Shopsmith Forums

That's got to be one of the improvements made to the 10ER, because the 10E doesn't have that feature. The MT is bored directly in the tailstock.

At this point, I don't know enough about turning to know if that's a problem or not.

Any other possible adjustments I'm missing?

Is there any way to adjust the alignment between the spindle and the tailstock on a 10E? When placing the point of a drive center on the spindle next to the point of a dead center in the tailstock, the spindle point is almost 1/8" low, and about 1/16 off to one side. The MT socket in the tailst...

Success! You guys ROCK! Moving the screw to the other side of the ears has solved the issue. I picked up a threaded stud and a couple of jamb nuts today at the hardware store, so now I'm just waiting on the belts. In the meantime I'm going to try to add a proper strain relief and revamp the ground w...

Excellent! I'll get a set ordered today

Will do, and thank you for the help!

On the subject of belts, do you prefer the standard belts or the cogged version? The belts provided with the speed changer are in fair shape and don't need replacement, but I might as well go ahead and do it while it's still pulled apart.

Just ran across this on the MKCtools.com site, 10ER Speed Changer Setup The first shot in that series shows the screw behind the ears, the same way mine is currently positioned. Subsequent shots of the speed changer mounted on the way tubes all show the screw in front of those ears. It's a tiny det...

How is that going to improve the 'situation'? A knob would have a diameter smaller than the current swing of the locking lever, which should provide the clearance I need. Hopefully putting the screw on the opposite side of the ears will provide the room I need. (Sorry for being so dense and not pic...

Cavediver, just remove the adjustment screw, and re-install it to the left of the ears. (Or, follow Heath's picture.) That is the real way to install the speedchanger. (Sorry JPG!) The other thing you can do, is to "index" the headstock lock, to be in another position. If you have 2 wedge...

Lol. Yeah... Since I received it in that condition, I'm considering it an OEM part :) That'll probably get replaced with either (purchased) original arms, or I may make some up from long carriage bolts and some turned wood knobs. It's not important to me either way since I'm only refurbishing this o...

I suppose so. Before I do that (assuming everything is correct and the handles still interfere with each other), I'm going to try replacing headstock lock lever with either a cap head screw or a threaded stud with a knob. I don't know if I'll be able to apply enough torque to lock things up or not, ...