Shopsmith Forums

Greetings Shopsmith Friends and Journeymen,:)

I've had my MarkV for 9 years, and I've done nice work using the table saw, jointer, disk sander, lathe, borer, drill press, biscuit joiner, et al.

My Achillles heal... I am totally baffled by the bad saw. In 9 years I've logged maybe 20 minutes on the darn thing, and still haven't made a straight cut.

I've watched every video on the internet (Shopsmith, youtube, etc.), I've aligned my fence for drift numerous times, I've over-tightened and under-tightened my blade aplenty, I've sped up and slowed down, bought a new blade, aligned my coolblocks, you name it. Every time I crank it up, the blade goes into the wood, starts bowing and bending to the outside (left to right) and eventually bides up.

I have lots of small mesquite logs that I would like to resaw into 1" stock for segmented turning and endgrain cutting boards. I mounted on small log on a rudimentary sled this morning, went thru the whole routine once again, with the same result--a blade bending to the outside and binding
Please help me out before I turn the darn thing into a cactus planter.

Many thanks,

gr8mesquite

Hi and Welcome!

Sorry to hear about your frustration. Can you let us know the blade type(s) you're trying? To include the teeth-per-inch and the blade width, at least. You'll probably get something helpful when the responses come in.

Shopsmith F. 555421
5/8-inch Woodcutting Blade
3-4 Variable TPI


Thanks

Mesquite is a tough test. Do you experience the same problems if cutting lesser woods?

If you remove the fence and cut free hand do you experience problems; can you cut a straight line rip freehand?

Where do you live that you have a stock of mesquite to cut?

Dusty,

In response to your questions, in order:

Yes, I've tried resawing softer woods (not logs) and had the same result. The blade keeps moving to the outside until it binds.

Tough to freehand a round log...I need one flat side, which is what I was trying to do.

I live in Tucson, AZ. Mesquite is readily available in many forms--logs, boards, dressed, undressed, etc. I've made many beautiful things out of mesquite...it's a gr8 wood.

My initial thought was that you have either a drift problem or the blade is under tensioned. However, you say this is a problem that has persisted over time and that you have adjusted tension and used different blades with the same result.

It still sounds to me like a tension problem. Yous description of the blade bowing and bending is what throws me. Since the blade is pulled down through the stock there is no obvious reason for it to bow or bend.

With no blade installed, do both wheels spin freely; especially the lower wheel?

Rhetorical Questions: Are all yours guide bearings in place and properly adjusted? Are the cool blocks in good condition and properly adjusted? Are the tires in good condition?

If you open this link ,you will find a resawing tutorialthat explains what you are experiencing and how to correct it. I have also faced your problem and found that you can get it right but it will take a few trial cuts and drift adjustments. When you get close, the adjustments have to be very small or you will overshoot the other way.

Sounds like you're near some of the AZ experts on this forum, which will help!

One AZ member has posted some mesquite work; he did mention it dulls his blades pretty fast. I think he's traveling on vacation this week:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=5701

By the way, the Shopsmith blades do run on the thick-kerf side. A thin-kerf like a Timber Wolf may cut down the workload on your machine. But I digress and I'm shot-gunning a solution idea. One of the members may be able to visit you for a more accurate diagnosis .

I had the same issues with bowing and drift on a resaw cut. Two things that have helped are a resaw fence (you can buy or build one), and the Carter roller guides. Search the forums - many have had success with the Carter guides, others with using ceramic guides.

A resaw fence lets you compensate for drift, and keep the blade on the line. Don't force the wood - let the blade do the work.

My next "upgrade" is to install double bearings for the upper and lower backup bearings. There was a recent thread about this. I've got the parts, I just need to set aside some time to do it.

michaeltoc wrote:I had the same issues with bowing and drift on a resaw cut. Two things that have helped are a resaw fence (you can buy or build one), and the Carter roller guides. Search the forums - many have had success with the Carter guides, others with using ceramic guides.

A resaw fence lets you compensate for drift, and keep the blade on the line. Don't force the wood - let the blade do the work.

My next "upgrade" is to install double bearings for the upper and lower backup bearings. There was a recent thread about this. I've got the parts, I just need to set aside some time to do it.

I understand (I think) the stated purpose of the Carter Guides but I still need some help.

How do the Carter Guides relate to (serve to correct) the problem stated in the beginning of this thread (first post)?