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The Ultimate Sawsmith Radial Arm Saw Thread

DLB

delong94 wrote Anyone have a extra 5/8 inch left hand spindle nut and washer for the SawSmith? Mine did not have any with it. It is Part numbers 503306 and 504553 according to the parts list.

Just a thought. If it happens to match Craftsman there are some on ebay. Craftsman appears to be 5/8-12 LH, and I believe it is Acme thread. (Craftsman had many models, YMMV. But I've read a few things that lead me to think this might be standard.) If it does not match Craftsman you might try to determine if there is a more common brand it does match that might at least be easier to find.

- David

delong94

DLB wrote
delong94 wrote Anyone have a extra 5/8 inch left hand spindle nut and washer for the SawSmith? Mine did not have any with it. It is Part numbers 503306 and 504553 according to the parts list.
Just a thought. If it happens to match Craftsman there are some on ebay. Craftsman appears to be 5/8-12 LH, and I believe it is Acme thread. (Craftsman had many models, YMMV. But I've read a few things that lead me to think this might be standard.) If it does not match Craftsman you might try to determine if there is a more common brand it does match that might at least be easier to find.

- David

I did order a 5/8 Craftsman yesterday... We'll see if that works. I probably need to get a new blade as well. Thank you.

DLB

delong94 wrote I did order a 5/8 Craftsman yesterday... We'll see if that works. I probably need to get a new blade as well. Thank you.

My Craftsman has a cheap Talesaw blade in it, probably contributing to why I never use it. Be sure to note blade comments made earlier in this thread by BuckeyeDennis:

BuckeyeDennis wrote However, you don’t want to use just any blade on a RAS. Using the wrong blade is a major reason that they developed a reputation for being unreasonably dangerous. A typical tablesaw blade has an aggressive positive tooth hook, which on a RAS can contribute to the blade “climbing” the workpiece and running out toward the operator. (This problem is excarbated by poor structural rigidity on some saws — I’m not sure how the Sawsmith compares on that front.) Chop-saw blades typically don’t have enough hook, and perform very poorly for ripping on a RAS.

On the DeWalt radial arm saw forum, the top-rated RAS blade is the Forrest Woodworker I TCG (Mr. Sawdust) blade. This universal blade gives excellent results on every cut you can do on a RAS. You can order directly from Forrest, but they have new sales personnel who will probably try to sell you their standard Woodworker I ATB blade instead. It’s easier to order from Slivers Mill.

https://www.sliversmill.com/category_1_Woodworker_I.html

The next-best, and considerably less expensive, blade is the the Freud LU83R, available from Amazon.

Conventional wisdom says that RAS blades should have a negative hook angle. But testing done in cooperation with Forrest determined that a small positive hook is ideal.

Based on how poorly mine works, I think this is great advice.

- David

delong94

DLB wrote
delong94 wrote I did order a 5/8 Craftsman yesterday... We'll see if that works. I probably need to get a new blade as well. Thank you.
My Craftsman has a cheap Talesaw blade in it, probably contributing to why I never use it. Be sure to note blade comments made earlier in this thread by BuckeyeDennis:

BuckeyeDennis wrote However, you don’t want to use just any blade on a RAS. Using the wrong blade is a major reason that they developed a reputation for being unreasonably dangerous. A typical tablesaw blade has an aggressive positive tooth hook, which on a RAS can contribute to the blade “climbing” the workpiece and running out toward the operator. (This problem is excarbated by poor structural rigidity on some saws — I’m not sure how the Sawsmith compares on that front.) Chop-saw blades typically don’t have enough hook, and perform very poorly for ripping on a RAS.

On the DeWalt radial arm saw forum, the top-rated RAS blade is the Forrest Woodworker I TCG (Mr. Sawdust) blade. This universal blade gives excellent results on every cut you can do on a RAS. You can order directly from Forrest, but they have new sales personnel who will probably try to sell you their standard Woodworker I ATB blade instead. It’s easier to order from Slivers Mill.

https://www.sliversmill.com/category_1_Woodworker_I.html

The next-best, and considerably less expensive, blade is the the Freud LU83R, available from Amazon.

Conventional wisdom says that RAS blades should have a negative hook angle. But testing done in cooperation with Forrest determined that a small positive hook is ideal.
Based on how poorly mine works, I think this is great advice.

- David

Thanks. I do have one of the original general purpose blades with it, but it needed a good cleaning. I did not do any cuts with it yet. I am in the process of breaking down the stand and repainting it. Slow process for me because of other competing things. Life happens. Lol.

chapmanruss

Earlier when you asked about the LH Nut you also asked about the washer P/N 504553. It is still available from Shopsmith under that part number. Apparently two of them are still used on the Idler Drum of the Belt Sander. It is a thick 5/8" ID and 1-1/2" OD flat washer. Is this washer to be placed next to a saw blade mounted directly on the spindle? If so machined washers like the ones found on the 5/8" Arbor P/N 505506 could be used to go next to a saw blade mounted directly on the spindle. In one of heathicus' earlier posts on this thread he shows a picture of the RH and LH nuts along with two machined washers. That's what makes me curious about the use of the washer P/N 504553. If that is its use than the machined washer may be a better one to use.

delong94

chapmanruss wrote Earlier when you asked about the LH Nut you also asked about the washer P/N 504553. It is still available from Shopsmith under that part number. Apparently two of them are still used on the Idler Drum of the Belt Sander. It is a thick 5/8" ID and 1-1/2" OD flat washer. Is this washer to be placed next to a saw blade mounted directly on the spindle? If so machined washers like the ones found on the 5/8" Arbor P/N 505506 could be used to go next to a saw blade mounted directly on the spindle. In one of heathicus' earlier posts on this thread he shows a picture of the RH and LH nuts along with two machined washers. That's what makes me curious about the use of the washer P/N 504553. If that is its use than the machined washer may be a better one to use.

Thanks. The P/N for the recessed washer is 501451 and is no longer available. Those are the ones in the photo with the RH and LH nuts. I also found that the RH nut is available too... It is P/N 503305. The washer P/N 504553 goes next to them in the parts diagram. That Heathicus posted in the first part of this thread.

delong94

Received the craftsman recessed washers today. Does anyone know the correct thread size for the spindle?

delong94

heathicus wrote Each end of the motor spindle is threaded. (I haven't checked the thread size.) The spindle is 5/8" diameter, and has the tapered flat just like the Shopsmith spindle. It's just threaded in addition. I think the earlier model had a non-threaded spindle just like the Shopsmith. Even threaded, it is still a nice tight fit with the attachments I have put on it with absolutely not slop at all.

The left spindle has left handed threads. The right spindle has normal right handed threads. A typical saw blade with a 5/8" bore can be mounted directly on the spindle with the addition of washers and a nut that threads directly on the spindle. The two nuts are clearly labeled for left and right. This allows mounting of the saw blade on either spindle. The blade guard can also be mounted on either side and there's a rubber boot that can slip over the unused spindle to keep it from grabbing anything.

An arbor allows use of Shopsmith blades with a 1.25" bore.

The 1.25" arbor attaches to the spindle using a set screw on the tapered flat as is typical on the Shopsmith. Each side is labeled with an arrow and how it should be mounted on the spindle.

Shopsmith attachments that mount to the spindle can be mounted on the Sawsmith. Such as the sanding disk, dado/shaper arbor, Jacob's chuck, etc.

Does anyone know what size the spindle and thread are? Thanks.

gavinthegregarious

delong94 wrote
heathicus wrote
Does anyone know what size the spindle and thread are? Thanks.

Did you ever get an answer on this. The threads are 5/8-11 UNC but normal 5/8-11 attachments are not fitting. I think the threads on the arbor are extra long/tall which is preventing the normal 5/8-11 nuts and attachments from fitting. I'm not sure though. I really want to get a sanding disc on there.

CORRECTION: the arbor is 5/8" but the threads are ACME. Still trying to find the threading size but ACME nuts are still available. This might solve this issue for all Saw Smith owners once and for all.

Danriffle

gavinthegregarious wrote
delong94 wrote
heathicus wrote
Does anyone know what size the spindle and thread are? Thanks.
Did you ever get an answer on this. The threads are 5/8-11 UNC but normal 5/8-11 attachments are not fitting. I think the threads on the arbor are extra long/tall which is preventing the normal 5/8-11 nuts and attachments from fitting. I'm not sure though. I really want to get a sanding disc on there.

No reason that you can't mount a standard SS sanding disc to either arbor.

delong94

Was able to locate a set of arbor bolts for the saw. Fellow shop smith and saw smith owners are the best!

gavinthegregarious wrote
delong94 wrote
heathicus wrote
Does anyone know what size the spindle and thread are? Thanks.
Did you ever get an answer on this. The threads are 5/8-11 UNC but normal 5/8-11 attachments are not fitting. I think the threads on the arbor are extra long/tall which is preventing the normal 5/8-11 nuts and attachments from fitting. I'm not sure though. I really want to get a sanding disc on there.

Thanks for the reply. I have not checked the thread in a while. I did find out that they are 5/8-11... I tried to use a dewalt LH thread nut, but it only goes on half way. I think you are correct in that the arbor threads are extra tall... Need to find an exact replacement. You should be able to mount a regular sanding disk on the sawsmith arbor. it will lock with the locking screw onto the flat part of the arbor.

JPG

Thread interference can take place three ways. Pitch deviation is not relevant to this discussion.

The two that are involve the screw clearance between the male and female parts. Both involve the thread 'peak' mating with the mating thread 'valley'. A high peak or a shallow valley creates the interference.

A possible solution requires re threading the parts(a tap or a die). Rust can build up in the valleys so rethreading with a tap MAY 'fix' it. Rust may cause the peak profile to become 'fat' and cause interference so rethreading with a die MAY 'fix' that.

In this case however the SS shaft threads MAY be fatter than typical since it is also an arbor shaft and needs to maintain that 5/8: od. That would require a 'special' threaded nut that has deeper valleys and possibly shorter peaks(like an acme thread peak).

mlwass

The motor on my 1963 Yuba Saw Smith just burned out and I am not going to spend the $350 to get new windings. I doubt that I can get a replacement motor to fit. If anyone knows a good solution to the motor, please send a reply.

So this is saw is either FOR SALE, or if this website returns a number of requests for parts, I will SELL PARTS for the rest of you to carry on. This machine made almost all the wood furniture In our homes for two generations. It is in good shape with all the parts, lots of blades, some new, good Jacobs chuck, etc.

I am in Dallas Texas. Please contact me by reply if you want to purchase the whole thing or parts. The coil wire in the arm is in good shape, original wood table is in fine shape, as we always kept a 1/4 inch plywood cover nailed on top to do work.

mlwass

delong94

JPG wrote Thread interference can take place three ways. Pitch deviation is not relevant to this discussion.

The two that are involve the screw clearance between the male and female parts. Both involve the thread 'peak' mating with the mating thread 'valley'. A high peak or a shallow valley creates the interference.

A possible solution requires re threading the parts(a tap or a die). Rust can build up in the valleys so rethreading with a tap MAY 'fix' it. Rust may cause the peak profile to become 'fat' and cause interference so rethreading with a die MAY 'fix' that.

In this case however the SS shaft threads MAY be fatter than typical since it is also an arbor shaft and needs to maintain that 5/8: od. That would require a 'special' threaded nut that has deeper valleys and possibly shorter peaks(like an acme thread peak).

Was able to locate a set of arbor bolts for the saw. Fellow shop smith and saw smith owners are the best!

edma194

I'm hoping to get a look at a Yuba Sawsmith RAS just a few miles away. Seller is asking $250, I'm hoping to pay less, but it's advertised with this statement:

"Yuba Saw Smith Radial Arm Saw. Condition is "New". This is a collectors saw or a work horse. This is a barn find. The saw has never been used. Comes with original tag to mail back into Yuba"

eBay ad here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/313573602090?ul_noapp=true

Any opinions on what this is worth if it's actually in 'new' condition?

JPG

For starters it ain't in "new" condition. It is a restore project. Maybe not used, but not stored well either.

I would not pay more than $150 for it and I would like to have one.

edma194

I made an offer of $150, mainly just to send him a message telling him I wanted to see it. I am skeptical about the condition. My wife looked on Facebook and saw them advertised for prices from under $100 to over $1000. I need to see it and give it a chance to tell me about it's condition.

delong94

edma194 wrote I made an offer of $150, mainly just to send him a message telling him I wanted to see it. I am skeptical about the condition. My wife looked on Facebook and saw them advertised for prices from under $100 to over $1000. I need to see it and give it a chance to tell me about it's condition.

In March, I got my saw for $75 and it was not working. It needed a new capacitor and did not have the 5/8 inch arbor nuts on it. The arbor spindle is 5/8 inch like the shopsmith and the normal arbor takes blades that have a 1.25 inch hole. I would read the area in this thread about selecting blades for this saw too. Also check to see if the switch keys are there. There is a lock on top of the saw. Hope this helps. I am still working on mine, but the motor fired up with a new capacitor and lubrication to the sheeve (like a shopsmith).

edma194

delong94 wrote

In March, I got my saw for $75 and it was not working. It needed a new capacitor and did not have the 5/8 inch arbor nuts on it. The arbor spindle is 5/8 inch like the shopsmith and the normal arbor takes blades that have a 1.25 inch hole. I would read the area in this thread about selecting blades for this saw too. Also check to see if the switch keys are there. There is a lock on top of the saw. Hope this helps. I am still working on mine, but the motor fired up with a new capacitor and lubrication to the sheeve (like a shopsmith).

Thanks for the advice. I should be able to see this machine soon. The condition is critical, if it's missing important parts or the motor isn't working I see significant cost to make this usable. Since I wouldn't use a RAS that often I don't know if it would be worth it. I'm not sure if my offer was accepted just so he could tell me where he lives, apparently ebay has a rule against sharing addresses and phone numbers without an accepted offer. If he wants more for it then I'll probably have to pass based on JPG's suggestion that it's only worth $150. I'll take a look at it and get the low down.

edma194

This machine is mine now. The story is that it was never used and the indications are pretty good that is correct. No cuts in the table, no sawdust anywhere. Mild corrosion on the cabinet and post. Plenty of grease on where it mounts to the post. The motor turned right on and the speed control works. The keys were in the lock. Everything else seems functional, has the original blade mounted on the left. Does not have the right side arbor nut but does have the rubber cap. Finding a nut for the right side doesn't seem like it will be a problem. The tabletop needs replacing, probably use some MDF I already have for that. Have to do some other things over the weekend but will take some pictures before long to post.

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