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Old shopsmith with a poorly replaced motor

edma194

Stick with your Goldie headstock. You'll want that access hole, and all the newer parts intended to work with that motor.

JPG

No bolts, pins and tinnerman clips.

chapmanruss

In October 1955 the change was made from the "A" Headstock to the "B" Headstock beginning with serial number 312508. Having the "B" Headstock from the Goldie will be an advantage with the access hole under the Logo Plate on the back of the Headstock among other reasons. You can always paint the Headstock Casting and Motor Pan silver to match the Greenie colors those two parts would have. The Belt Cover would be green. Your "A" Headstock also came with a High-Speed Lock which was discontinued on the "B" Headstock. For that reason, you will want to use the Speed Control Dial from the Goldie. That is one example of the changes that occurred between the time your Greenie "A" Headstock was made and the Goldie "B" Headstock you are looking at. There were many other improvements made to the Headstock during that time period. Yes, I did call them improvements which is why you would want to use the upgraded parts of the Goldie Headstock whenever possible. This is especially true if it has the Poly V Drive which most Goldie Headstocks had. You will notice the differences as you compare the two Headstocks.

joneill4

I'm 99% sure that I will simply swap the headstocks, add a bit of lube, check the power cord, and move on. That said, I do have a few questions. In a given decade, how many times will you guys pull the logo plate? The folks who are responding to this thread seem to be the most active members of this forum, so that may skew the frequency much higher than average. I'm guessing that 90%+ of Shopsmith owners have never removed it. Why do you pull it? I have seen videos where it is used to access the clip connecting the speed control to the sheave. Is that the only reason for the hole? How long does it take to remove the motor? It looks to my untrained eye that you would have access if the motor was out of your way. In 20 years, I bet less than 20 people have seen my Shopsmith, so I don't know why I care.

dusty

joneill4 wrote I'm 99% sure that I will simply swap the headstocks, add a bit of lube, check the power cord, and move on. That said, I do have a few questions. In a given decade, how many times will you guys pull the logo plate? The folks who are responding to this thread seem to be the most active members of this forum, so that may skew the frequency much higher than average. I'm guessing that 90%+ of Shopsmith owners have never removed it. Why do you pull it? I have seen videos where it is used to access the clip connecting the speed control to the sheave. Is that the only reason for the hole? How long does it take to remove the motor? It looks to my untrained eye that you would have access if the motor was out of your way. In 20 years, I bet less than 20 people have seen my Shopsmith, so I don't know why I care.

My first question was what percentage of Shopsmith owners have machines without the access hole.

I pull the logo plate about once every three to four months for a good clean out and lubrication. Understand that I believe you cannot over lub a Mark 5/V..

joneill4

Hey Dusty, this is actually pretty surprising to me. How often are you using it? If it happened to sit idle for 6 months, would you lube it while you were not using it?

br549

joneill4 wroteIn a given decade, how many times will you guys pull the logo plate?

Over the past 43 years (4 + decades), it would be hard to say. To perform the recommended lubrication after every ten hours of use, I removed the access cover numerous times during the first few years when I used it the most. Besides for lubrication and cleaning purposes, if I have to remove the motor when the centrifugal switch inside of the motor needs cleaning, I'll use the access hole to remove the power switch to make motor removal easier. It takes several more minutes to remove the motor than just the access cover, and not something I would enjoy doing just to lubricate the sheaves and blow out some dust. After having the button bearing fail on me, I now probably lube more often than every 10 hours, and I would guess once every 4 months or so. I can't imagine not having the access hole, even if it is relatively small for my medium size hands.

chapmanruss

Occasionally cleaning out dust/debris from inside the Headstock along with proper lubrication will keep your Mark 5 running in top condition. Removing the Belt Cover and opening the rear access hole allows for that cleaning and lubrication. On page 53 of the Mark V Model 500 Summary Manual PDF linked below, you will find the maintenance instructions. Page 53 is actually the 45th page as this Summary Manual does not contain all of the actual Manual's pages. Keeping the movable Sheaves of the Motor and Idler Pulleys lubricated (oiled) is essential to keeping the variable speed working. Clean and lubricated (dry lubricant) gears on the Speed Control Assembly are necessary too.

https://www.shopsmith.com/getting_started/500_Summary_Manual.pdf

The amount of use, length of time between maintenance and conditions under which the Shopsmith is used/stored are all factors on how often maintenance should be performed. If the Speed Dial is getting harder to turn, maintenance is probably overdue.

joneill4

The Goldie worked out just fine. The belts look new, and the quill looks like its been freshly waxed. I oiled the sheaves and dry lubed the parts of the speed control that I could get to. I was unable to remove the speed control knob. Assuming I am looking at the right thing, I cannot get an allen wrench to bite into the set screw. In one of the Sawdust Sessions vids, Nick's set screw was at about 12 o'clock. Mine (if I am actually looking at the set screw) is at about 2 o'clock. It's basically in-line with the quill lever. Am I looking in the wrong place?

joneill4

I am indeed looking in the wrong place. I just found a pic of the back side of the lever.

JPG

Look for the access notch.

chapmanruss

The picture below shows the back side of a Speed Control Handle. On the right side of the Handle you can see the notch to access the set screw. This is one set screw your 5/16" Allen Wrench aka the Shopsmith Toolbox does not fit.

On the Speed Control Assembly shown below the arrow indicates the dimple on the shaft where the set screw of the Speed Control Handle should seat.

Speed Control Handle - back.jpg

speed control - arrow.jpg

joneill4

"This is one set screw your 5/16" Allen Wrench aka the Shopsmith Toolbox does not fit."

That explains everything! Thanks Russ.

I noticed an interesting problem with my new headstock. I start my bowls by tracing around a 5 gallon bucket, so the bowls are pretty big. With the old, jury-rigged pulley, I had no trouble roughing in these big blanks. With the new headstock, the piece spins way too fast to start shaping. The whole machine literally leaves the ground on the slowest setting. Judging by the price, Shopsmith seems pretty proud of their speed reducer. I think I am going to go back to the Greenie to do the rough cutting on 4 or 5 bowls, then switch back to the Goldie for the higher speed work. Far from ideal, but at least it is doable.

edma194

Lowest speed will be around 700 RPM. Possibly the speed dial is off. I don't know if it's worth getting a tachometer for this but there are phone apps that do the job. I just tried a demo version of one that is really just an adjustable strobe light. Works as well as they used to on distributor ignitions.

I know someone who had a segmented bowl explode on his Shopsmith at slow speed. I got a PowerPro upgrade because I wanted to turn bowls. I also obtained a used Speed Reducer at a good price so I can make things rotate at ridiculously slow speeds in combination with the PowerPro.

rpd

Try balancing the rough blanks to minimize the bouncing.

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