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New Saw Blades
Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 11:02 pm
by aloibl
I have been practicing with my Shopsmith for about a year now trying to learn the basics of woodworking. I was using the sawblades that came with the used unit. I just received a new set of Shopsmith saw blades for Christmas and was able to use them the first time yesterday and extensively today. OMG!!! They cut like butter compared to the blades that I had. Smooth cuts, easy to push the wood through and no binding. Like a new machine!! Should have had the old blades sharpened before I started using them at the very least.
Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 10:23 pm
by trainguytom
Every Shopsmith I've bought seems to come with one & usually more saw blades. Many machines, and probably most, have been "greenies" or "goldies" and the blades are not carbide tipped blades. All those blades have been pretty dull but still cut. Whenever I've redone a machine & sold it, I've sent it out the door with a re-sharpened older SS blade. The guys who have these machines are always amazed at how well they cut.
If you have a local saw sharpener, I'd sharpen them & keep them. They're good quality & will serve you well.
Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 10:54 pm
by swampgator
What I first did with all the used bladed I acquired was to give them an ammonia bath. Let then stand in pure ammonia for about 24 hours. You'll be amazed at what comes off and how new they will look. Then I put a coat of Johnson's Paste wax on them and try them. If they cut like new, I'm good, else, to the sharpening shop. Just my experience.
Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 1:07 pm
by trainguytom
I've not used ammonia. I have done an acid & steel wool massage and if there's light rust (the badly pitted ones are tossed) I use the electrolytic rust removal process. I use that on a lot of old SS parts. It works wonders. (If you're not familiar, Google it for an explanation). There's a guy in my area that sharpens non carbide blades for around $8-9. That's a cheap way to get good cutting.
Johnson's paste wax ought be on the short list of fix-alls along with duct tape & WD-40. Have a great weekend.
Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 1:13 pm
by JPG
Tried oven cleaner?
a.k.a/ Lye!
EDIT: See the next post!!!!!!!!
Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 3:27 pm
by swampgator
Oven cleaner works well on steel blades, but not on carbon teeth that are attached to the steel. Oven cleaner and such can weaken the attachment, that will cause the blade to throw teeth. You don't want to be anywhere around when that starts.
One note of caution on using ammonia, it will remove all lettering and any type of colored impressions. When I take mine out of the bath, I use a sharpie to re-label. But, ammonia will not weaken the attachment of the teeth to the blade.
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 1:30 am
by charlese
Want a blade cleaner that will do the job with absolutely no hazards? Put some liquid dish soap in a pan with water. Soak for a while than brush with a tooth brush or other soft brush. I use Dawn, water and a hand brush.
P.S. Whoops! Now the brand name of the soap I use has been corrected to Dawn.
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 12:29 pm
by trainguytom
There some commercially available blade "clean-r-uppers" in spray form. I got a couple of cans on a closeout one time at a woodworking store. Worked well, but I don't think I'd spend retail on them when where are a bunch of "home brews" that do the job as well.
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 4:10 pm
by beeg
trainguytom wrote:There some commercially available blade "clean-r-uppers" in spray form.
I CAN'T justify buying those cleaners. Today I was hand washing some plastic bowls and threw in my plywood blade to soak for awhile. Then used a scrubber to wipe em clean. An easy and cheap method that works well and as Chuck said. "...will do the job with absolutely no hazards?"
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 8:54 pm
by robinson46176
Just curious, anybody ever just stick one in the dishwasher?
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