Shopsmith Forums

Assuming the 'knurled' collar is attached correctly, the drill chuck is NOT. The set screws should line up. Also potential play is reduced by rocking the item being attached as the set screw is tightened. This centers the set screw at the low point of the shaft flat.

Good Luck finding a youngster interested in that path.

I be guilty of overlooking that obvious detail! ;>{

The shims are placed against the SIDES of the tubes. The tube clamp exerts outward pressure to the tubes. The final position is determined by a small boss extending out from the outer interior surface of the end casting. The shims essentially make that boss longer. The shims are necessary since his ...

CAREFULLY pry around the outer edge at multiple locations a smidgen at a time. You may need to simultaneously pry diametrically opposed to prevent cocking.

You already have 1 7/8" bench tubes. You need 1 3/4" tubes(only size currently available from the mother ship). You WILL need shims to ensure the correct c-c spacing. The bench tubes press against a boss in the end castings that is shorter on your castings than the current version.

Jigsaw = 5" (Pinless) IIRC? Pins are easily removed from coping saw blades.

Shaper router cutters are attached to the quill shaft.

I presume you have either a greenie or an early goldie. ONLY the bench tubes need to be replaced and 1/16" shims to provide correct c-c spacing.. Your tubes are 1 7/8 od.

I would say the SS9405 indicates an early SS Inc. product made prior to the switch to date 'serial numbering'.

Note the crinkle paint.

The two version shown above are interchangeable for mark 5/V/7.

Mark VII may require the first one.