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Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

mickyd

JPG40504 wroteAnnnd what does that do for the conductivity???:rolleyes:

Makes the star washer more important!

Star washer is critical!! That's why I used the high quality Military Spec MS35333 version. They are more highly controlled for hardness than the commercial versions and have excellent ductility, not like those made off shore. I have a good source for high quality fasteners!!:D

My primary conductivity path will be headstock - stainless tooth washer -terminal ring - ground wire - earth. Can't rely on the threads for reasons stated previously. FYI....they do make anti-seize lubricants in each copper and nickel bases which have great conductivity BUT....both do not have good galvanic compatibility with cast iron. Always something....again.

mickyd

UPDATE 1-13-10 - I did not end out with the ground wire as shown in the post below. Instead, I mounted it between the access plate and the rear motor housing using the access plate screw to secure it. I'll post a photo later in this thread and hopefully remember to come back and update this one to tell you were it is.

Original post #415

Here's the method I used to attach the green jumper ground wire to the ER's motor. The other end will be secured up inside the headstock.

Notice that the green ground wire is longer than the black (hot) and white (return) wires. That's so that if the wires are inadvertently yanked, the ground wire would be the last to come disconnected.

Although the external pressure was relentless size=75😃 ,[/size] I didn't want to attach the ground wire to the outside of the motor for cosmetic reasons so instead, I attached it to the brown terminal plate mounting screw that threads into the inside of the back cover. I was going to (and probably should have) mount it to one the two access cover screws but the thickness of the terminal ring caused a slight gap between the cover and the mounting surface and I figured dust would get in. (and ya, ya dusty, your thinking "to get sawdust in, you gotta first make it!!"). Anyway, it's now mounted where it is and it will stay there until I have to service the motor in the future. I'll move it then. The disadvantage of mounting where I did is that should I have to remove the motor, I have to disconnect the motor wires at the switch first. No biggie since the headstock has the access hole under the ShopSmith nameplate and it's easy to get to the switch.

mickyd

The caster assembly on the rust bucket needed some serious attention. Life left outside, unconvered, is brutal for any machine.

Decided to use "Greenie I" with a lathe setup to sand the caster rods removing the heavy rust and pitting. This is the same setup used to clean up the way tubes.

Because the rod diameters are so small (1/2" and 3/8"), unless the ShopSmith's RPM's are BLAZING, the process goes too slow. I didn't trust using those higher RPM's although I did try it. Turning at a reasonable speed (drum sander speed setting range), the first rod I did took about 20 minutes using a sanding block with 36 grit paper. To get completely through the rust and pitting meant removing .006" from the OD's. (same amount of metal removal as when I did the way tubeswhich were equally rusty). Anyway, to speed the process up, I decided to use use my belt sander while the Greenie did the turning. To do that, naturally I had to go to the backside of the ShopSmith so that the rotation of the sander was going against that of the ShopSmith. The sander had a 50 grit belt on it and that reduced the sanding time to about 5 minutes. MUCH BETTER since I had 2 more to do. After my wife took the photo, she asked how come my hand was so white as compared to my arm. I then realized that for whatever reason, I had a DEATH GRIP on the belt sander handle. (wondered why my hand was getting tingly :eek: ). Guess I was prepared for some kind of incident.

Came out well.

The aluminum parts were cleaned off using an 8" brass wire wheel on the bench grinder along with detail work using a dremel tool with wire brushes. You can't see them but there are still a few areas that I just couldn't get to so they still have a bit of the original 'crud' that will serve to refresh the memories of what they looked like when I got it.

Notice I didn't mirror polishthe aluminum castings as I did with 'Greenie I'!! That was (is) a tough decision.

osx-addict

Mike -

Another museum quality machine when you're done!! Looks great!

etc92guy

Hmmmmm........I think the high standards are catching up with our top restorer. 11 coats on the planks but he leaves corrosion on the caster assembly.

Just doesn't seem right. :p

JPG

etc92guy wroteHmmmmm........I think the high standards are catching up with our top restorer. 11 coats on the planks but he leaves corrosion on the caster assembly.

Just doesn't seem right. :p

What corrosion????? Just because he did not Polish it?? Unpolished and corroded are not the same!:rolleyes: Those spots near the end are impossible to get at(dental picks not withstanding!).

mickyd

etc92guy wrote
Hmmmmm........I think the high standards are catching up with our top restorer. 11 coats on the planks but he leaves corrosion on the caster assembly.

Just doesn't seem right. :p

Oh you just had to do that to me didn't you. I was almost recovered!!!😃 And jpg's suggestion about the dental pic......I hadn't even thought of that!!! Guess I am NOT done with the caster assembly yet. Thanks for nothin' guys.:p

My father used to alway say "Driving by 60 mph you'll never see it!!" That just never registered for me.

judaspre1982

====================

mickyd

judaspre1982 wroteThose corners look like the Dremel tool fitted with a small brass cup brush would do the trick for the most part.------Dave

NG Dave. Tried it. It's too close and the handpiece gets in the way. I even used the flexible shaft which has a smaller diameter handpiece. It just can't get into the corners. What I need in felt polishing bobs .

Funny thing happened. I couldn't recall the name of those things. I thought they were called 'polishing knobs'. DON'T google 'polishing knobs' :o . And we wonder why the kids innocently get exposed to stuff on the internet!!! I can hear the questions now!!!:D

horologist

Mike,

If you can use a felt cone then there are wire brushes that will work with your Dremel. This will save you from having to polish the entire casting to match the corners cleaned with rouge and a felt cone.

Take a look at:

http://www.julesborel.com/tool/TC08page0064.htm

You might also look at scratch brushes.

JB is a great company but their web based catalog and search engine are awful. You might want to leaf through page by page as there are a lot of interesting tools here.

Troy

bluekayak

If it is the last inch of corrosion on the axle you are having trouble removing, this dowel steady rest should work.

Jerry Floren

St. Peter, MN

JPG

bluekayak wroteIf it is the last inch of corrosion on the axle you are having trouble removing, this dowel steady rest should work.

Pix Removed

Jerry Floren

St. Peter, MN

Easier to just flip end for end. He showed the un 'polished' end for comparison! The spots being discurred are those in the inside corners of the end casting.:) Ref: post 420

BTW HOW did you embed the pix???? Different from usual????!

bluekayak

JPG40504 wrote BTW HOW did you embed the pix???? Different from usual????!

I am on another forum where all pictures must be on an outside hosting service, such as PhotoBucket.com. I have been using that here. I just learned today that you can upload directly from your computer, but have not tried that yet.

Jerry Floren

St. Peter, MN

bluekayak

JPG40504 wrote The spots being discurred are those in the inside corners of the end casting.:) Ref: post 420

I don't know how I misssed that post; I must have been driving by at 60 mph.

Jerry Floren

carverken

I have not heard the driving at 60mph. But We have used" That car has a fifty foot paint job" for a long time. From 50 feet away it looks great. A little different twist but the same general meaning. ;)

JPG

carverken wroteI have not heard the driving at 60mph. But We have used" That car has a fifty foot paint job" for a long time. From 50 feet away it looks great. A little different twist but the same general meaning. ]

Thay yall luk gud on a ranny daie:D!(paint job on cars!)

mickyd

Heck of a time to finally realize this issue but when I was reassembling my ER's speed changer tonight, I realized that the 'floating' sheave is 'frozen' (wow now ain't THAT a big stinking surprise!!:p ). I first tried tapping in wooden wedges between the floating sheave and each of the outside sheave faces independently but the floating sheave wouldn't move.

Then I reluctantly decided that I would try to use my bearing puller. To do that, I wanted to first try to remove one of the outer sheaves so that I could pull directly on the floating sheave. I loosened the set screw that held the left sheave on and was able to slide that one off exposing the face of the [not]floating sheave. I attached the bearing puller.

Instantly having flashbacks to my puller incident where I broke the gauge collar, I VERY GENTLY turned the center post. Nothin', and I wasn't about to turn it any harder.

So, right now, the whole assembly is taking a bath in Evaporust. It will stay bathing until tomorrow morning.

Came back in the house and picked up the speed changer documentation (that I never read for content) and saw the dreaded step #4...."Never loosen special size set screws holding pulley sheaves. They are factory set and tightened." First, there was nothing so 'special' about them....5/16"-18 socket set cup point alloy. If they were 'special' at one time, they sure ain't 'special' now. Second, so much for that step!!!:eek: I have no options. It has to come apart to be cleaned. The only reason I can see for not removing them as instructed is so that their location relative both the end of the shaft and to each other are maintained. In looking at the shaft, I can see that they have been moved before because I can see several witness marks of the cup point impression in a couple places. If anyone knows any other reason not to remove them, let me know.

So, tomorrow, the bearing puller unless someone shouts out why not.

JPG

mickyd wroteHeck of a time to finally realize this issue but when I was reassembling my ER's speed changer tonight, I realized that the 'floating' sheave is 'frozen' (wow now ain't THAT a big stinking surprise!!:p ). I first tried tapping in wooden wedges between the floating sheave and each of the outside sheave faces independently but the floating sheave wouldn't move.

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[ATTACH]7134[/ATTACH]

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Then I reluctantly decided that I would try to use my bearing puller. To do that, I wanted to first try to remove one of the outer sheaves so that I could pull directly on the floating sheave. I loosened the set screw that held the left sheave on and was able to slide that one off exposing the face of the [not]floating sheave. I attached the bearing puller.

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[ATTACH]7133[/ATTACH]

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Instantly having flashbacks to my puller incident where I broke the gauge collar, I VERY GENTLY turned the center post. Nothin', and I wasn't about to turn it any harder.

So, right now, the whole assembly is taking a bath in Evaporust. It will stay bathing until tomorrow morning.

Came back in the house and picked up the speed changer documentation (that I never read for content) and saw the dreaded step #4...."Never loosen special size set screws holding pulley sheaves. The are factory set and tightened." First, there was nothing so 'special' about them....5/16"-18 socket set cup point alloy. If they were 'special' at one time, they sure ain't 'special' now. Second, so much for that step!!!:eek: I have no options. It has to come apart to be cleaned. The only reason I can see for not removing them as instructed is so that their location relative both the end of the shaft and to each other are maintained. In looking at the shaft, I can see that they have been moved before because I can see several witness marks of the cup point impression in a couple places. If anyone knows any other reason not to remove them, let me know.

So, tomorrow, the bearing puller unless someone shouts out why not.

Why are they soaking in 'evaporust'? I do not see any rust in the pix. "Kerosene" would work better!:D

BTW Are you trying to move the floating sheave, or punch a hole in the plywood???:rolleyes:

mickyd

JPG40504 wroteWhy are they soaking in 'evaporust'? I do not see any rust in the pix. "Kerosene" would work better!

BTW Are you trying to move the floating sheave, or punch a hole in the plywood???:rolleyes:

I had soaked it for a few hours in paint thinner per the speed changer documentation which did nothing. If you look closely at the shaft between the should-be-floating sheave and the right sheave, you'll see a combo of what appears to be red rust and a varnishy / shellacy material. Photo doesn't show it the best but I looked with higher magnification and I could see it. If Evaporust doesn't work, I am going to use 'karosyrup' since I can't find 'kerosene'. As you recall the gas station attendent directled me to it when I asked if they had 'kerosene'. :D Seriously, if Evaporust doesn't work, I'll just throw the thing away. (not). The beast has gotten me a tad frustrated over the past week of my vacation!!! No slam dunkers AT ALL.

Knowing the availability and the replacement cost of the speed changer, I opted to use the plywood backing block to minimize the 'maximuse forcous' that can be applied by the rotational transfer of energy on an inclined plane of a screw thread. :cool: In other words, I was scared to death to break something!!! I had tried using a metal backing plate first but the instant the pullers center rod contacted it, it was like pushing on a solid. As you know, with a bearing puller, if something is going to move, it will usually show some sign when applying just a small amount of torque, again due to the mechanical advantage of the screw thread.

So, one more cup of java, read up on new forum posts, and I go to see how Evaporust bath did. If that doesn't work, maybe I should try 'Kroil'. :mad:

SDSSmith

Remember Patience Grasshopper! Do not forget the oils, penetrating and such. I have had these frozen before, however, the machines they were on were not as "extreme" as yours.

As a side note, I know a guy in San Diego that has what's left of a speed changer the Post Office destroyed. It looks a lot like your floating sheave assembly, but the center hub slides nicely.

Go in peace and be one with the universe.....

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