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Saw Blade Maintenance

dusty

I thought that I kept my table saw blades in pretty good condition. But sharp is not what I am talking about. When they get dull, I know it because the cuts are no longer clean and crisp.

But this past week I was looking at the Forrest web site and noticed some photographs of clean/sharp blades and some that were not so sharp. I decided to look at mine under a magnifying glass.

I was surprised to see how cruddy they really were. Wish I could have gotten a good clear photograph to post. But what my blades look like have nothing to do with yours.

I would challenge you to get a magnifying glass and in real good light inspect your saw blades. You too might be surprised.

Gene Howe

I've seen similar photos. I've fleetingly considered looking closely at my cutting tools. Then I discard the notion because I guess I just don't want to know. :D

When the normal indicators of wear appear, They are cleaned/replaced/sharpened. Being the worry wart that I am, I don't need the added emotional stress caused by close inspection of my 10 year old rip blade:eek:

dusty

Gene Howe wroteI've seen similar photos. I've fleetingly considered looking closely at my cutting tools. Then I discard the notion because I guess I just don't want to know. :D

When the normal indicators of wear appear, They are cleaned/replaced/sharpened. Being the worry wart that I am, I don't need the added emotional stress caused by close inspection of my 10 year old rip blade:eek:

I was pleased to find not evidence of abuse other than some tar and resin that should have been cleaned off. I found no chipped carbide and no evidence of cracks where the carbide joints the steel.

What I guess I learned was that I don't clean the blades either as often as I should or as well as I should.

tdubnik

dusty wroteWhat I guess I learned was that I don't clean the blades either as often as I should or as well as I should.

I must confess that I am also guilty of this. I do clean my blades on occasion but not until I notice a deterioration in my cut quality.

beeg

dusty wroteBut this past week I was looking at the Forrest web site and noticed some photographs of clean/sharp blades and some that were not so sharp.

Dusty, can you provide a link to what ya were looking at. I can't seem to find the pics.

Gene Howe

tdubnik wroteI must confess that I am also guilty of this. I do clean my blades on occasion but not until I notice a deterioration in my cut quality.

I clean when I change to a different blade.

I use 409 and a tooth brush and/or a brass bristled brush.

Same with router bits.

What do others use?

pennview

As long as I can remember, I've been using Westley's Bleche Wite tire cleaner. I lay down newspaper, use a block of wood to elevate the blade, spray both sides of the blade using pump bottle, let it set for a few minutes, then wipe with paper towel. Only if I really cook some resin or pitch on the blade do I have to resort to use of small brass or stiff bristle brush.

8iowa

Shopsmith sold, or perhaps still sells, a blade cleaner that comes in an aerosol can. All I can say is WOW, you had better do this outside. The stuff is really powerful, and the fumes are certainly not fit to breathe.

I haven't yet sent any blades to Shupert & Son in Dayton for sharpening, but this was Nick's recomendation.

beeg

To clean blades I use cheap oven cleaner. But WATCH OUT for the fumes. :eek:

pennview

Many oven cleaners contain lye (sodium hydroxide) which is extremely corrosive, so one needs to exercise care with that stuff -- gloves, eye protection, etc. If you use it, be aware that Freud recommends against using oven cleaners as they can attack the binders in the carbide and also the brazing that holds the carbide in place.

Gene Howe

beeg wroteTo clean blades I use cheap oven cleaner. But WATCH OUT for the fumes. :eek:

I used to use oven cleaner 'til someone somewhere claimed it would break down the carbide and/or the brazing. I believe everything I read on the 'net.:eek:

409 is cheaper, I think. Wife buys it, I steal it from her cupboards. Shhhh...:D

robinson46176

I generally use the cheap Walmart carburetor cleaner.

.

berry

I use Empire's Blade Saver, which I get from Woodcraft.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004948/21115/BladeSaver--Saw-Blade-and-Router-Bit-Cleaner-16-Ounce.aspx?refcode=05INFROO

I know it's spendy but it works really well and you only need a few sprits of the stuff on the blade for it to work. I clean the blade in a tupperware pie container and a 3M abrasive pad. No terrible smells either.

tdubnik

I usually use Simple Green or Oxi Clean. I just soak the blades for 30 to 60 minutes and then brush with a nylon brush. Gets rid of the gunk with no noxious fumes.

JPG

tdubnik wroteI usually use Simple Green or Oxi Clean. I just soak the blades for 30 to 60 minutes and then brush with a nylon brush. Gets rid of the gunk with no noxious fumes.

Wonder what citrusstrip would do!

jayhawk

I use a soy oil based saw blade cleaner that I bought at The Woodworking Show last year. It works very good and is safe but it will also remove the painted logos on the blades. I bought a plastic covered cupcake holder and let my blades soak overnight. The crud comes off easily with an old toothbrush.

charlese

High power cleaners? Not for me! I use dish soap from the kitchen in a plastic pan of water and an old tooth brush. The pan came from a food container. I believe Nick recommended this system. It works!

efmaron

I have always soaked my blades in ammonia and then scrub then with a tooth brush.

charlese

With dish soap - there is no need to protect your hands.

whit

I use Simple Green Ultimate to clean saw blades and router bits. It's formulated to clean without breaking down the material and was designed for cleaning aircraft. It is SUPER stuff. A bit expensive and you'll probably have to order it from Grainger or McMaster-Carr. It's also good for cleaning guns and oxidized paint.

Whit