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Restoration Progress On My 1955 Greenie

mickyd

Here's before and after photos of the jigsaw that came with the Greenie. Paint scheme remains the same with the Rustoleum Hammered Verde Green and Silver.

There were NO mechanical issues found. I replaced the bearing that was discussed a few posts ago but knowing what I do now, I really didn't need to. The original one had only a very slight feel to it that it was worn / dry but knowing the function now, I wouldn't have replaced it. $25 that could have gone to my ER10 resto project I started last night🙁 . That's story will come later!!!

Notice the color of the paint on the bottom of the worktable below. I didn't paint that yet is matches very close to the Hammered Verde Green.

This completes the entire Greenie restoration project. The only left to do before making sawdust is alignments AND total up the entire bill for this project from initial purchase through the jigsaw bearing. I kept good records in Microsoft Money so it should be as easy as hitting the print button. I think (know) it cost me more that I initially figured (couple hundred $$ in non recurring expenses for tools that I didn't have in my collection). I'll let you know the bottom line $$ with some breakdown of the details.

judaspre1982

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fjimp

Mike you really are given to fine work. Congratulations it looks like new. fjimp

JPG

fjimp wroteMike you really are given to fine work. Congratulations it looks like new. fjimp

NAY! Better!!!!

billmayo

mickyd wroteThe "mystery" bearing jpg is referring to is the one mounted on the jigsaws drive shaft, directly outside the housing, facing the headstock. I had already ordered a replacement bearing prior to questioning what it was there for ($25 with shipping....ouch). I couldn't understand what the bearings function was since for one, it's a slip fit on the drive shaft and two, the outer diameter is just hanging out in space. See photo below.

[ATTACH]4763[/ATTACH]

FYI - This bearing is NOT shown in the jigsaw owner manuals exploded view or parts list. Instead, it shows a stack of 2 washers with a retaining ring (aka snap ring).

I ask Bill Mayo what the bearing was for and he said that it serves as a “thrust bearing”. If a force is applied to the drive shaft toward the jigsaw, the side of the bearing will contact the face of the jigsaw housing and allow the shaft to continue to rotate smoothly. I can see why they changed the design from two washers to a bearing for this reason BUT it would seem that washers may work just as well since with proper positioning of the headstock to jigsaw, the coupler should not cause the shaft to push in toward the housing. Maybe I’m wrong but I’ll find out when I actually use the thing. Washers are a tad cheaper than that bearing also!!!

The coupler is spring loaded on the headstock side and will put pressure on the Jigsaw drive hub trying to force the jiqsaw shaft into the housing. I would believe the washers would wear over time and allow the jigsaw shaft to move inward putting pressure and wear on the plastic like block that converts rotary force into up & down force and possibly cracking/breaking that block. This bearing should be replaced if it feels defective, otherwise it can score the shaft and/or housing and oil seal.

I have available all jigsaw parts, bushings, seals and bearing. I am happy to answer any question anyone has about the jigsaw or Shopsmith equipment.

JPG

billmayo wroteThe coupler is spring loaded on the headstock side and will put pressure on the Jigsaw drive hub trying to force the jiqsaw shaft into the housing. I would believe the washers would wear over time and allow the jigsaw shaft to move inward putting pressure and wear on the plastic like block that converts rotary force into up & down force and possibly cracking/breaking that block. This bearing should be replaced if it feels defective, otherwise it can score the shaft and/or housing and oil seal.

I have available all jigsaw parts, bushings, seals and bearing. I am happy to answer any question anyone has about the jigsaw or Shopsmith equipment.

Would not an actual thrust bearing be more suitable?

heathicus

MickyD, I think we need some pictures of this beauty actually being used now to really complete the process. :)

billmayo

JPG40504 wroteWould not an actual thrust bearing be more suitable?

Yes, however the bearing being used is a bearing used in other Shopsmith equipment and is many times cheaper than a thrust bearing which would require new specifications and ordering&supplier. Just got around to reading your comment.

wa2crk

That is one incredible job!!! Do you ever plan on getting it dirty? How about an uograde to a 520? All I think you would have to do is paint the table carriage green and you will have the only greenie 520.

Great Job

Bill

nelsonlake81

great great work . It looks brand new and to be honest its probably even better

Len

Mike, congratulations!

It is more than a machine, it is a work of art. Makes me proud to be an American and see not only the fine products we once produced, but that some still have that spirit.

Gadz, I leave town for a month or so and you do it ALL, and then some.

Again, congrats are in order!

bshaff

Mike, I see that you have done a beautiful job in restoring your 1955 greenie SS. I have the same type and would like to know what the paint is that you used. I tried to match mine at the paint store but the colors are not the same. Could you list the brand, and mixing codes for the paints on the SS. I need the silver on the headstock and the green on the rest. Can I paint it on with a brush, I don't have a sprayer. Thanks, Barry

jcraigie

bshaff wroteMike, I see that you have done a beautiful job in restoring your 1955 greenie SS. I have the same type and would like to know what the paint is that you used. I tried to match mine at the paint store but the colors are not the same. Could you list the brand, and mixing codes for the paints on the SS. I need the silver on the headstock and the green on the rest. Can I paint it on with a brush, I don't have a sprayer. Thanks, Barry

I believe I used the same paint on mine and it was the rust o leum hammered paints. The green is Verde Green which is sometimes hard to find (hint HomeDepot will let you order it online and deliver it to your house) the silver is just that hammered silver.

Prime vs not prime is another debatable story. I primed mine and I like the way it turned out.

JPG

jcraigie wroteI believe I used the same paint on mine and it was the rust o leum hammered paints. The green is Verde Green which is sometimes hard to find (hint HomeDepot will let you order it online and deliver it to your house) the silver is just that hammered silver.

Prime vs not prime is another debatable story. I primed mine and I like the way it turned out.

That is the paint he used! I believe he primed it also!

Where you at Mike?????? You OK????

jcraigie

JPG40504 wroteThat is the paint he used! I believe he primed it also!

Where you at Mike?????? You OK????

Just don't use the rusty metal primer on the SS, bad juju.

JPG

jcraigie wroteJust don't use the rusty metal primer on the SS, bad juju.

"Self etching" primer on aluminum parts(ok for steel also). I find it at auto parts store. Dries FAST!!!!

ddvann79

The full line of Hammered Rustoleum paints are available at my local WalMart stores in North Texas. You might try there.

Be sure to search the forum for advice on painting with this stuff. There are several good threads on it. Use the keyword "hammered". I just don't have the time right now to find them.

My Goldie has been painted for a couple of months now and after just handling the parts, not even running the machine, the parts that I used self etching primer on before paint are not fairing as well as those that I didn't prime. I'm getting flakes and it chips easily over that primer. But I'm using Hammered Gold and Hammered Copper. There may be a bit of difference in adherence depending upon the tint. The instructions on the can say no primer.

Definitely test it on some cardboard before you start applying to the metal to get a feel for it. It took me four cans of gold and two cans of copper. The greenie has more green than the goldie has gold, proportionately, so it may take you a different ratio. Maybe five green to one silver but if I were you I would get two cans of silver for that headstock.

Good luck and post lots of pictures on your own thread. Here's mine.

billmayo

I have been using self-etching primer on bare aluminum headstocks and parts before using the Hammered paint. I find if I bake the Rusteolum Hammered paints at 200 degrees for about an hour, it helps prevent chipping when assembling the parts. This does not work for other brands of paint. I use a stripped electric stove (no burners, only oven working) on casters for this and for baking various Power Coatings.

JPG

ddvann79 wroteThe full line of Hammered Rustoleum paints are available at my local WalMart stores in North Texas. You might try there.

Be sure to search the forum for advice on painting with this stuff. There are several good threads on it. Use the keyword "hammered". I just don't have the time right now to find them.

My Goldie has been painted for a couple of months now and after just handling the parts, not even running the machine, the parts that I used self etching primer on before paint are not fairing as well as those that I didn't prime. I'm getting flakes and it chips easily over that primer. But I'm using Hammered Gold and Hammered Copper. There may be a bit of difference in adherence depending upon the tint. The instructions on the can say no primer.

Definitely test it on some cardboard before you start applying to the metal to get a feel for it. It took me four cans of gold and two cans of copper. The greenie has more green than the goldie has gold, proportionately, so it may take you a different ratio. Maybe five green to one silver but if I were you I would get two cans of silver for that headstock.

Good luck and post lots of pictures on your own thread. Here's mine.

Interesting! I have tried both ways. I think I prefer the un-stripped, paint over old paint the best(requires less heavy 'finish' coat(s)). Really like primer for internal surfaces!!!!

mickyd

JPG40504 wroteThat is the paint he used! I believe he primed it also!

Where you at Mike?????? You OK????

Been working my wazzoski off!! Praise the Lord for a job, especially a VERY BUSY one!!! Much going on. My stool project (currently only a one-legged stool), is still seasoning out in the shop. :-) Got some time coming up shortly though.

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