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Craigslist find = New project 10ER

joebob80

Thanks Russ! I typically speed through my projects, but with a 1 year old it's difficult to find time to work on anything. I use the photos to catalog the parts to make sure I don't end up with extra things at the end and it's nice to finally share them. I usually don't post my photos, but hopefully these will help out the next guy, so you don't have to answer so many questions =).

It's good to hear the drum sander is compatible because I really didn't think to check and assumed it was going to fit =).

joebob80

More progress photos -

joebob80

Question 6: I'm concerned with the wear on the speed changer pulley shaft and thinking I may need to find a replacement. I put it against a flat edge and it looks like there is two low spots from the center pulley near the ends.

Q 6-1: Is this typical?

Q 6-2: Can and should I try to send this out?

Q 6-3: Should I start looking on Ebay for a replacement?

JPG

Hope not too late! :eek:

joebob80

I will make sure I don't lose it. I couldn't even get it out to clean it =).

rpd

re the speed changer shaft, it is quite worn, someone in it's past did not believe in lubrication. :eek:

However, I would not give up on it just yet. The two outer sheaves are fixed and the center sheave should only slide back and forth, not be spinning on the shaft. I would try cleaning and polishing the shaft (and lubricating), and then see how it works.

Mine had some corrosion, I polished it using the lathe function. :)

https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?p=232776#p232776

joebob80

Thanks Ron! I will try that and see how it works.

joebob80

Update -

Got the motor rewired and put back together, but not getting any power - doubled checked my work and found the on/off switch is bad (no continuity between one of the path).

The switch is rated 12AMP-125V.

Question 7: is this the correct rating for my motor?

BuckeyeDennis

The amperage rating is OK, but it doesn't tell the whole story. You need a motor-rated switch, designed to withstand the high startup inrush current and inductive load of an induction motor. Specifically, you need switch that's rated for at least 3/4 hp. They're not hard to find -- most any good hardware store should have them.

joebob80

Thanks for the quick reply!

I'm assuming these would work? parts SW-01 and SW-02 @ http://www.mkctools.com/10erparts.htm

Is there any benefit in using the 20AMP switch over the 16AMP? May be longer life?

JPG

joebob80 wroteThanks for the quick reply!

I'm assuming these would work? parts SW-01 and SW-02 @ http://www.mkctools.com/10erparts.htm

Is there any benefit in using the 20AMP switch over the 16AMP? May be longer life?

The 16A is adequate, but yes the 20A will likely last longer. Either one will likely out live thee! ;)

joebob80

lol, thanks JPG. I will go with the 20amp and save the next guy some fun troubleshooting the motor. =)

joebob80

Progress photos - had time over the weekend to start assembling some of the cleaned and waxed parts.

Couple of the parts still has heavy grease buildup on the top surface. MORE CLEANING AND WAXING = :mad:

Still need to remove the stain on the base plate that's currently soaking in penetrating oil

Motor still need to be cleaned and waxed

Ordering new belts, on/off switch, caster springs, and missing shaper clamp

Still need to clean all the accessories

JPG

Looking GOOD!!!!

rpd

Ohhh, :cool:

Looking very good.

The washers between the speed changer and the head stock would be to support the speed changer and help prevent it from breaking, They are weak where the bolt hole is, and without the washers contact the headstock at the sides first, and tightening the nut can cause them to fracture,

See this one that I bought broken and repaired.

https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/maintenance-and-repair-f10/10er-speed-changer-repair-t19855.html

joebob80

Thanks JPG!

Thanks Ron, that's good information to know. I read your post before, but didn't see how it broke in the OP.

I will get a thicker washer to make sure it fills the gap.

JPG

I know i am repeating what has already been said, but it IS that important! TOO tight against the headstock is thy enemy!

joebob80

Quick belt size check.

Assuming I have all the correct pulleys and a 3/4hp motor, are these the sizes I need:

Speed changer - 4L220 and 4L250

Jointer - 4L320

Old belts.

rpd

Looks like the right sizes, I have read good things about the cogged style of belts from people whose experience I trust. When I get new belts that will be the style I go for.

https://sites.google.com/site/hogwinslowwoodworking/?fbclid=IwAR2OQOYxKWgi3jUCL45_syMbiYnq4Eh_lZRKiOm1srtWgsnNOxPG34rG3OY

http://www.mkctools.com/10erparts.htm

BuckeyeDennis

Those would be the correct modern belt sizes, according to 10 ER guru Skip Campbell, for a 1/2 hp motor.

What I’m confused about is why Skip specifically called out belt sizes for a 1/2 hp motor. As I understand it, the distance from the mounting feet to the shaft centerline should be the same for any Frame 56 motor. Not to mention shaft diameter, mounting-hole pattern, etc. In other words, all Frame 56 motors should be mechanically interchangeable in all critical mounting dimensions. This does exclude body length and diameter, which are not, strictly speaking, mounting dimensions (although they could affect clearances to the bench boards, etc.).

Perhaps the 3/4 hp motors available at the time were not Frame 56? :confused:

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