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a simple solution
Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:00 pm
by tomsalwasser
Greetings Woodworkers,
This very simple technique allows me to more accurately staple the drawer bottom support. I hope you find it useful.
Best,
Tom
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7005/6425 ... f121_z.jpg
Interesting
Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 8:23 pm
by fiatben
Does this assume your bench is level and your eyes not so good? I can see where this would be really good off-bench, say on a jobsite when it's hard to visually line things up.
Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 8:30 pm
by JPG
Reminds me of a drill I had several years back. The spirit level built in never became popular.
Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 5:08 am
by tomsalwasser
fiatben wrote:Does this assume your bench is level and your eyes not so good? I can see where this would be really good off-bench, say on a jobsite when it's hard to visually line things up.
Ben, I need to keep the gun level because the drawer bottom support stick is only 1/4" thick and any deflection up or down sends the staple into the drawer bottom or through the stick. You'd think it would be easy to eyeball level but to do so requires me to drop my head way down to the level of the gun, which is awkward at best. I like keeping my face away from the action too.
Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 5:12 am
by tomsalwasser
JPG40504 wrote:Reminds me of a drill I had several years back. The spirit level built in never became popular.
Yes the built-ins don't ever seem to be where you need them. The rubber band holds the line level just right. I did get inspired to buy a small magnetic pocket level; I hope it works...it should arrive in a few days.
Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 5:35 am
by dusty
I have a lot of trouble with blow out; especially when using longer staples/nails. It is not just alignment of the gun however. Wood grain characteristics have a lot to do with it.
I am very careful about where and when I use my pin nailer for this very reason.
Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 11:13 am
by fixit
The following information may help reduce the problems with blowout with pneumatic nailers. It helped me.
[ATTACH]14930[/ATTACH]
Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 12:05 pm
by dusty
Good info - if I can just remember to apply it.
Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 1:37 pm
by JPG
Reminds me of an old 'trick' with 4 sided brad points. Cut them off with diagonal cutters which results in a two faced blunter chisel point that will tear rather than split.
I can just see some future archeologist concluding the age of an item secured with the brad 'gun' because of the square shape of the 'hand wrought nails'.
