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Which tool do you USE the most

edflorence

The recent thread on scary tools plus the ongoing discussions about just how good is the Shopsmith in Table Saw mode got me to wondering which Shopsmith setups people use most frequently. When I asked myself this question, the answer was easy - I use the table saw set-up more than any other, and, I am pretty happy with the SS as a tablesaw, although I admit the 500 fence can be a bit finicky. Then, in order of how often they get used, I would say: jointer, drill press or bandsaw (its a tie), sander, lathe, horizontal drill mode and then router. Just wondering if this is typical of other users.

bainin

1. TableSaw

2. Bandsaw

3. DrillPress/Jointer (project dependent)

4. Horizontal boring

5. Seldom router/shaper (have a separate setup for this)

6. Hardly ever sanding disks

7. Never Lathe

b

edma194

It has to be the drill press based on number of holes drilled. But most holes don't take long to drill, and a lot of the time I'll be drilling numerous holes in one session using the same bit, so the average time per hole is fairly small.

Based on overall time in use I'm sure it's the bandsaw. It can take a while to shape a piece on the bandsaw, cutting out a bandsaw box has to be done slowly and carefully as does cutting any intricate shape. I frequently rough cut initially and close in on a final cut, and many tight convex shapes require using multiple cuts to remove enough material to turn the needed radius. I'll use the bandsaw any time it's practical to cut with it, and I also use it for plastic and metal. So the bandsaw is the winner on time spent in use.

Table saw must be third unless I combine all the sanding functions. They'd probably win in terms of combined time. Horizontal boring gets done a lot, but before I had a dedicated drill press it was easier not to raise the head into drill press mode and I'd do anything horizontally if possible.

I have rarely used the joiner or lathe compared to the other tools but I intend to start using the lathe a lot more now.

DLB

In addition to the kind of woodworking we do, this one depends quite a bit on what other equipment is in out shop.

1) Table saw for sure. I went from Greenie to 520 in one step, which resolved my reservations on the SS as a table saw. There are pros and cons comparing it to any portable, but overall I prefer the SS.

2) Jointer - Before learning on u-tube that a Jointer is unnecessary I became quite dependent on it.

3) Horizontal Drill Press - I'm retraining myself to think horizontal first to save setup time. I find that most of my vertical drill press 'needs' can be done just as well, sometimes better, with the horizontal setup.

4) Belt Sander

5) Bandsaw

I do a lot of routing and shaping, would probably be #2 or 3 on my list except I do little of it on the Mark. But I do have a SS Overarm stand-alone (also does under-table) that I really like. And I have a PowerPro now so I'm going to give the Mark another chance as a shaper. I did not like the Greenie for shaping and bought a stand-alone.

- David

garys

My use depends somewhat on the projects I'm doing, but usually, I'd say"

1. Table Saw

2. Belt Sander

3. Jointer

4. Planer

5. Bandsaw

6. Lathe

7. Drill press

RFGuy

Which tool do you USE the most?

brain ;)
hands
ruler
pencil
square
tablesaw
jointer
planer
lathe
bandsaw
drill press
horizontal boring

Order of list changes depending on project, but this is kind of the average. Also, just listing Shopsmith functions here. I rarely sand with my Mark V and use a dedicated router table.

jsburger

DLB wrote In addition to the kind of woodworking we do, this one depends quite a bit on what other equipment is in out shop.

1) Table saw for sure. I went from Greenie to 520 in one step, which resolved my reservations on the SS as a table saw. There are pros and cons comparing it to any portable, but overall I prefer the SS.

2) Jointer - Before learning on u-tube that a Jointer is unnecessary I became quite dependent on it.

3) Horizontal Drill Press - I'm retraining myself to think horizontal first to save setup time. I find that most of my vertical drill press 'needs' can be done just as well, sometimes better, with the horizontal setup.

4) Belt Sander

5) Bandsaw

I do a lot of routing and shaping, would probably be #2 or 3 on my list except I do little of it on the Mark. But I do have a SS Overarm stand-alone (also does under-table) that I really like. And I have a PowerPro now so I'm going to give the Mark another chance as a shaper. I did not like the Greenie for shaping and bought a stand-alone.

- David

Why is that? I use mostly rough stock. I don't hand plane so the jointer is indispensable. I use it as much as the table saw. Rough stock prep involves the table saw, the jointer and then the planer. Those are the most used tools in my shop and are used on almost every project.

sehast

I am with John on this, almost. Rough stock might need the bandsaw first to cut down to acceptable width and the miter saw to cut to rough length before going to the jointer to flatten two sides. Then it might be back to the bandsaw to cut to rough width and thickness before going to the planer for final thickness. If the width is less than 6" then final width can be done on the planer which might require a jig for thinner stock. Greater than 6" final widths can be done of the table saw or a track saw setup. Then back to the miter saw for final length. So my priority is:

1) Bandsaw (Heavy duty 18" or better)

2) Jointer

3) Miter saw

4) Planer

5) Router (handheld, table, Shaper Origin)

5) Track saw

6) Table saw

DLB

jsburger wrote
DLB wrote ... 2) Jointer - Before learning on u-tube that a Jointer is unnecessary I became quite dependent on it. ...

- David
Why is that? I use mostly rough stock. I don't hand plane so the jointer is indispensable. I use it as much as the table saw. Rough stock prep involves the table saw, the jointer and then the planer. Those are the most used tools in my shop and are used on almost every project.

That was meant in jest, I also consider the Jointer indispensable. I had seen a couple of videos recently (Stumpy Numbs and ???) suggesting a Jointer was not a necessity but a Planer was. My experience is the opposite. They indicated that a form of Planer sled could be used so that a thickness Planer would surface plane and then a table saw, with another sled, could be used to cut a straight edge 90 degrees to the planed surface. I don't share that view, I consider a Planer to be optional and completed many projects without one. My two criticisms are that neither actually demonstrated success, meaning a straight flat surface and a straight true edge of glue joint quality, and the methodology was extremely time consuming as the sleds have to be adjusted for every board.

- David

edflorence

RFGuy wrote Which tool do you USE the most?

brain ;)

hands

ruler

pencil

square

Ha! 🤣 Definitely the pre-reqs!

AEA

1. Table Saw

2. Jointer

3. Bandsaw

4. Disk Sander

5. Drill Press

6. Horizontal Boring

7. Panel Clamps (4 way)

8. Scroll Saw

9. Lathe

Used the over head router once. I just

AEA

use a router table for most of my routing needs.

edma194

AEA wrote 7. Panel Clamps (4 way)

Are these the ShopSmith Double Bar Clamps ? Did you make your own bars or use the ones they have?

AEA

I use the ShopSmith double bar clamps 2 foot, and 3 foot. I made some from a kit I bought from somewhere, but the ShopSmith clamps are much easier. These are the original already put together. I have no experience with the new option ShopSmith offers.

edma194

AEA wrote I use the ShopSmith double bar clamps 2 foot, and 3 foot. I made some from a kit I bought from somewhere, but the ShopSmith clamps are much easier. These are the original already put together. I have no experience with the new option ShopSmith offers.

Thanks. I'd like to have some, considering buying Shopsmith parts and making my own bars.

I understand they have a slight radius to the bars so it will tighten down flat, but I'm not sure what they mean when they specify a "3 degree radius cut".

RFGuy

edma194 wrote I understand they have a slight radius to the bars so it will tighten down flat, but I'm not sure what they mean when they specify a "3 degree radius cut".

I haven't done this before in woodworking, but I believe you can use calculators like this one (link below) to compute it (sorry I was too lazy to go dust off the math formulae). If you input 3° and specify the chord length as 3', e.g. a 3 foot long clamp, you get a radius of 57.3' for the arc you'll be creating. Of course, this would be a pain to have to draw in the shop with a 57' long board to draw the circle, so you need another option. Once you have the radius and the length of the clamp you should be able to use the 2nd calculator below to compute the height (sagitta) of the arc. If I did these calculations correctly then for a 3' long clamp with a 3°radius you end up with the curved (arc) part being about a quarter of an inch high. So from the center of the caul to the ends the curve would only rise a quarter inch. This quarter inch would sit on top of the rest of the width of the board used for the clamp. Easiest would be to put 2 nails on each side and use something as a bendable form to draw the arc on the board for cutting. Hope this helps, but would be happy to see if anyone has a better/easier way to do it.

https://www.omnicalculator.com/math/arc-length

https://www.mathopenref.com/sagitta.html

edma194

I think I'll sand a slight curve into the board and leave it at that. Otherwise I might need a 75 foot string to make this arc for a long bar. (probably not use that long of a bar actually)

I may have this wrong, but I think the idea is to keep the center of the bar down flat on the panel while the ends are tightened. Tension and compression is put on the bar from both ends but the brackets are attached very near the ends and there's no downward pressure directly near the center of the bar.

Not sure what to use for the wood, thinking Birch if I can get a good deal on it at the mill.

reible

There are tape measures that allow for pretty large radius arc/circles. This one can do a radius of 118" but practical would be more like perhaps 72" which is still a pretty large circle.