Miters and Bevels

Anonymous

What is the best way to do beveled cuts on the Shopsmith? Tilting the table to at 45 seems awkward and dangerous so I figure I am doing something wrong. Maybe I should just put a finer blade on my miter saw.

wurlitzerwilly

OregonRookie wroteWhat is the best way to do beveled cuts on the Shopsmith? Tilting the table to at 45 seems awkward and dangerous so I figure I am doing something wrong. Maybe I should just put a finer blade on my miter saw.

I don't see a real problem tilting the table, after all it's the same effect on a separate table saw, except that you tilt the blade. As long as you keep your body parts well clear of the danger zone, even if you do experience serious kickback, the worst damage will be to the wall, not to you.

Use the rip fence as usual and a pushstick or even the pushing device that slides along the fence (sorry I forget its name).

army1ret

Wiser words were never spoken.

Also remember to take your time and double check EVERYTHING!

reible

OregonRookie wroteWhat is the best way to do beveled cuts on the Shopsmith? Tilting the table to at 45 seems awkward and dangerous so I figure I am doing something wrong. Maybe I should just put a finer blade on my miter saw.

I think the weakest part of the shopsmith system is the tilting table design. It works well on shorter lengths but you reach the limits in short order. (Picture frame sizes work well, that sort of size anyway.) I have no issues with rip cuts as long as you can support the work.

I have several compound miter box saws and will use them over the shopsmith for most cuts (within the limits of those saws). The cheapest upgrade to any saw is a really good blade.

If you need 4' x 4' piece of plywood with 45 deg beveled edges a clamping system with a circular saw or router is the way to go... or someones regular table saw. While yes it can be done on a shopsmith most people will not even try it because of how hard it would be to do.

Now I really love my shopsmiths but knowing the limits of a tool is also importain.

Ed

Ed in Tampa

The only reason to do a bevel cut instead of a mitre cut is when the wood is too wide to cut completely through on a mitre.

If you watch a craftsman they always try to make angle cuts using a mitre type cut rather than a bevel. Watch carpenters on a powered mitre saw they cut the wood standing up in a mitre rather bevel cut also.

A bevel cut has a tendency to ramp the blade no matter how it is done be it hand powered mitre box, powered mitre saw, a radial arm saw, tilting arbor table saw, or tilting table, table saw. Blade stablizers and I believe the massive saw arbor on SS help eliminate some of this. Always use a normal kerf blade as a narrow one will ramp even more.

Obviously there is a limitation on the SS since the table tilts down and if the wood is long enough it will hit the floor thus preventing you making the cut. I don't remember the exact length but I think it is over 5 ft.

Depending on the wood, how wide the piece to cut is and how thick the wood I sometimes do a 90 degree cut and then use my router and tapper bit to cut the exact bevel I want rather than chance having the blade ramp on me.

And I have the SS, a radial arm, a powered mitre and table saw available to me.

But as I have said before I can count on my hands the number of bevel cuts I have made in the last year or two.

Ed