leg to your sled would also be advisable.

I see that you have a jointer. With an auxillary fence equipped with a stop block you could taper the legs with your jointer. It is explained in PTWFE here: http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/jointers/#tapering . Merry Christmas - Alec