Shopsmith Forums

benjamin wrote:Shopsmith's tilting table's weakness is with bevels on long stock?

Not really. if tou mean end bevels, then any tablesaw is going to be iffy at best. If you mean edge bevels, then the only real difficulty on the SS is providing outfeed support.

I think Bill M gave you the right advice. If you have a grooved top pulley you have a poly-V belt (the Gilmer or cogged belt is only found on old green or gold Mk V's). This is the upper belt, the wide one that runs from the idler shaft to the main (top) spindle.

Yeah, that's not good. Not only will it lead to premature belt wear, it will put abnormal strain on the bearings and shorten their life. You need to take the tension off by rotating the eccentric bushing, and then work the belt over to vertical.

This is covered well in Nick's video: http://www ...

Dusty, I can't find the SS extension brackets in their catalog. Do you have a part number?

The plate says it's a Mark 5. Are you still thinking it's a model 500?

Up until 1984, all Mk V's were "Model 500's" - but they didn't call them that, since it was the only model and it didn't need a number.

As I look at EBay I see a lot of reference to model ER and E. Is that something ...

Another option, which may or may not appeal to you, is just to replace the table, miter gauge and fence with used 500 parts, which are available very cheap (leftovers from upgrades).

Mind you, Ivan, replacing a worn-out speed control is a relatively easy and inexpensive repair. The bigger trouble signs would be shot bearings, a bad motor, or a bent spindle.

Ditto (having just put up a set of plywood bookshelves). In fact, in many case, it's faster to knock down the sheet with the skilsaw freehand, then cut to finished dimension on the tablesaw or SS (which does have the advantage of precise setup for identical lengths/widths.

I'm alternately amused ...

OMG! That is easily the equal of the Adm,iralty models in the Rogers Collection at Annapolis. Fabulous, marvellous work!

Mind you, a jointer is not a planer. Its role is in the first instance to square the *edge* of the workpiece- which will rarely be more than 4".

A jointer is also useful in flattening cupped or twisted stock- but any piece so bad that you can't do it in a couple of passes over a 4" probably should ...