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Refurbishing a MkV 510

larryhrockisland

Thanks Russ, got the pdf and all the pics downloaded and saved to their very own folder. :D

John4337

Well, I’ve been cleaning up the blades I had, the standard SS steel blades look good, the carbide tipped ones have some chipped teeth and are also missing a few teeth. So, what are good sources for saw blades?

chapmanruss

So, what are good sources for saw blades?

With that you can get a lot of answers and opinions. First having both the 1-1/4" arbor and the 5/8" Arbor for your Shopsmith will allow you to choose from many sources. I have used the Shopsmith Blades and am happy with their cuts. I have used other brands which I have been happy with too. The biggest thing is having clean sharp Saw Blades.

chapmanruss

For Larry and any others who are saving the Arbors PDF and pictures for future reference, below is the SawSmith Radial Arm Saw and Table Saw Arbors.

SawSmith Arbors - labeled.jpg

The three hex shaped Arbors are from the Radial Arm Saw with 505512 being after the part number change in 1964 which is around the time the black protective coating was added to Arbors and other parts. The other Arbor is from the Table Saw and looks like 555608 which was originally made for the Table Saw before replacing 555118 prior to the Mark V 520 being introduced.

John4337

Another question, found this blade, not sure what it's for? Google didn't turn up much

8 tooth blade.jpg

rpd

Possibly for cutting Hardie Board, (cement siding)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-HARDIEBlade-12-in-x-8-Tooth-Polycrystalline-Diamond-PCD-Tipped-Fiber-Cement-Circular-Saw-Blade-D1208DH/203162564

John4337

Thanks, Didnt see that one. This blade has to date from the late 80's and there are no labels or markings visible.

JPG

Sheet metal?????

DLB

John4337 wrote Another question, found this blade, not sure what it's for? Google didn't turn up much

I have a similar blade but with 12 teeth. Mine is 10". It was marketed as an inexpensive carbide plywood blade at a time when carbide blades were significantly more expensive than steel. Definitely not five stars. I used it on particle board and similar, basically anything that was particularly hard on a regular blade. Most of the label is unreadable but I can see 'Enduro' or similar and just make out 'ply...' Circa early 80's. Googling Enduro I see a couple of hits for a circular saw version (7 to 7-1/4") with four teeth as a rip/crosscut blade.

- David

John4337

[/quote]I have a similar blade but with 12 teeth. Mine is 10". It was marketed as an inexpensive carbide plywood blade at a time when carbide blades were significantly more expensive than steel. Definitely not five stars. I used it on particle board and similar, basically anything that was particularly hard on a regular blade. Most of the label is unreadable but I can see 'Enduro' or similar and just make out 'ply...' Circa early 80's. Googling Enduro I see a couple of hits for a circular saw version (7 to 7-1/4") with four teeth as a rip/crosscut blade.

- David

[/quote]

Thanks, looks like I'll reserve it for rough cuts.

John4337

Well, I was making a few test cuts when the power switch went bad. A replacement from Shopsmith arrived, but the instructions mention reusing a fiber insulator from the old switch. Sadly, I don't have one. So, is it something that encloses or covers the switch? how critical is it? Something I can fabricate?

Thanks

John

Update - found this that shows the piece

jsburger

I would just wrap some black electrical tape around the body of the switch and the the exposed connectors. It is not critical. Even without it there is nothing metal in the head stock that can touch the contacts when the switch is installed. Notice in the video the newer switch has no insulator.

John4337

jsburger wrote I would just wrap some black electrical tape around the body of the switch and the the exposed connectors. It is not critical. Even without it there is nothing metal in the head stock that can touch the contacts when the switch is installed. Notice in the video the newer switch has no insulator.

I saw that about the new switch, was wondering if it had something to do with the different wiring. I made one out of poster board, came out good, but trying to install it was an epic fail, by the time I got it thru the access hole and in place, it was all crumpled up. I'll tape it.....

John4337

I want to thank everyone for all the help. As I switch to learning how to use this, this thread will likely go dormant. To close it out, I thought I'd post this, I found my father's purchase invoice. Dated March of 1983, for the "show price" of $1214.00.

Thanks again.

John

Invoice 2.jpg

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