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set up/conversion problems
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 9:01 pm
by timmartel
I recently inherited a shopsmith MK V. It was purchased in 1982. I am having difficulty with two things: how do i get the extended table off and how do I convert the system to a drill press? It appears that the legs of the extended table are preventing the conversion to drill press.
WOW! Thanks for the quick reply.
Tim Martel
I have another question, I have a lathe tool rest and specialty rests but see nothing to attach them to the lathe so i can start turning. Is saomething missing?
Tim
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 9:49 pm
by JPG
There is what 'appears' like a knurled 'handle' between the legs of the extension table.
Actually it is a clamp. Depending upon how it was installed rotating it one direction or the other will release the table tubes and they will slide up and out.
Then it will raise to vertical. Be sure to screw in the locking screw once raised. Do not be concerned that the screw is not centered in the large 'dimple'. It is supposed to be off center!
Welcome to the funny fa...forum!:)
Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 5:33 am
by jm51
Why is it supposed to be off centre?
Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 6:26 am
by michaeltoc
jm51 wrote:Why is it supposed to be off centre?
The bevel of the dimple and bevel of the screw act as a wedge to better secure the raised headstock.
Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 8:48 am
by dusty
jm51 wrote:Why is it supposed to be off centre?
I have asked that question too and though I have received an answer the same as JPGs - I still wonder why offset is better than inline.
Maybe I would understand if I was an ME.
Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 8:48 am
by JPG
michaeltoc wrote:The bevel of the dimple and bevel of the screw act as a wedge to better secure the raised headstock.
Those bevels force the setup to the most upright position and prevent any slipping away from upright.
Set Up/Conversion Problems
Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 8:59 am
by timmartel
Thank you very much JPG. It works great!!!
Tim Martel
Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:08 am
by michaeltoc
dusty wrote:I still wonder why offset is better than inline.
If the locking screw were inline, you would need to sock it down pretty tight to eliminate any play - requiring a screwdriver or hex key (picture a countersunk screw).
Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:42 am
by JPG
michaeltoc wrote:If the locking screw were inline, you would need to sock it down pretty tight to eliminate any play - requiring a screwdriver or hex key (picture a countersunk screw).
The large beveled surface on the hinge casting can be significantly misaligned and still work as intended. A smaller detenting surface would need to be located with much greater precision and a hole would be much more likely to 'jam'(and wear to the point of being sloppy ).
P.S. Later 'versions' actually use a hex socketed cap screw!!!
Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 12:04 pm
by dusty
JPG40504 wrote:The large beveled surface on the hinge casting can be significantly misaligned and still work as intended. A smaller detenting surface would need to be located with much greater precision and a hole would be much more likely to 'jam'(and wear to the point of being sloppy ).
P.S. Later 'versions' actually use a hex socketed cap screw!!!
A hex socketed cap screw is what both of mine have but I DO NOT USE a tool to tighten it down. Finger tight if I tighten it at all. Keep in mind that it is weighted, in the vertical position with the table installed, to continue moving to the right. The only way it might come down unintentionally is if you bump it.
OR stumble and try to catch yourself using the drill press to do so. As an older fart, I have to think that way. I have been known to stumble or trip over my shadow as it is.
