Shopsmith Forums

Of course, you could just do tapers on the inside sides of the louvers and leave the outsides flat.

Why not just use garnet shellac?

As we like to say in Oregon, "I don't care HOW they do it in California!!"
We can be a pig headed lot at times!

Well, Ed, what I am partly basing my statement on is the the cabinet doors in my kitchen and partly on everything I have read in articles and books over the last 20-30 years or so. I have yet to see a door fail constructed this way.
Of course, you never know, do you?

You will not have any expansion/contraction problems with the plywood. You can glue a frame around it with impunity.(that is not a glue!)
Floating panels are only needed with solid wood panels.

Okey dokey, the speed reducer is on sale so I now have acquired one, I will prolly get it going in the next day or so and see what turns up!

I would like to turn a bowl that will be about 11 inches in diameter. In looking at some (way)back issues of Fine Woodworking I ran across an article on turning spalted wood, and they were using a ShopSmith lathe to turn a piece that looked like it was a good foot across.

How big a bowl have people turned on their SS without the speed reducer?
I realize that balancing beomes more critical as diameter increases, and I doubt that the maximum diameter the way tubes will allow is going to be safe. So just how big has anyone managed?

This is an approach that I read about numerous times, and just day before yesterday an old local turner told me I had better do this with the cherry stump I'm cutting up for bowl blanks. He said myrtle needed it too, and as I have recently turned a myrtle bowl from stock that I thought was seasoned ...

Another approach is to boil the rough turned bowl in water for a bit. This seems to soften the cell walls and allow them to come to equalibrium with one another.