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Restoration of Mark V / produced on 11/84

GetterDone

Yeah for sure. :)

I bought a gallon jug that is really helped with the reuse of the Evapo-Rust.

GetterDone

This evening, I learned alot about Quill Washers. 😃

This info to be asked about and shared later. :rolleyes: 😉

Here's some progress pictures.

The First Quill spring was easy.

This one (Someone has been messing with. :eek:

It is tightly coiled on the outer Diameter.

So I knew better that to try to extract it from its Home. 😉

These are going in a Evapo-rust bath.

I turned down a piece of Bronze to press the spring back in the housing.

Before press Picture.

After press picture

I had some Matte Deep Gray and its a No go.

This is another gray I had for my Milling machine.

This is what the color I am going to paint it.

GetterDone

A little more Progress.

I bought 2 Sticks of PVC .

I got this idea from 2 members of this group. 😃

I cut them to leave a few inches for liquid for Evapo Rust.

I run with the ball with this idea.

I made 4 Tubes for keeping up with the Order of Stuff. :rolleyes:

I used another members idea about pulling this out of the tube. :cool:

Thanks /You know who this idea came from. 🙂

GetterDone

First tube reveal after Evapo-Rust since yesterday . 😃

This is lower Support (back) tube.

Almost looks like New. 🙂

tube.4.jpg

End of tube picture.

tube.5.jpg

Okay now I will start the Next lower tube.

Front support tube ( before ) pictures.

It just got drop in the juice tonight. :cool:

tube.6.jpg

Bottom side of tube. (Before)

tube.7.jpg

Inside of worst end of this tube (Before) Picture.

I think I will let this one soak for 2 Days. 🙂

tube.8.jpg

GetterDone

A little more Progress.

Cleaned this shaft and prepped for Blacken-ing

And some late night shots of the 2nd Clean tube. 🙂

This is the End that was (So) real Rusty. :eek: and now 🙂

Now this is a before of the 3rd Tube in line for a bath. 🙂

This one is not bad / Especially after seeing what Evapo /Can Do For You. 😃

Before and I will let that soak overnight. 🙂

Then update soon.

I think these spot will be okay. :cool:

chapmanruss

Sorry, I'm kind of slow on this comment.

I use Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray paint for my Model 10E and 10ER restorations. I find it close to the original paint color used on them. For me it is a little too glossy for the Model 10's, so I use a Rust-oleum Matte Clear Coat. I haven't used the Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray on a Mark V or any STP so far. For the one Gray Mark V (1982) I restored I used the Shopsmith Gray and have also used it for touch-ups. Painting an entire gray Mark V, it should look close to original for the color.

It looks like you are coming along very well in your restoration. I will enjoy seeing it when finished.

GetterDone

chapmanruss wrote Sorry, I'm kind of slow on this comment.

I use Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray paint for my Model 10E and 10ER restorations. I find it close to the original paint color used on them. For me it is a little too glossy for the Model 10's, so I use a Rust-oleum Matte Clear Coat. I haven't used the Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray on a Mark V or any STP so far. For the one Gray Mark V (1982) I restored I used the Shopsmith Gray and have also used it for touch-ups. Painting an entire gray Mark V, it should look close to original for the color.

It looks like you are coming along very well in your restoration. I will enjoy seeing it when finished.

Thanks for the encouragement.

I had this paint on hand to paint a Bridgeport machine I am retrofitting.

I may use your idea about the matte clear coat.

It does have a shine.

GetterDone

A little more progress.

I Re-Blackened this side of the shaft.

I am using a paint filter to filter the Evapo-Rust before being poured into the next tube.

This is the only spots that didn't clean up with Tube Bath. 🙁

I worked them with a fine Stone and got it smooth and it's in for another Bath. 🙂

I got these little baskets off Amo zon to use for small parts.

These are the Quill related washers.

Which I will ask questions about later. 😃

This is the Gallon jug I bought for Evapo-rust baths.

It has really been working with this project so far.

This is the front way tube (before) picture .

The evapo-rust is doing a Great job at cleaning the inside up as well.

This is a Before picture of the worst of the rust on this Front way tube

AllenH

For small parts, I just used zip ties reversed so I could easily remove them and put them in the rust remover. Then I just grabbed the end of the zip tie to pull them out.

GetterDone

AllenH wrote For small parts, I just used zip ties reversed so I could easily remove them and put them in the rust remover. Then I just grabbed the end of the zip tie to pull them out.

Great Idea. :cool:

I will use that. :D

GetterDone

A little more progress.

I machined a Block to mount this to /so I could straighten the arms.

I used my mill/drill as the press.

Front/top way tube out of the Bath.

stihlsawer

GetterDone wrote
chapmanruss wrote Sorry, I'm kind of slow on this comment.

I use Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray paint for my Model 10E and 10ER restorations. I find it close to the original paint color used on them. For me it is a little too glossy for the Model 10's, so I use a Rust-oleum Matte Clear Coat. I haven't used the Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray on a Mark V or any STP so far. For the one Gray Mark V (1982) I restored I used the Shopsmith Gray and have also used it for touch-ups. Painting an entire gray Mark V, it should look close to original for the color.

It looks like you are coming along very well in your restoration. I will enjoy seeing it when finished.
Thanks for the encouragement.

I had this paint on hand to paint a Bridgeport machine I am retrofitting.

I may use your idea about the matte clear coat.

It does have a shine.

Looking great! Russ told me that you used the charcoal gray and told me about your restoration. I sprayed my legs earlier today with charcoal gray and think it looks pretty good IMHO.

chapmanruss

A good example of how we all learn from each other. :)

GetterDone

stihlsawer wrote
GetterDone wrote
chapmanruss wrote Sorry, I'm kind of slow on this comment.

I use Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray paint for my Model 10E and 10ER restorations. I find it close to the original paint color used on them. For me it is a little too glossy for the Model 10's, so I use a Rust-oleum Matte Clear Coat. I haven't used the Rust-oleum Charcoal Gray on a Mark V or any STP so far. For the one Gray Mark V (1982) I restored I used the Shopsmith Gray and have also used it for touch-ups. Painting an entire gray Mark V, it should look close to original for the color.

It looks like you are coming along very well in your restoration. I will enjoy seeing it when finished.
Thanks for the encouragement.

I had this paint on hand to paint a Bridgeport machine I am retrofitting.

I may use your idea about the matte clear coat.

It does have a shine.
Looking great! Russ told me that you used the charcoal gray and told me about your restoration. I sprayed my legs earlier today with charcoal gray and think it looks pretty good IMHO.

It's good to have other positive opinions. :)

GetterDone

chapmanruss wrote A good example of how we all learn from each other. :)

I have gained at least 5 Great ideas from this Forum that have helped me this this 1st Restoration.

I hope to share my idea's/ Progress that I can give back to the forum.

GetterDone

Tonight's progress.

Time is changing and some of the pictures are poor quality.

This is a before picture of when I hand honed this bore with a 800 grit Silicon carbide Hone that is pictured below.

After Picture .

I was impressed that It did not take much, if any material.

It just smoothed the surface up.

Before picture of this bore.

Then this is an after picture.

I used the Vice Grips to drive this hone thru the bore smoothly. :cool:

And now Preassembly of Headstock.

I Have A Question??? 😃 😃 😃

What putty to use to fill these 3 Set Screws back in with?

chapmanruss

Since you have to remove or a least back out the Set Screw to remove the Quill for maintenance don't bother refilling that one with putty ever. It should not have been done by the factory originally. As for the Quill Return Spring and Collar lock set screws, they don't need removing nearly as often, if at all, but just in case why bother filling them up with something that most likely will need to be removed sometime in the future. Refilling those set screw holes with putty is one thing I do not replace to make it as it came from the factory in my restorations. Just my two cents worth.

DLB

chapmanruss wrote Refilling those set screw holes with putty is one thing I do not replace to make it as it came from the factory in my restorations. Just my two cents worth.

Me too, so that's four cents. Especially the quill guide setscrew, which I back out regularly to wax the quill and bore.

- David

GetterDone

chapmanruss wrote Since you have to remove or a least back out the Set Screw to remove the Quill for maintenance don't bother refilling that one with putty ever. It should not have been done by the factory originally. As for the Quill Return Spring and Collar lock set screws, they don't need removing nearly as often, if at all, but just in case why bother filling them up with something that most likely will need to be removed sometime in the future. Refilling those set screw holes with putty is one thing I do not replace to make it as it came from the factory in my restorations. Just my two cents worth.

Thank You.

I value your opinion. :cool: :)

I was thinking along the same lines. :D

This putty was (To keep the not so Knowledgeable person from making a mistake) installed at the factory for people that are not aware. ;)

GetterDone

DLB wrote
chapmanruss wrote Refilling those set screw holes with putty is one thing I do not replace to make it as it came from the factory in my restorations. Just my two cents worth.
Me too, so that's four cents. Especially the quill guide setscrew, which I back out regularly to wax the quill and bore.

- David

This is Definitely worth 4 cents.

I was thinking of how to keep the Teeth of the Quill clean. ;)

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