Shopsmith Forums

Is there any reason I couldn't use a metal blade on the bandsaw? I want to be able to cut out knife blanks on it if possible.
S.

I cut aluminum all the time. Metal - I don't see why not if the speed is compatible. With an appropriate blade, what is the correct speed to cut the metal you have in mind.

You said knife blades - tempered????

I don't believe that the Shopsmith, or any other woodworking bandsaw, would be suitable for cutting high carbon steel. I have used the bandsaw on aluminum and brass, and frankly think that even brass is too much.

8iowa wrote:I don't believe that the Shopsmith, or any other woodworking bandsaw, would be suitable for cutting high carbon steel. I have used the bandsaw on aluminum and brass, and frankly think that even brass is too much.

I amcurious as to why you believe this. What characteristic of a metal cutting bandsaw is missing?

I have never used a bandsaw that was designed and built specifically for metal. Other than big and heavy -= What is a metal cutting bandsaw?

The blades wouldn't be tempered until after. I would be cutting mostly O1 tool steel, 4-6mm.

I would put a metal specific bandsaw blade on for this operation

S.

Edit: I found a 520 Shop Smith locally with 9 attachments including the band saw, planer, dust collector, etc. He is asking $2k... Is that reasonable?

From what I observed while working in maintenance in the auto industry, we had band saws for cutting metal which the blade was continuously cooled with a cooling solution. This was done from thin metal such as Unistrut channel (about 12 gauge) to steel channels anywhere from maybe 1/8" and up. Generally for aluminium, we would use Milwaukee portable band saws with metal blades. I believe that without a cooling method, the blade would wear out very fast, but I am definitely not an expert in this field. I am sure that someone on this forum is knowledgeable about what you can do with the SS band saw for the issue in question

sharp21 wrote:Is there any reason I couldn't use a metal blade on the bandsaw? I want to be able to cut out knife blanks on it if possible.
S.

Some months ago in Home Shop Machinist magazine, a gentleman wrote to the editor with a picture of his SS Bandsaw successfully (and deliberately slowly) cutting some steel metal 1-2 inches thick, using the Speed Reducer accessory to slow the blade-speed. I think he used a special blade, too.

The Shopsmith at 700rpm (slowest speed) is way too fast to drive a metal cutting blade. You might get away with it using a speed reducer. My metal cutting bandsaw, a so called 4x6, runs the blade at 200 ft per min, max. I run it without any cooling fluids. I recommend getting one of the 4x6s (best tool in my shop short of my two 510s), designed for metal rather than trying to cut steel with a SS saw. Go here to see a 4x6:
http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/minibandsaw01.html
A few differences from the SS unit: steel wheels without rubber tires, capable of high tension in the metal cutting blade, vise to clamp the work piece and saw moves during the cut unless you use it in vertical position, gearbox to reduce speed built in, steel work table, very rugged blade guides.

beeg wrote:The problem I see is cleaning the tires of all the metal fragments. Also ya wood knot want it hooked up to the DC either.

I use my bandsaw and table saw to cut aluminum and I do connect the ShopVac while doing so. BUT I ALSO EMPTY THE SHOPVAC before I cut.

I do not use the DC to collect metal shavings from any source.

After cutting aluminum on the bandsaw, I clean the tires before using the bandsaw again. I clean the tires first with a brush that resembles a toothbrush. Then I use a credit card like device to finish removing the metal filings from the tires.