For those following, you recall that when I purchased my ER 10, the guy said that it needed a motor. It wouldn't turn. When I popped it open, the thing was loaded with rust and the rear bearing was frozen solid into the housing. Evapo-rust broke the bond and the bearing itself was also frozen. The ER had to have sat outside in the drill press position and got filled up with water, probably a few times. If you recall what it looked like:
The windings didn't smell or look burned and the winding bench test with a multimeter found continuity at .003/.009 Ω and resistance at 5M Ω. Managed to clean it up (electrolysis on the back cover, 8" brass wire on grinder for the armature). The brass brush ended out taking the protective black oxide coating off the surface of the armature and it was now down to bare metal. This risked the possibly of rusting. Had no choice though. I couldn't get the rust off with anything less aggressive. JPG suggested waxing or going with a thin lacquer coating. I opted for the latter.
Replaced both bearings, and also the capacitor. $10 each for 2-Koyo 6203ZZC3 bearings, $9 for a Vangaurd BC-161 capacitor. (For the capacitor, the new microfarid range was 161-193 vs. the old one 153-190...close enough). Power cord was shot also so picked up a 15'-14GA 3 wire at Lowe's for $10. Total investment ~$40.
Reassembled the motor, plugged it in, hit the powers switch and :eek:
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[font=Impact][font=Comic Sans MS]SWEET. . . . . . . AGAIN!![/font] [/font]
[font=Impact][font=Arial].[/font][/font]
[font=Impact][font=Arial](and yes, this motor is running in the pic)[/font][/font]
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Now it's worthy of a fresh coat of paint.....and NOT orange!!
