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New Shopsmith Owner

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Russ, THANK YOU for that info as now my search is much broader and hopefully more/better options are out there.

Any pointers on what I should be looking for like missing or damaged parts that I could maybe see on Ebay ad pictures? would like to make sure of getting one worth my effort to restore not a POS.

Found this 620 for $60.00, label says 620 not 620C so assume this is the correct one....the price is right, what do you think or should I keep looking for a better one?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256109703871?hash=item3ba153f2bf:g:dBkAAOSwM5hkicUe&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4ETNQyhgva4tylDgP5nCwCKXHpvfrLVh36%2FC9tLywuZIa1nfUdlRIENl6QCb66Sdfs5qImBEZkME2e9di5Hc6VVWl5zmNEBRz6d5fskUuXGMGE6dmhzikfxSLKLigtQRJZdRu0il03DGsByhpjZsy7orpUvx0P8wMplXkAR2wi2Wxolj7r05QTbyHwZ%2BNKSDMu%2B%2Fguu%2FXQWiHQLph6GG0%2BBkIUgzootA%2BU7wYxZNic4lOeT0J5O7hc4EGDA1XuIouXFo6Pit3wKv3T2SpmHRb92pOdJKNZkKXp%2BtEPzozSQt%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR768kYHkYg

JPG

Interesting mix of various vintage parts. At $60 it is likely a reasonable purchase. Extra holes in fence???? Tilt likely repairable - tapped hole???

Restore

Oh thanks for pointing out the striped out threads, I could repair that with a Helicoil insert if it is worth the effort, Thinking I need to be patient and follow the suggestions here of waiting for a 10ER to become available that has the planer option unless something comes up on Ebay that really says buy me, shipping cost is the big deterint with these heavy parts.

Thanks to the great post & pics here as I can reference while assembling so that it is going together right the first time, BIG help!

I managed to rewire a new switch & power cable today, was hit with 30K volts as a kid soooo not crazy about wiering for some reason but when I flipped the switch no breakers tripped and the motor spins so calling that a win!

Followed one of the post here and added the ground to a motor mount bolt same as per the pics on the post but since it is not directly contacting bare metal how will that work?

jsburger

Scrape the paint off where the bolt attaches.

Restore

Sounds like the right solution but gonna be hard scratching up my new paint job

Looking for a Jointer today and I came across this 10 with 4E jointer, Speed Changer & tons of goodies for $75 :eek: reached out but it's sold.

Back to scouring the net, adding Freecycle.org to my search, maybe I get lucky

https://cosprings.craigslist.org/tls/d/colorado-springs-shopsmith-old-version/7661424517.html

chapmanruss

When I do my restorations, I replace the power cords and add the ground. As John said remove any paint in the contact area the ground wire is attached to.

Magna Model 620 4" Jointer Serial Number 23335 was made in November 1954. If you are close enough to pick it up, you could go for the Jointer you found. It doesn't show a shipping option. Do check if it has all the parts. This has the early Cutter Head so check that all the wedges and screws are there. The Knives are the same as current ones so if they are damaged replacements are easily found. The Jointer Fence has a simi circular part riveted to it that matches the groove in the Quadrant that if missing cannot be ordered separately from the Fence from Shopsmith. I don't see in the pictures the Adjusting Knob for the cut height. That would be the knob you see on the underside of the Jointer next to the arrow in the picture below.

I would, and actually have, replaced the Jointer Fence Tilt Quadrant as opposed to trying to "fix" it. My Model 4E Jointer I restored had a stripped Quadrant just like the one you found. The current Jointer Fence Tilt Quadrant part number 502651 which sells for $44.07 is the same as the ones in the original Jointers. The Jointer you found has a couple safety upgrades with the back of the fence Cutter Guard and the Drive Shaft Guard.

Russ

Model 620 underside arrow.jpg

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Chapmanruss,

Thanks for the detailed info for this jointer much appreciated and should help with understanding what to look for, unfortunately I didn't notice that 620 was pickup only as it is outside of an acceptable driving distance, were between DC & Baltimore.....Could you please verify that you said a model 620 will mount to the adapter I just bought in case I run across a good deal on a 620.

Okay I' am gonna sand off some of my shiny new paint to get a good ground but that spot is getting some dielectric grease cause rust has insomnia and never sleeps.

JPG

Use an external tooth lock washer between the lug and the frame.

chapmanruss

The Mounting Holes on the Model 620 Magna 4" Jointer are in the same place as the Model 4E Magna 4" Jointer as indicated by the arrows in the picture below.

I wish I had kept the Jointer in the picture above. It is serial number 11458 and the lowest Model 620 Jointer serial number I have seen. It was probably made in January 1954 which is before the introduction of the Mark 5 in March. It had been painted gray before I got it and likely to match being on a Model 10.

620 extra mounting holes - arrows.jpg

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Russ, Thank you once again.

What do you think about if I come across a good 620C and the only difference between a model 620 & 620C are those holes, I could add the holes myself if someone could give me measurements off a 620 they had? that would broaden my search even further, was thinking that the measurements would need to come off the reference machined surfaces not the rough casting surfaces to make them reasonably accurate….The full jointer adapter kit came in today and it looks in pretty good shape although it seems kinda expensive now after finding that complete machine with a jointer for $75.

JPG, I like the external tooth lock washer idea but gonna add the dielectric grease anyway because I have a new tube that will most likely outlast me.

Just for fun, pic I called Shopsmith laundry day 😉

JPG

Use them both.

chapmanruss

I like the Shopsmith laundry day. I have had a few of those myself.

You already have a guide for the distance between the holes needed to attach the Hinge Plate to the Jointer. It is the Hinge Plate itself. The Hinge Plate would have to be centered to either side of the Cutter Head protrusion on the Jointer Base/Outfeed Table casting. Even if you are a fraction of an inch off having it centered it really would not matter. I would have to check the distance of the hole center line above the bottom edge of the Jointer Base/Outfeed Table casting. From the picture you can see the holes are not that far above the bottom edge and probably no more than the diameter of the hole. I'll try to remember to check that when I go into the shop today.

Drilling your own mounting holes in the Jointer Base/Outfeed Table casting would allow you to use any Magna/Shopsmith Jointer made from the change to the Model 620-C to a current one. The only thing the Jointer cannot have is the Dust Collection Chute found on newer models and upgraded Jointers.

Now a word of caution: The ears on the Hinge Plate where it attaches to the Jointer can be broken off if not carefully handled. I do not recommend setting down the Jointer with the Hinge Plate attached to it and resting on the Hinge Plate. Although the Hinge Plate is a fairly strong casting the Jointer is heavy and accidently dropping it could damage it. I do not have my restored Model 4E Jointer attached to my Model 10ER all of the time but instead keep it on a stand I made for it. The Hinge Plate is attached and goes through a slot in the stand which you can see in the 1st picture below.

Below is my Model 4E Jointer and Model A-34 Jig Saw on the stands

Jointer and Jig Saw stands.jpg

Jointer and Jig Saw on stands.jpg

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JPG, Bought the star washers today & treated them to a dielectric grease bath before install, that should solve the grounding wire issue without sacrificing my new shinny paint, thanks for the suggestion.

Russ, I like the stand Idea for Jointer/Jigsaw storage but for now that will need to wait as I am out of space for now anyway, so was thinking about using your concept but for me building some type of storage under the SS table would be a better fit. Glad you mentioned the jointer mounting ears as I thought that jointer looked pretty darn heavy for those ears, oh and thanks to the pic I now know that taped hole on top of the jigsaw is for the lamp that I do not have yet.

If you get a chance to post the hole dimensions that would be great as even if I don’t use them for this project they will be there for future possibilities.

Currently I am waiting for Skip to send me new belts and pullies with the SPT diver option so I can make some chips, my wife has a standing order in for any bowls I can make her, I ordered a pulley with the SPT driver just in case he can find a new supplier for the SPT mount adapter he sells, sure hoping he can find one as that would give me a LOT more options.

I don’t want to jinx myself but you didn’t hear it from me that my Chiropractor bought his Grandfathers home and you have seen all the classic car Barn finds lately….well in the over stuffed barn he thinks there is an SS in there and I don’t mean SS Chevelle…Wish me luck as I would love to put together from any sources a complete fully optioned original machine, in Midnight Blue Satin of course ;->

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Restoring this classic machine has been a fun & satisfying project that is almost complete, that headstock was really the only part that intimidated me a bit but with all the support from this board I got through it and feel the machine will be rock solid for many years of projects.

Noticing spare/extra parts starting to pile up and kind of thinking about a second machine to restore that I can leave setup for particular operations at some point when I have a dedicated shop….soooo is this how the SS addiction begins?

The last part to restore is the jigsaw, so far it looks like it’s in pretty good shape except for the casting at the end of the hold down guide, it is full of fractures and just disintegrating, is this a common problem and is there a source to get a replacement?

Question: Installing the Speed changer handle with new springs & nuts today but noticed some SS literature shows the handle installed on left and right of the ears, which is correct/better? The left side would give more space between it and the headstock lock but on the right would put it closer to the centerline of rotation on the ways.

jsburger

Russ will correct me if I am wrong but, as I remember it was originally on the right in the older literature and at some point Magna changed it to the left. As you say it give more clearance with the lock handle that way and is probably why Magna changed it. I have all of mine on the left.

chapmanruss

John is correct and having the crank outboard from the Headstock provides more clearance from the Headstock Lock.

I have a Jig Saw Hold Down Support Assembly that looks very similar and "crumbling" like yours. Jig Saw parts have to be found used. They are out there from time to time, so you need to have patience.

The holes for the Jointer to attach the Hinge Plate to are 5-1/2" between the center line of the holes, 3/16" from the bottom to the center line of the holes and are 9/32" in diameter for the 1/4" bolts. I would use the Hinge Plate as a guide for the distance between the holes when marking them for drilling.

As I mentioned in my previous post the Hinge Plate can be broken. Below is an example from the Hinge Plate I got with my recent purchase of a Model 10ER with the complete Jointer setup. Unfortunately this Hinge Plate is not usable. The fracture is completely through on the one and almost through on the other.

Hinge Plate.jpg

jsburger

Russ,

"Unfortunately this Hinge Plate is not usable. The fracture is completely through on the one and almost through on the other."

Cast iron can be brazed. If done properly the repair will be as strong if not stronger than the original. If you have all the pieces I would not discard it. As you know they are very rare. I would certainly have it fixed if it were me.

Restore

Russ, Thanks for the dimensions, I printed and saved with my SS manuals.

That's disappointing news that there is no replacement for the jigsaw hold down, guess that’s the game when dealing with antique machinery, thinking about trying some penetrating epoxy to stabilize the part for now till a replacement comes my way, it would probably work better if I had a vacuum chamber.

Restore

Is this the correct jointer belt replacement, FHP 4L330 33' x .50' ? it is the same style Skip sold me for my drive belts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ELACWM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

chapmanruss

Don't worry John, I do not plan on discarding it. Due to the way it attaches to the Jointer there is plenty of area available to repair it. I have a number of "broken" Shopsmith parts I have kept in the hopes of repairing them. They range from plastic to aluminum to cast iron.

For the Jointer the Belt I use is a 4L320 and the Jointer Pulley is an 1-3/4". The manuals simply list the Belt and Pulley without a size.

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