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Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

mickyd

JPG40504 wroteSheesh! Anybody else put tablecloths on their worktables???:D

Those be "holey" towels.

JPG

mickyd wroteThose a "holey" towels.

That would explain the 'shroud'.

Speaking of which, it appears to me that one eye is watching you!

mickyd

JPG40504 wroteThat would explain the 'shroud'.

Speaking of which, it appears to me that one eye is watching you!

And the eye follows you as you walk around the room even!!

JPG

mickyd wroteAnd the eye follows you as you walk around the room even!!

I hope the board does NOT move while the eye follows you!

robinson46176

The shroud of Fir-in... ;)

mickyd

robinson46176 wroteThe shroud of Fir-in... ]

Fir-in....Tur-in.....good one!!

mickyd

One step closer to where I want to be. Primed and ready for finish coat. I used Rustoleum Ultra Cover 2x primer. I have NO idea why they market it as 2x. Says double the coverage. ????????? .

Burgundy or OEM bluish gray, burgundy or OEM bluish gray.....I'll have to make the final decision on the finish coat...............real soon.

The poll question at the top of this thread for color choice is close. If you haven't voted yet, go to post 216to see the colors then to the poll question at the top of any page.

Decided not to paint the speed changer (lower left in photo). Instead, I'll sand / polish / buff. Haven't started it that yet.

reible

After thinking about this for quite a long time I will now post what I like.

I've really like a few of the machines where there was some creative colors involved rather then the stock original. I've seen the original color on the one I got for my brother and well it is gray with a minor amount of blue, motor had more blue tones, but still gray. It looks OK and if this were going to be a show machine to be put in a museum then I go that way.

I personally think it would be more fun to go with a custom paint job. If you remember back in the 60's they had candy apple red with about 20 clear coats on top that looked at least a foot deep??? I painted a few things a lighter blue version which I'm now lost to remember the name of but that would be a really great look. It is hard to get right and the surface takes days to prep.... and if it gets damaged you want to cry. In this case this would be a step to far.

Which leads me to the present color of burgundy. When I look at the mock-up it is just to much of that color for my taste. When I checked one of my books on color coordination I did notice that a color scheme exists that makes use of a lighter gray and burgundy. If one could use the lighter gray and then make the highlights burgundy I think it might look pretty good. An example might be the headstock light gray and the pulley guard burgundy. The miter gauge and saw guard burgundy carriage light gray. Tie bar and base plate arm burgundy, head rest and base plate light gray. Legs light gray, support brackets burgundy. Motor plate light gray, motor burgundy.

Add chrome bolts for the support brackets and to mounts to the wood base. And if you have casters make them gloss black.

OK that's about it.

Ed

nuhobby

Although I already voted for burgundy, I'll explain a little more:

Having some gold-tone metallic handles and a Brass logo plate (this is done already, right?) is a big influence. I don't know if they work visually with grey alone. But I think they'll work with (warm tone) burgundy and any accent-color. I thought of cream-colored accents, and reible has mentioned a burgundy+grey scheme. I'm sure you'll work it out on Photoshop -- paying special attention to your brass/gold parts. Also paying attention to the unpainted speed-changer now...

robinson46176

This is my choice as the best looking color scheme I have used so far.

Restored Shopsmith 2.jpg

mickyd

reible wrote
After thinking about this for quite a long time......

Which leads me to the present color of burgundy. When I look at the mock-up it is just to much of that color for my taste. When I checked one of my books on color coordination I did notice that a color scheme exists that makes use of a lighter gray and burgundy. If one could use the lighter gray and then make the highlights burgundy I think it might look pretty good. An example might be the headstock light gray and the pulley guard burgundy. The miter gauge and saw guard burgundy carriage light gray. Tie bar and base plate arm burgundy, head rest and base plate light gray. Legs light gray, support brackets burgundy. Motor plate light gray, motor burgundy.

Add chrome bolts for the support brackets and to mounts to the wood base. And if you have casters make them gloss black.

OK that's about it.

Ed

I'll throw it out there for review....For comparison to solid burgundy version in post 216

heathicus

mickyd wroteI'll throw it out there for review....

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[ATTACH]6488[/ATTACH]

I like that a lot better than the straight burgundy! But maybe adjust which pieces are gray and which are burgundy. Sorry, I don't have any recommendations for specific adjustments to make.

Might I make another suggestion? It's one I made before, but I'd like to at least see a mock-up (I just haven't had time to make my own mock-up yet). But perhaps something along the lines of the gray & burgundy but using the "Greenie" green and silver scheme. Maybe just replace the burgundy in your mock up with the "Greenie" green color? But then, that might not coordinate with the brass badge and handles.

But then, as color challenged as I am, it might be a horrible idea.

mickyd

heathicus wroteI like that a lot better than the straight burgundy! But maybe adjust which pieces are gray and which are burgundy. Sorry, I don't have any recommendations for specific adjustments to make.

Might I make another suggestion? It's one I made before, but I'd like to at least see a mock-up (I just haven't had time to make my own mock-up yet). But perhaps something along the lines of the gray & burgundy but using the "Greenie" green and silver scheme. Maybe just replace the burgundy in your mock up with the "Greenie" green color? But then, that might not coordinate with the brass badge and handles.

But then, as color challenged as I am, it might be a horrible idea.

I'll give the Greenie colors a shot also. I am not totally locked into the brass badge or handles, even though I have many hours of my life into fine tuning the brass badge etching process...:p

JPG

mickyd wroteI'll throw it out there for review....For comparison to solid burgundy version in post 216

.

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[ATTACH]6488[/ATTACH]

FWIW, you reversed the colors of the motor and motor plate from Ed's suggestion.]what [/B]the final coat color is!:)

etc92guy

I don't think the light grey works with the burgundy. Try the cream. That might go better with the brass name plate.

And yes, I do dress myself...............:D

mickyd

JPG40504 wroteFWIW, you reversed the colors of the motor and motor plate from Ed's suggestion.]what [/B]the final coat color is!:)

Fixed. Thx

mickyd

etc92guy wrote
I don't think the light grey works with the burgundy. Try the cream. That might go better with the brass name plate.

And yes, I do dress myself...............😃

Burgundy and cream. Just not feeling these two tone ER's at all. It's too distracting.

Without additional suggestions, I'm going to continue to ponder my original single color schemes of OEM or burgundy in post 216.

beige a4.jpg

Len

Can't always jump in, but let me say that mono-chrome is probably best, just put a HIGH sheen on which ever you choose.

But let me ask, is that board a single piece of wood? Or is that all done with mirrors as well? Am struggling with what to choose. Even considered plywood!

mickyd

Len wroteCan't always jump in, but let me say that mono-chrome is probably best, just put a HIGH sheen on which ever you choose.

But let me ask, is that board a single piece of wood? Or is that all done with mirrors as well? Am struggling with what to choose. Even considered plywood!

The ER in the photo was does has a single bench board. It was restored by MKC Tools. Mine has the typical double boards.

robinson46176

mickyd wroteThe ER in the photo was does has a single bench board. It was restored by MKC Tools. Mine has the typical double boards.

When I build the new bench top for mine I plan to use thick slats with fairly wide (maybe about 3/4") gaps. It should hold a big item laid there but allow sawdust to fall through. I considered making the slats about 2" thick and 3" wide. A cleat running front to back underneath would tie them together to add stability too.

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