Refurbishing a MkV 510

John4337

Greetings all, thank you for letting me in the group.

I’m taking on a long overdue rehab of my father’s MkV. Sadly he passed in 1993, but I couldn’t let it go, so its been sitting since. Now that I’ve retired and have the time, I’m going to get it running again. The first order of business it to tackle the rust on the various parts, mostly the bench and way tubes and table tubes. Perhaps someone who’s done this will have a suggestion for a good way to go at it. Here’s a photo of the table tubes, which seem to be the worst.

Thanks in advance.

John

JPG

Evaporust. Buy a gallon at Harbor freight. Buying quarts at auto store is too $$$$$.

You might want to explore electrolysis rust removal.

For way tubes there is the pvc pipe/evaporust approach.

P.S. resist the urge to use abrasives except for polishing.

chapmanruss

As JPG suggested Evaporust works very well. I have used it with great success. It can be reused which reduces the cost per use. The PVC pipe he suggests is simply a length slightly longer and is slightly larger inside diameter than a tube you wish to remove rust from. I have an 1-1/2" PVC pipe I use to remove rust from way tubes on restorations of older Shopsmiths. Some like using electrolysis for rust removal. I have not done it myself but have seen others having good results with it. I have used vinegar for rust removal which is less expensive than Evaporust but slower.

As for abrasives, very fine ones can be used for polishing the tubes after the rust is removed depending on the original finish of the tube or part you are working on. Way Tubes are polished metal so they can be polished with very fine abrasives. Bench Tubes have been either painted or chrome. Other tubes vary from polished or chrome. After they have been cleaned up, and polished for bare metal tubes, a good coat of Johnson's original formula paste wax or equivalent will help protect them and provide lubrication for them having parts sliding on them. Example - the Headstock sliding on the way tubes.

John4337

Thanks. I’ll pick some up tomorrow.

db5

None of you want to read this because it goes against almost everything that has been posted. I had blackened tubes on a 510 and used Bartenders Friend to remove it and restore it. You don't need to buy BTF, just get some Oxylic Acid and make your own. It's the same stuff and WAY cheaper. I diluted with olive oil but you can probably use water. Wax on wax off, well rub and rub and rub on then just wipe off. It meets the CFB (cheaper, faster, better) requirement seldom found. I have about three pounds of Oxlyic acid that cost less than a can of BTF. Try it. Mikey likes it.

chapmanruss

db5,

I remember someone (maybe you) talking about using BTF before but I haven't tried it yet so I didn't mention it. I have a pair of Model 10E table posts that have been blackened but not rusted so I may give your suggestion a try. Thanks for the reminder.

John4337

Took my first shot at the table tubes with the Evaporust, not bad. Used a scotch pad, they look a lot better, and importantly feel smooth, the dark areas appear to be stains. I’ll keep at it.

JPG

FWIW you soak stuff in evaporust. When did you use the scorch brite abrasive?

John4337

I soaked some rags on them for a bit, the a soft scotch brite.

edma194

John4337 wrote I soaked some rags on them for a bit, the a soft scotch brite.

Best if you can immerse them, I think a lot more can come off. Maybe use saturated towels and wrap it in plastic. Even in immersed it will probably take an hour or more to get all of that out. Rubbing off any heavy oxide can worsen scratches and pits but the EvapoRust will eventually dissolve all the oxide and you'll know for sure anything left is a stain or something that's not base metal or oxide.

John4337

The evaporust is doing its thing. The staining getting better. While those were soaking, I started on the base parts. The legs were beyond saving, but I scored a set on eBay. The other pieces were corroded, but they cleaned up ok and I hit them with a couple of coats of hammer tone Rustoleum. In a week or so I should have the base back together, then I’ll start on the headstock

jsburger

Looks fantastic! Great job. :D

John4337

jsburger wrote Looks fantastic! Great job. :D

Thanks. These did come out good, especially considering they were in an un air conditioned garage in S. Florida since the 90’s.

John4337

Worked on the table carriage the last couple of days. More progress.

Sorry for the duplicated photo, cant seem to take it out

chapmanruss

All I can say is keep up the good work. Your Shopsmith is coming along nicely.

garys

I have to ask, "Where was that machine stored to get it rusted like that?" I'm running a 1983 MarkV that has been stored in my shop all its life and still has no rust on it. Temperatures in my original shop ranged from 100 degrees in Summer to 0 degrees in Winter and that didn't cause rust.

John4337

It was in an un air conditioned CBS garage/workshop in South Florida. My dad suffered a stroke in 1989, ending his woodworking activity. He passed in 93, so it sat in my shed down there until I retired and moved last year.

garys

Aah Florida. One of the rust buckets of the world with its salt water.

John4337

garys wrote Aah Florida. One of the rust buckets of the world with its salt water.

For sure, salt air and humidity did a number on everything.

John4337

Starting to reassemble the base. First the caster assemblies and the replacement legs I scored on eBay, the old ones were toast