harvey101871
I bought my Shopsmith just last February;and I like it alot. Unfortunately, I'm still in the process of setting up my wood working shop. I recently built a three car garage and my shop is the third stall that is soon to be petetioned off to help reduce sawdust on the vehicles. Since I receive my shopsmith I have only been able to do small projects. Since all I have to work with is my Shopsmith and a Craftsman mitre saw. I have mostly been using them to cut down scrap wood that I use for firewood.
Okay, here is my problem... The other day I was trying to rip cut construction grade 2 inch x 10 inch x 8 feet boards to use as concrete forms for steps. And my saw blade ( which is the factory combo blade that came with my Shopsmith) was acting very sluggish and not wanting to cut easily through the boards and it even started smoking some towards the end!?
I had my neighbor come look at it and he said the blade (which is a carbiide tip blade) still felt and looked sharp but that it might have gummed up or pitch ( I think he called it) built up on the blade. Someone mentioned something about soaking the blade in a solution to remove the film or pitch. But I thought I better ask the experts. Especially since I'm just getting started as a woodworker.
Any help solving this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
An inexperience fellow woodworker.
Bruce
Pine has a lot of pitch in it which will build up on a blade very quickly. There are commercial pitch removers you can get, but many woodworkers use oven cleaner. Whatever you use, use it in a well ventilated location and where rubber gloves because all of these cleaners contain caustic chemicals.
Another thing to consider is whether your SS is getting enough current to run at it's maximum power. If you use an extension cord, use the shortest one possible that is at least a 12 gauge wire. Also, be sure you are plugged in to a 20 amp circuit.
Are the 2x10's you're cutting straight? If they aren't, the kerf may be closing up and binding the blade as you cut.
Lastly, invest in a good quality thin-kerf carbide blade for cutting 2-by stock. The SS is a little underpowered for cutting thick stock with a standard 1/8 inch blade, but you'll be amazed at what a thin-kerf blade will do for it's power.
Anonymous
I agree with batg4 but I'd go for the new thin kerf blade first. I used SS blades for years and when I switched to a Forrest WWII, I was amazed at the difference. It was the single most important change I've made to my SS in 22 years.
And I'm one of those woodworkers who buys real blade clearner. I've tried Simple Green and over clearner and have not found them effective or easy to use. Rockler makes a decent blade cleaner but my favorite is Empire. I got mine at Woodcraft.
chip
Saw blades are a science unto themselves. Good ones are not cheap. SS blades are good for only one thing...hanging on the wall. First thing I did when I bought my second SS is ordered the 5/8 saw arbor and then spent the money to buy better blades. Hardware stores are carrying a better selection these days as we woodworkers are increasing in numbers. As for cleaning the blade what I do is reach for the turpintine and an old tooth brush. This has worked for me for many years. As for burning the wood when cutting. Saw may be running to slow or the fence is not parallel at the front and rear (outfeed). this will bind the wood and cause burning. When ripping the board watch the kerf on the outfeed end, if it is pinching together you may have to adjust the outfeed end of the fence to be offset away from the blade just a bit and that should releive the problem. Oh, I do use the SS blade when cutting junk wood. Don't want to use my better blades.
robg
How much, approximately, do these other saw blades cost? Just curious - I haven't had any trouble with the combo blade yet.
Bruce
You can get the Forrest WWII for $80.25 at this
site. That's about the cheapest I have found it. Also, they will bore the arbor to 1 1/4" for a small fee if you don't have a 5/8" arbor. If you go with the 5/8" arbor, they recommend a stiffener. I have one bored to 1 1/4" and don't see a need for the stiffener.
billr64
I spent less than $100.00 to have the WWII shipped to Texas that included the boaring charge.
ssj1
has anyone any experience with the Sistimatic blades?
scottss
Check out the porter cable razor its variable spaced teeth. I use it for ripping and crosscutting price is under $30 at home depot. Also if you can find the B&D Piranha its priced at under $20. I use it in my chop saw and cut oak and maple with no problems. I have bought expensive blades and my experience is they aren't any better than the cheap ones.:eek:
robg
Wow. I don't have experience with Home Depot saw blades, but I have found most of their tools to be sub-par. They work, but they are not high grade tools. It's not like harbor freight (where you feel lucky if the tool works a second time, but they are so cheap that's ok), but it's not snap on, for example, either.
ricknwood
I'm an Academy instructor and am asked this question often.The other owners have offered you some good advise but I might add a few. First, make sure you are using a 3/32" blade. The difference between a 1/8" blade and a 3/32" blade is exceptionally important for us Shopsmith owners as our headstock motor at 1 1/8 hp is much smaller that say a unisaw at 3 hp. Engineers say that the difference the smaller kerf makes will make the motor seem as if it has 1/3 more hp. That's significant! Second, make sure you have a 20 amp circuit as suggested and if you are pulling through an extension cord, make sure it is a large gauge. Also use the shortest cord possible. Your 20 amp circuit should be designated for shopsmith only. Do not have your over head lights or garage door opener on the same circuit as your machine will shut down as you over load it. Third, use Top -Cote made by Bostik. This can be sprayed on each side of your blade while the machine is running. This cuts down the friction. Forth, make sure your table is not raked into or away from the blade. This information is covered in the Help Kit. And forth, after you have found that your table is aliened correctly, make sure your fence is parrell to your miter track on the table top. Fifth, if your blade gets gumed up, use Simply Green as recomended to clean the pitch. And last but not least, COME TO A TRAVELING ACADEMY!!!!!!!!! You can find our schedule online under education. Hope this helps you. Happy Trails Fellow Woodworker,
PURA VIDA Rick
scottss
Remember that home depot is just selling the blades they aren't making them and they are not there own brand. You can find them at woodwoking stores and hardware stores even on the web. If you have a problem with them you can take it back.:cool:
Anonymous
Something that happens on all saws when ripping long stock is the board will twist as it gets near the end. If you are useing an outfeed stand try adjusting it and make sure it is not causing the twist. As the board extends over the end of the table the more weight hanging off the end and more difficult to keep flat on the table. Like wise you blade should not extend more than 3/16" to 1/4" above the top of the board. You can also try ripping 1/2 way and then flip the board and finish the cut. I use this system a lot as as it keep the weight on my end and give me more control.
Good luck
Joe Mohnike
Ed in Tampa
ricknwood wroteI'm an Academy instructor and am asked this question often.The other owners have offered you some good advise but I might add a few. First, make sure you are using a 3/32" blade. The difference between a 1/8" blade and a 3/32" blade is exceptionally important for us Shopsmith owners as our headstock motor at 1 1/8 hp is much smaller that say a unisaw at 3 hp. Engineers say that the difference the smaller kerf makes will make the motor seem as if it has 1/3 more hp. That's significant! Second, make sure you have a 20 amp circuit as suggested and if you are pulling through an extension cord, make sure it is a large gauge. Also use the shortest cord possible. Your 20 amp circuit should be designated for shopsmith only. Do not have your over head lights or garage door opener on the same circuit as your machine will shut down as you over load it. Third, use Top -Cote made by Bostik. This can be sprayed on each side of your blade while the machine is running. This cuts down the friction. Forth, make sure your table is not raked into or away from the blade. This information is covered in the Help Kit. And forth, after you have found that your table is aliened correctly, make sure your fence is parrell to your miter track on the table top. Fifth, if your blade gets gumed up, use Simply Green as recomended to clean the pitch. And last but not least, COME TO A TRAVELING ACADEMY!!!!!!!!! You can find our schedule online under education. Hope this helps you. Happy Trails Fellow Woodworker,
PURA VIDA Rick
Rick
What blade do you recommend? I thought with the thinner blades you had problems with blade bending and twist. I know SS make a thin kerf blade but I thought the saleing point on the 1 1/4 bore was the more support to prevent blade flex which I would think a thin kerf blade would neutralize.
Ed
marinegunny
harvey101871 wroteI bought my Shopsmith just last February]
Saw blade that came with your Shopsmith..clean it, sharpen it and go for the wood. Something about a SAW BLADE. I too have a saw blade that needs to be replaced. My saw blade came with my Shopsmith Mark V in 1975. YES in 1975 I brought the Shopsmith. Today I order my first saw blade. I have used this saw blade for over 30 years, that is wright over 30 years. I can not say anything bad about the Shopsmith saw blades. Keep the Shopsmith clean and in good working order and you will never have a problem. John
dusty
I just had problems that may be similar to yours and that were eventually cured by getting a sharp saw blade.
But before I would suggest the same, I would recommend that if you haven't done so recently that you do a complete alignment of your Shopsmith, paying particular attention to those alignments involving the Main Table, Rip Fence and Mitre Gauge.
I would then clean all your blades.
Now check for cutting quality and ease. If your blades are clean and the table is aligned and it still doesn't cut - buy a new blade.
Yes, good primary power is important (critical) but are you not using the same power that has previously worked fine?
Now a question for Rick:
Shopsmith offers 1/8" blades in their catalog; in fact, the only thin kerf (3/32") blades they offer are carbide tipped. Is it the thin kerf or the carbide tip that makes the thin kerf better?
htz308
All good advice, but it doesn't matter if you have a $100 saw blade and your table and fence are perfectly aligned if the edge of the lumber you are cutting isn't jointed perfectly straight and true. If there's any curve to it, it's going to curve along the fence and bind against the blade. And construction grade lumber never has a straight edge.
dusty
This post is so profound.
We (at least I) so often overlook the obvious. It was stated in the very beginning of this thread that the TS was being used primarily to cut construction grade lumber.
I immediately related this basic problem (saw bogging down) to my most recent experiences which have been associated with a shop (and its primary user) that has sat idle for months on end. Not necessarily a valid comparison.
Yes, we must all be aware that if we put that saw blade in a bind (no matter what the cause) the blade is going to perform abnormally and "unsafely" I might add. This is particularly true of table saws that are not driven by high horsepower motors.
___________________
Making Sawdust Safely
twig/al
Just a quick way to check for the problem. Cut a small piece of plywood that has a straight edge. If it cuts the plywood fine, it is the lumber. If not, it's probally the blade or binding. But you should be able to tell by looking at the cut edge. Just a thought
twig/al
Try cutting a piece of plywood that has a straight edge. If it cuts clean, it is the lumber. If it still doesn't cut correctly, look at the cut edge and you should be able to tell if it is binding or a dull blade. Just an idea from a ol' country boy,, lol...
