Schedule a Meeting · Talk to a real woodworker: +1 937-890-5197 · 8:00AM – 4:30PM ET

New owner, want to restore

JPG

Unless the set screw is 'out' do not try the wedge approach to remove. The shaft flat is tapered like the quill shaft.

ghouliegirl

So, I've used penetrating oil and evaporust and I cannot get these dang things to budge. I've tried gently hammering it (just enough to get it to vibrate) and nothing.

Could you explain this wedge method more clearly? I don't quite get it and I don't know what else to do.

ghouliegirl

Maybe I'm missing something?

The set screws are out. Is there something else that I need to do, or should they just come off? AUGH.

JPG

ghouliegirl wroteSo, I've used penetrating oil and evaporust and I cannot get these dang things to budge. I've tried gently hammering it (just enough to get it to vibrate) and nothing.

Could you explain this wedge method more clearly? I don't quite get it and I don't know what else to do.

PLEASE DO NOT!!! The wedges press against the perforated sheet metal(vent plate) and will likely destroy it and you will still be left with the stubborn hub(s).

OK with the set screw(s) out apply penetrating fluid into the set screw holes and let them soak.

After they are so prepared, apply torque to get them to free themselves from the shaft. Anything that will apply great torque without damaging either the hub or the shaft should do it. Channellocks come to mind. Also vice grip if necessary. Last resort a big pipe wrench!!! Alternating direction may help.

Realize the hubs are replacable, the shafts not as easily($) so.

edma194

At some point I would take vice grip pliers and grip the hub with pliers in-line with the shaft, then try to wiggle the hub up and down and then left and right, very slightly to get it moving.

Have you tried filling the setscrew hole with penetrating oil? Does it seem to soak into the joint? It can take some time. To get a table trunnion off recently I had to soak it for over a week. After that I could only wiggle it out a millimeter at a time over a couple of days until it finally came off.

As JPG mentioned, the hubs don't cost much. I'd consider cutting them apart before I'd do anything that would damage anything else.

benmcn

It might help if you could take the headstock off and flip it end for end with quill facing the direction that the hubs are now. This would allow you to lift the machine into the drill press position, except now the SPT hubs would located such that you could use the table to hold a pan or other container full of evaporust. Move the table up until the hubs are submerged in the evaporust and allow them to soak for a day or so. Additionally you could soak the Hubs in penetrating oil

Depending on the hub type (some of mine are open on both sides) you might be able to use a bearing puller.

edma194

benmcn wroteIt might help if you could take the headstock off and flip it end for end with quill facing the direction that the hubs are now. This would allow you to lift the machine into the drill press position, except now the SPT hubs would located such that you could use the table to hold a pan or other container full of evaporust. Move the table up until the hubs are submerged in the evaporust and allow them to soak for a day or so. Additional you could soak the Hubs in penetrating oil

Depending on the hub type (some of mine are open on both sides) you might be able to use a bearing puller.

This is a great idea.

Removing and reinstalling a headstock is usually a two person job. I've done it myself before, but I was a lot younger and my body didn't need so much restoration work.

Before trying to put it back on make sure the wedge locks are lined up so the way tubes will pass through.

benmcn

I really like the technique that Doug Reid demonstrates for taking off the headstock. You can see it here:

ShoptimusPrime

I was thinking of using wood wedges on the top hub and using a socket on the bottom if a bearing puller isn't available. A bearing puller would be better for both. What about using compressed air to force the penetrating oil around the shafts? I'll take a look at the video.

JPG

Doug's last name is Reid.

benmcn

Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I fixed it

benmcn

:eek:

edma194

benmcn wroteThanks for bring that to my attention. I fixed it

You must have been thinking about that guy named Shop. His last name is Smith ;)

chapmanruss

Most of this has been said before but use penetrating oil allowing it to soak in several days if needed. The upper hub on the Drive Sleeve could be removed with a bearing puller but the lower one on the Idler shaft cannot. Caution will be needed for any method used to remove it. Keep in mind the metal closest to it is the vent plate and has no strength to pry against. Also pulling hard on the hub to remove it is pulling the idler assembly against it's mounting and could cause breakage. It may take a while to get it to come loose. Try putting the sanding disk on the quill spindle for a grip to hold the drive shaft for trying to rotate the hubs to get them free. Again some type of pliers to grip them for turning on the shafts. The hubs are cheaper than replacing other parts if damaged. If it comes down to cutting off the hub on the idler shaft use caution so as not to cut into the idler shaft itself. This would be my last resort for removing it.

everettdavis

Lots of ideas presented here.

Here’s one method that may just be your final one.

You can get the setscrews out correct?

Manually rotate the drive hubs until the hole is at 12:00

Mix up a teaspoon of automatic transmission fluid and a teaspoon of Acetone in a glass bottle with a glass eye dropper (Acetone will dissolve plastics)

Acetone changes the viscosity allowing it to flow in more readily. It then evaporates leaving the ATF to attack the rust.

Shake it up to mix it well then take the eye dropper and fill set screw hole to the brim. Observe it to see if it’s going in.

Once you cannot get anymore to flow in, refill the hole and insert the set screw to hydraulically force it in. Make sure screw bottoms out.

Now turn on the machine and let it run if possible. This alone will heat the machine up and warm the shafts. The natural vibration will help distribute the ATF in the Hub.

Repeat this a few times.

Additionally you can wipe the exterior of the hubs, install a coupler, and drive a SPT (with the speed set appropriately for the tool selection)

That will add additional vibration to the hub as it drives the SPT.

You don’t have use the SPT, just let it run.

I have had a good bit of success doing this.

Obviously you can use the SPT to perform work, and in time you will find the hubs will come off if you’re patient.

Everett

ShoptimusPrime

I like the suggestion of using the set screw to force the oil into the coupling.

I just had a similar issue with a frozen leveling screw on a goldie I'm restoring. Been using pb blaster and sewing machine oil on it for the last few days and it wouldn't budge. I tried an old trick using a can of compressed air for cleaning key boards. Turned it upside down and used the liquid gas to freeze the iron bolt a little. Short burst, wait a few seconds then repeated once more. Worked like a charm.

BuckeyeDennis

ShoptimusPrime wrote
I like the suggestion of using the set screw to force the oil into the coupling.

I just had a similar issue with a frozen leveling screw on a goldie I'm restoring. Been using pb blaster and sewing machine oil on it for the last few days and it wouldn't budge. I tried an old trick using a can of compressed air for cleaning key boards. Turned it upside down and used the liquid gas to freeze the iron bolt a little. Short burst, wait a few seconds then repeated once more. Worked like a charm.

I think you’ve just added a new tool to our arsenal!

I’ve occasionally used freeze spray to diagnose intermittent electronic components, but it never occurred to me to try it on balky fasteners. But it makes stuff real cold, real fast, and is very localized when you plug the little straw into the nozzle. So I’m thinking it would outperform even a torch for creating differential material expansion. Perfect for shrinking a screw, and not whatever it’s stuck in.

The stuff we used at work looked something like the product below.

For a double thermal whammy, I suppose that you could heat the entire assembly, and then hit the screw with freeze spray.

ShoptimusPrime

It's been close to 100 where I am and this did the trick for me. Thought about using a hair dryer instead of the heat gun, but the ambient temperature seemed to enough.

ghouliegirl

Its been a little while since I checked in here, but I'm glad I did.

Still can't get the dang things off, so I plan on setting the thing up for use and working on the accessory pieces in the meantime. I'll post as I get to it.

Thanks, everyone!

ghouliegirl

Good news is that I stuck the bandsaw on and hooked it up. Everything works great! I've got new blades ordered from Shopsmith.

The tires are still pretty supple - not hard or cracking, but they are dirty. What is the best way to clean them up? Do they need to be lubricated or something?

BTW, the user manual says to use other brands of blades is dangerous. Is that true, or can I buy regular blades from the big box stores?

« Previous Page Next Page »